Y2K MasterCraft Trailer almost self destructed

Just got a voicemail from Bill Gattus (sp) down at MC HQ and once again I am left out in the cold by MC.

Hit a bump a couple days ago and heard some metal come off the trailer. Found the following:


MC 2000 Single Axle Trailer.



There had been a recall on the mono-leaf springs for trailer years 1999-2000 but I basically got told to pound sand on the multi-leaves.

Trailer has never been salted, the rust you see is just surface rust. Not that the rust was mentioned at all or a cause for denial of MC, just some background info.

So something to consider especially if you plan on being a 2nd owner of an MC. You will be left out to rot on any issues that come up.

I think that MC builds a really decent product, and all products have issues that pop up, they just don't support it worth a damn.

My issues:

Alternator fell off due to poor engineering...got a free bracket update...paid for the alt.

Oil pump drive gear worn almost to destruction because it was orginally a soft brass alloy POS...TSB'd...but not for free. Had to pay for it.

V-Drive engine cover warps when it gets wet...Not Covered.

Tower cracks...Not Covered

Add broken leaf spring pack to the list...Not Covered.

Heck for any of this stuff, I was just looking for parts, I would have easily replaced them myself. No dice.

Off to the trailer supply store tommorrow. Parts probably won't be real expensive there.

(Message edited by big_poppa_pump on August 05, 2005)

cheap materials + crappy warranty = high profit margin

Springs are cheap, I wouldn't sweat it too much. But I would make sure to replace all the springs, bushings and u-bolts. Used to sell these parts, it is best to make an investment up front and replace them all at the same time.

If it's any consolation, I just replaced the entire brake system on my 02 Trail Rite. Rotors, Pads, Calipers, Actuator.

id put that more on the dealer than anything we had a 99 ps 205 that that happened to (spring) and we took care of it no questions asked your boat owning experience could have been better if the dealer had been easier to deal with.

As far as boats go it was pocket change to fix.

$133 for both sides from http://autosafetyhouse.com and they had the springs, shackles, and ubolts in stock. That shop rocks!!

Back in action.

Color is pretty close match if I wipe the road grime off the trailer. Axle was pretty easy to remove, think I'll take it off completely this winter and Rhinoliner it or at least paint it.

(Message edited by big_poppa_pump on August 09, 2005)

Seeing these pics brings up an off topic question...Why don't trailers have shocks?
You'd think that to dampen the bouncing that shocks would be a good thing to have.

Chris
Get the Grip you Deserve
www.wakejunky.com

You know, I kinda wondered the same thing. Ran across a few links while I was searching around for parts and torque specs.

Doesn't look too involved if you want to add them.

http://www.shockwarehouse.com/cgi-bin/shocks/mon_retrokit.html


I kinda wish now that I would have bought taller or thicker leafs. Like an 8 pack instead of a 7 or there was an option to go with a little thicker leafs. Could have gotten a little more height between the prop guard and the ground.

I was a little pressed for time and just got what was on there.

With the add-a-shock kit maybe I should think about going back and getting a 4" lift for the trailer, add some Ranchos and replace the trailer tires with some 35" Toyos to match the F250. Then I could fly by everyone at 55mph on the beach.

Why not air bags? They say they ride better than shocks and you could lower your trailer when launching at shallow ramps, or raise it when the prop guard is about to hit.

My trailer runs the Torsion bar system. Super super smooth and very little bouncing.

Granted it is a aftermarket trailer, but not sure why they still use leaf-spring, guess it provides a lower cost to the consumer.

How does your trailer get rusted out like that??? Are you riding in salt water?

Scott, not riding in salt water at all. The trailer is steel so anywhere the paint chips off it will rust on the surface. I live in AZ and there is no more rust on the trailer than when I bought it used 4.5 years ago.

I don't think any paint will really stay on the leaf springs without cracking eventually because they flex and the axle catches a lot of rocks from the tow vehicle.

Saw that someone on WW Rhino Linered their trailer and it looked pretty good and I know that stuff also comes in colors. So I will probably go that route on the axle this winter when its not so damn hot to work on the boat.

I think the real cause of the problem is that the U-bolts were too small and loosened up about a year ago, I re-torqued them back then but perhaps the damage had been done.. I've got considerably larger ones on there now and everything is locktited.

KG, I don't really have a problem with leaf spring technology, it works for my F250 so I'm sure its good enough for the trailer. Its just a matter of proper load ratings of the leaf pack and U-bolt torque.

Chaun, I agree.

I guess there is no real difference when it comes down to it. I will say that rinsing a leafspring is easier than the torsion...and I ride in saltwater so this was a concern. The trailer howerever is galvanied. It won't go bad for a long time, except for the fact that everyting else will!

My Mastercraft trailer rusted like a mofo too, and never saw salt water.

You're right about the cracking on the leaf springs. However, I had a new trailer for 3 years and it only had very minor rust on it. It's pretty dry here though and I always stored it indoors.

My suggestion for everyone...use some rustoleum paint on the undercarriage once a year to take care of the rusty spots. Unfortunately, trailers are often neglected when it comes to maintenance.