Winterize Sanger - Cut out Hose???

I took my boat to someone this weekend to winterize it and show me how to do it so I don't have to pay for it every year. Once he showed me, it is pretty simple. However, there was a problem. Let me know how else this can / could be done. Thanks.

Problem: The raw water intake hose is only 16" long. It goes directly from the bottom of the hull to a 90 elbow into the transmission. There is no wiggle room. The hose is a stout 1.5" dia reinforced hose. It does not move or hardly bend. Can not get the hose off. To get the antifreeze into the transmission intake he had to cut the hose to get it out. Once out, the antifreeze was poured into the intake side of the transmission and the boat started until antifreeze came out the exaust.

How to get the antifreeze in without cutting out the raw water intake hose? 07 Sanger V210

The hose will come off if you undo the clamps which I'm sure you did. Mine is the same set up...it will come off, but with a bit of tugging and slight twisting. Might even try heating it up with a hairdryer. (be careful of fuel vapors) So you already cut the hose, does that mean you have a new one on now?

What about using a fake-a-lake hooked up to a 5 gallon bucket. then pour a 50/50 mix of antifreeze into the bucket and just run the engine?

Whent the antifreeze starts coming out the exhaust, start recycling it into the 5 gallong bucket.

Get it nice and warm so the antifreeze gets into all the manifolds, vdrive and trans.

Wouldnt that work?

The hoses get set in there after a while & can be tough to remove. But they can be removed. Twist it. Remove it once a month just for kicks. Put some grease around the inside of it. Whatever it takes.

I'm not a fake-a-lake fan at all. I can't see whats going on underneath the boat if I'm inside the boat. It seems like the water pressure blows it off the boat about the time I get in there to start it. So I remove the raw water hose & plug my hose adapter in to the garden hose. I can regulate it from inside the boat, see if it's working or not, and I don't have to climb under the trailer.

We did cut the hose off. After looking at the hose, it was glued on at both ends. It also looks like the barbs on the nipple of the brass intake on the bottom of the hull is a screw type rather than regular barbs. Anyway, the hose had glue on it I guess it had to come off. I do need to put a new one on now.

So there is no "Special Setup" that anyone has come up with not to have to take that hose off? I was thinking about a ball valve on the bottom of the hull at the water inlet going up to a "Y" hose. You could shut off the ball valve at the bottom of the hull (so antifreeze would not run out) and fill antifreeze in the other leg of the "Y" When not winterizing, put some kind of plug in the open leg of the "Y" and run the boat like normal. There has to be an easier way.

Bill_K - I really like your setup to run water in while working on the boat. I am definately going to do that. (pictures are awesome...big help) Thanks!!

How and where does the fake a lake attach to the engine? That might be the solution too???

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=DP7

Todd, that looks like it would do exactly what I need it to do. Is there any downside to installing a FlushPRO ?? Do they have a big failure rate or does is limit water to the transmission?

We had a couple of them break when using them in the winter. The plastic gets brittle when it's cold out & then you hit it on something steel & it cracks. But I imagine not everyone is riding that time of year.

Todd, very slick. Thanks for sharing that

I ,and many on here, don't bother with anti freeze. If you drain all the water out there is nothing to freeze.

I provided the link, that being said I wouldn't mess with around with it. For the once or twice a year I run my boat on a hose, I can just remove the clamps and then the line to my vdrive. Mine's not glued, so with a bit of tugging it comes off. Then I just rigged up a hose that would fit on the v-drive and then clamped that to a hose that will fit over the garden hose. Just have to do a little trial and error by buying one foot sections of hose at the hardware store.

Bill- Does the impeller get any lubrication when running it that way?

The path of the water starts in the lake, then flows to the vdrive, then to raw water pump. Supplying the v-drive is essentially running it as if you were on a fake a lake, you are just bypassing 2 feet of hose going from the hull inlet to the v-drive.

So no, you will not run the impeller dry, it is still pumping the water.

Originally Posted by hatepain

I ,and many on here, don't bother with anti freeze. If you drain all the water out there is nothing to freeze.

+1



How do you dispose of the antifreeze when you de-winterize ?

Im so glad I live in CA.

It just goes down the drain or in the lake...this isn't automotive antifreeze

http://peakantifreeze.com/antifreeze...v_marine.shtml

Ecotoxicology: Based largely or completely on information for similar material (s), i.e., propylene glycol. Material is practically non-toxic to aquatic organisms on an acute basis (LC50 greater than 100 mg/L in most sensitive species).

Propylene glycol is not toxic to most things. However, it does break down in the water and in doing so removes a great deal of Oxygen from the water in the process. It is much better if you do not have it drain into the lake or a river directly.

Agreed, I would say just to fire it up on the hose before going to the lake. You should be testing out the engine in the spring before you get to the lake anyway. Maybe collect as much as you can in a bucket and dump it down the drain (not the storm drain).