Coolest and most efficient AMP

What do you think is the coolest running AMP wired 2 ohms at 600+ watts?

With the least draw-- (efficient)??

Looking for Class D and also Class A/B 2 or 4 channel amp opinions Hope I do not start a war

Good question?

Question is who out there has tested enough diffrent amps to give your a accuratte answer.

Some people say the Tri path amps are some of the most efficiant amps, some people say digital amps, ect the argument go's on and on.
Lots of the new amps have the CES power specs right there on the box. That will tell show you how to size up diffrent amp's against each other.

I think a better way of finding out the information your looking for is to say what speaker comonation your looking to push and its application and someone out there might have a good suguestion on what amp combo works best for you.
Good luck

Grant,
This discussion has been ongoing with my buddies and now I want to ask everyone here. Each day/week/month something better comes out. It is an opinionated subject matter. You have a great idea on using a speaker combo to get opinions, so here goes:

1) Sub AMP opinions and wiring on:
2 12 inch subs in two separate sealed boxes getting sub woofer input from HU's rca sub output. Use KICKER 12 inch CVR's 4 ohm single voice coil for speakers.

2) Front and Rear AMP and wiring opinions on:
4 8 inch coaxials (2 in rear and 2 in front of boat). Use Pioneer 8 inch 4 ohm coaxials for speakers (TS MR2040). Assume 2 channel input.

3) Tower AMP and wiring opinions on:
4 6.5 inch components. Use Polk 6.5 inch 4 ohm components for speakers MMC6500's

Any experience in using 5 channel amps appreciated for combining either the boat or tower speakers with the subs to eliminate that extra amp box/wiring.

5 channel would be cool, for the simplicity, but doubt you find one with the power needed for a boat system. For a boat, estimate the power you think will be cool, then double it (especially for subs). I've never had too much power on my boat.

Opinions on Kickers ZX700.5 ??

85 watts x 4 at 2 ohm and a 420 watt at 2 ohm class d amp

i run a 5 channel in my boat and it works awesome

its an eclipse 5 channel dunno model off the top my head. it powers 4 kappa 63.5s(the kappas with tweeter and super tweeter) and a 10 in eclipse sub

My boat has 2 Avionixx 4 channel tripath amps and one HiFonics class D sub amp. The tripath amps are pushing 400 x 2 to the tower and 200 x 2 + 125 x 2 to the boat. The class D is pushing 500 x 2. So I am pushing a total about 2500 rated output watts. My battery bank consists of two 220AH golf cart batteries. Running the stereo at loud levels pulls the batteries from 12.6v down to 12.2v in two hours. This usage represents about 50% of the batteries capacity. So, 220 AH X 50% X 12.4 volts = 1364 VA-hours or 1364 watt-hours of consumption. So the average demand of my stereo system is 682 watts at nearly full volume (55 amps at 12.4 volts). I chose this with the desire to have a decent system that would operate well within the boundaries of my factory 100 amp alternator. The amplifiers and speakers were chosen with efficiency in mind. So far I have been quite pleased with the performance. Be aware these tripath amps do have a few quirks like making funny noises at certain temperatures while playing at low volume levels. A tripath amp is really a class D amp with a chip added to clean up the distortion. Find out more here: www.tripathpower.com, it's interesting technology.

The amplifier uses input power to create movement at the speaker cones and heat, so more efficient amps will produce less heat. Even these amps get warm, they still need to mounted with the cooling fins facing up.

If you want a kick a$$ five channel check out the Memphis Belle Marine. I think it is 75x4 and 600 on the 5th channel when run at 1 ohnm. If that is not enough power look at the regular memphis belle it runs either 1000 or 1100 on the sub channel at 1 ohm. I run the power reference 1000 watt Class D for 2 kicker Solo Baric L5 10". And Pwer Reference for the cabin and a seperate for the tower. I have never had cooling problems.


www.memphiscaraudio.com

I do not work or am I affiliated with Memphis. I am a happy customer just adding my 2 cents worth

Phall

I push my jl 500/1's really hard during the hot summers and they have held up extremly well(they get warm but don't overheat). Both are seeing 2 ohm loads. I don't know how much difference it makes on JL amps due to the fact they produce similar output from (1.5 ohms to 4). My cheaper audiobahn amp (seeing 2ohm) gets very hot in the summer and has overheated and gone into protection mode. Granted both brands of amps are not in their optimal cooling positions. Thru experience, you get what you pay for IMO the higher end amps are using better components resulting in better effeciency among other things ( I dont' think the added SQ benfits do much good in a boat system). Now days with a little due dillegence one can find high end audio equipment for substantially less than retail.

