Well I have nothing better to do so here is what I did...
To make the manifold you will need
1 2" long 3/4" male/male brass fitting
1 3" long 3/4 brass male/male fitting
1 3/4" bras female/female ball valve
1 3/4" brass female/female/female T
Screw the 3" fitting into the bilge hole, screw the ball vale on top of that, the 2" fitting on the ball valve, and then top if off with the T. Screw both your pumps into your T and your intake is complete
Next you will need to run your tubing. If I were to do it again I would buy 100ft. of 3/4" braided ID tubing from the internet. It is MUCH cheaper then in the stores and its much easier to work with then the irrigation tubing that I bought. You can find all the appropriate plastic fittings, hose clamps, etc... at your local hardware store.
For both filling and draining I used 800gph Tsunami pumps from www.wakeside.com
they were very inexpensive at only $25 each. I would have gone with 1200gph pumps, however, with the inlet only being 3/4" the larger pumps would have been a waste. I put the drain pumps under the rear seat and tucked them into the corners so they are pretty much out of the way and out of sight. In the future I may be switching to simer pumps for emptying because the aerator ones loose their prime when the sack gets 3/4 of the way empty.
I wanted to be able to remove the sacks when I wasn't using them so I opted to buy connections that would allow me to be able to unscrew the sacks from the tubing. I did this for a few reasons, but mainly so that they aren't just sitting on the floor all day long, and so I can clean them out.
The next thing I did was install 4 thru-hull fittings with 2 on each side of the boat, near the transom. I purchased these fitting from www.gijoes.com
and they are actually plastic painted chrome. They are chip/peel resistant and look really great for a low price. Two of the thru-hulls are for draining and the other two are for the overflow/vent lines.
For the switches, I purchased them locally for less then $10. They are nothing fancy, but they get the job done. If I would have had any more room/unused switches on the dash I would have used them but I wasn't that lucky. I ended up mounting two rocker style switches "on-off-on" on the port side of the drivers console about a foot in front and below of the throttle. Wiring them up was super easy, I just grounded them to the distribution block and spliced into another line under the dash for the power.