Anyone have the Kicker ZX700.5 ?

If yes, what are you running off it?

I love my ARC Foose setup with the fans... never cut out once all summer, and it is hot in Sac!

the coolest amps...

@ over $2k retail it should be cool.

Mike,

What subs are you using?

Everyone else?? <--what subs are you using?

I'll bet no one has McIntosh in their boats.

If you do, I want to see pics of the system, because it would probably thump.

What about the Alpine PDX? From my understanding they are smaller and use less power and stay very cool. I am thinking about these for my new boat, anyone running them to confirm?

i think what you are asking is what is a relaible amp... please feel free to correct me if i am wrong...

-class t amps are the coolest running "full range". they are basically a class d amp with circut switching to run full range.

-class d are the coolest running sub amps. they are good from 5hz to 500hz...

there are some very reliable class a/b amps that are no worry about over heating.. if a amp is over heating, then it is a poor design or improperly set-up (or both).. zapco reference series or arc audio vx series...though they are class a/b they are rock solid reliable...

class t is new to the car audio scene... arc audio had some models last year and discontinued them this year... the Avionixx mikeski mentioned have some quirks and have reliable issues (they work out of the box or dont as a local dealer informs me)... the zapco ck series class t are reliable and high powered and high priced..

2 amp system is not a bad combination...a 4 channel for the fronts (zapco 360.4 or jl 300/4 both are reliable and very good for the cabin speakers and a class d on the subs - mmats or jl slash series will do...the new alpine pdx series looks promising...

subs.. couple different options... if 1 sub then a high excursion design, if you have room for 2 then a traditional design....each one has a a pro/con... the high excursion desgins require high quality high powered amps.. they have deeper reach but lose detail, speed, and dont intergate the midbass well...

traditional subs generally require less power (more efficent), smaller enclosures, intergrate better in the midbass, more detail, but lose air volume and the very bottom...

depending on who you ask... 2 high quality traditional subs will match 1 high quality high excursion subs.. it will just depend on your setup and taste.

sub selection.. image dynamics,treo, alumapro,arc, tc sounds (inventor of high excursion, they do alot of consulting work for everyone metioned including and including jl and sunfire)

(Message edited by clubmyke on October 04, 2006)

Custom Car Stereo In Houston Put 3 McIntosh amps in a Centurion a few years ago with JL W7. They had it hitting so hard the cd would skip every time it hit. I don't have pics but I saw it first hand it was insane.

Custom Car Stereo sells alot (relatively speaking) of McIntosh amps.

Preston are you talking about the big 28 foot Centurion?

If I remember correctly it was a 21' maybe a 23'. I remember it being red. It was before stereos got really insane in boats like maybe back in Spring '01. I used to take my trucks to them but I stopped because I have a friend that does my install for free and is a certified installer. I think if I had a ton of money to blow I would go there. They do great work but they are pricey. What really pissed me off was that they take you to the cleaners on minor installs. I wanted them to but a parrot bluetooth in my chevy Silverado and they wanted 200 bucks when all it needed weas a 20$ harness. So until I need custom work I am staying away from there.

Agreed, very pricey (charge $120 to (basic)install an amp) and the work is so, so in boats from what I've seen. The cars they do are a different story. I still have a buddy over there that's been installing for them for about 2 years now.

I my experience I have found that if the install will be cool, or something that they can get recognition for then you are their best customer. For instance I put am IVA-C800, NAV, SUB, Components amps K40 Radar in an extended Cap Silverado (2000). The DVD Was custom in the console. Looked great. They did a great job (well I though). The DVD was perfect becasue it was custom. Well I sold the truck a year ago and had all the stuff taken out. My buddy did it for free. He started showing me all the places that they cut corners. For instnace all the wire was rununder the door as opposed to taking the seats and carpet out running all new wire under the carpet. All the connections for crimped and taped not sodered and heat shrinked. I know those are small things but they charged me 1200 for the NAV and IVA-C800 install. So I naturally thought I was getting what I paid for. I think not. Great custom work horrible regular install. Now in their defense I have not been back in about 3 years so they could have changed their basic install MO. I know one thing if I have to take my car to a shop it will be them I will just make sure they do the work like I want it and not expect anything from them

Use the Macintosh with a set of these Klipsch La Scala's on your tower and you are good to go. I know the La Scala's would snap most towers with their sheer weight.