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Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       07-10-2012, 7:13 PM Reply   
I've been researching on trying to figure out which sub would be the best bang for my buck. Im debating on a w7 or xxx. I want the boat to pound but still have the sq. Ive got a 12" ported box already built to go under the helm with a 12" Rockford Fosgate P3 in it. I have it in my truck breaking it in and it beats pretty good but not like my 2 JL W6's i have. I have a free air 10" Rockford Fosgate under the helm and its pretty much pointless because its so far up under the dash and its not loud at all. Im ready to get a good sub in there that ill be happy with so any advice on the best sub for this project would be great. Thanks in advance.
Old     (jonyb)      Join Date: Nov 2008       07-10-2012, 8:45 PM Reply   
Wet Sounds..... I say this because all the previous versions I've sold have been bulletproof, and they take a beating. Not saying the JL is, I just have more experience with the XXX.
Old     (Truekaotik)      Join Date: Jun 2012       07-10-2012, 8:51 PM Reply   
Not to be bias but I personally like the sound of JL. It is way more responsive, especially in SQ. now I havnt heard the xxx2, so I can't compare, but the 12w6 was nicer sounding than the original xxx.. So a 12W7 will be insane properly spec'd and powered... Unless you want to beat ghetto style (water shaking) I think a w7 is overkill for most... The p3 isn't even in the same realm as WETSOUNDS or JL... This will be a huge step up for you...
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       07-10-2012, 8:56 PM Reply   
yea just looking for some opinions for sure. I have 2 12" JL W6s sitting in the garage that have always been in my truck. I didnt know if a w7 would be noticibaly louder than a w6? I assume so but Ive never heard one, nor a xxx. I got the P3 brand new in the box from a buddy for $50 so I figured i may see if its enough, but its never enough haha.
Old     (Houstonshark)      Join Date: Jan 2011       07-10-2012, 9:40 PM Reply   
Bryce, I think you are on the right track but there's a lot to consider when trying to decide between 2 high end subs like these. First, what amp are you using to power the sub? Either will require a lot of power but IMO, the XXX will be a little more forgiving or versitle when it comes to power. From what I've heard with my own ears, the W7 is going to need about as much power as you can throw at it in order to perform optimumly.

Do you plan on keeping the enclosure you already built for the boat? If so, you are probably better off keeping the current RF sub if that's what it was built for. Ported enclosures are not usually interchangeable, though sometimes you may get lucky. You would definitely want an enclosure built specifically for either the XXX or the W7.

I went through the same process a couple months ago trying to decide what sub to go with in my boat. I ultimately ended up with a XXX V2 and could not be happier! It absolutely pounds and sounds great doing it. The XXX V2 seems to perform almost effortlessly. It is physically smaller and doesn't require the thicker front baffle that the W7 does.

One thing that helped me finalize my decision was that while testing out a couple subs in my boat I had the foam surrounds separate or tear on 2 12W6V2's and a 12W3V2 that were used (though they hadn't been used in a year or so) but physically looked good. I don't like foam surrounds, especially for a subwoofer that will be used in a marine environment. The XXX V2 is a true marine subwoofer that is designed to withstand the abuse that speakers in this environment will take.

Here's my thread where I ultimately went with the XXX V2, in case you haven't seen it yet:
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       07-11-2012, 5:38 AM Reply   
Tj, thanks for the info. I followed your build and your buddy did an awesome job with the trim piece! I think Im leaning towards a xxx now. I've got a 1000 jl amp that ill probably throw on whatever I get. How did that box turn out for you? Any port noise with all the corners?
Old     (david_e_m)      Join Date: Jul 2008       07-11-2012, 9:25 AM Reply   
To create the perception that foam surrounds are unreliable or do not last is nonsense. We have tons of people that have been running woofers with foam surrounds for a decade with zero issues. In fact, most of the SPL woofers use a lighter foam surround and most of the really long excursion woofers also use a foam surround.
But no surround lasts forever including a rubber surround. Any moving part, and surrounds definitely move, will wear out. Rubber surrounds are more prone to separation from the cone and are more prone to hardening and stiffening thereby changing the parameters over time. When either quality product fails prematurely there is usually a good reason. Here are the typical reasons for the failure of a surround:
The enclosure has lost its airtight integrity and the woofer is running undamped. Now, it's like running on a tire at highway speed with no air pressure. So how long will the sidewalls last? Not very long. If an idiot continues to drive on a flat tire and blows it out does that mean I'll never buy another radial tire? Of course not. But that is how false myths over-learning or by arriving at the wrong conclusion. In this case, it is usually a matter of poor execution rather than a product weakness. Like, not using a quality terminal cup or binding post to pass the wire through the enclosure wall. A caulked pass-through hole will fail every time. Or, another cause is building 1/2-inch enclosures. The seams fail every time. Or, using an untreated or poorly treated MDF. The enclosure fails every time. Or, not elevating the enclosure off the sole to provide for drainage and evaporation. The enclosure will fail every time. Or, the woofer cone edge and surround are pounding against a hose, cable or other obstruction on long excursions. We have plenty of photos documenting that miscalculation. Or, using bass boost in conjunction with an inordinately low crossover frequency and an inordinately high enclosure tuning frequency and maybe the addition of an unsealed enclosure. The combination is an absolute woofer killer. So if someone has a pile of otherwise quality woofers with failed surrounds, that tells you that they routinely practice flawed execution in one or more area and are very slow learners. That would be the last person you would want doing your system. When good woofers are abused, whether by the wrong set up, poor installation/execution or by how they are used, the spider, which is the primary mechanical damper, gets seriously fatiqued. Now the air suspension AND the mechanical suspension are thrashed. So the woofer sounds like crap. And that is how and precisely when many 'used' woofers are generated. It's hard to deduce the cause of a woofer failure when you don't know the entire history. Our experience has been that we have only seen failed foam and rubber surrounds on quality woofers when it is a longterm used woofer suddenly put back into action after a long period of non-use or when connected to one of the above examples of bad execution.

Earmark Marine
Old     (Houstonshark)      Join Date: Jan 2011       07-11-2012, 9:27 AM Reply   
Nope. No port noise at all. I did run a thin strip of wood with 36 grit sandpaper glued to it on all the edges before putting the top on it. With as long as the ports are, especially the last long section that runs the depth of the box, I'm not sure you'd hear any port noise anyway.

I think Wet Sounds nailed it with this enclosure design. The tuning frequency for an open air environment in a boat is spot on. There's not a lot of wasted energy (especially with a subsonic filter) at the lower frequencies that wouldn't be realized in the boat.
Old     (Truekaotik)      Join Date: Jun 2012       07-11-2012, 12:14 PM Reply   
Originally Posted by bryce2320 View Post
yea just looking for some opinions for sure. I have 2 12" JL W6s sitting in the garage that have always been in my truck. I didnt know if a w7 would be noticibaly louder than a w6? I assume so but Ive never heard one, nor a xxx. I got the P3 brand new in the box from a buddy for $50 so I figured i may see if its enough, but its never enough haha.
The RF will perform OK... But when you mention the big dogs like W7 or XXX, it's not even close.... The best bang for buck and power I've seen so far (from cheapest to most expensive) is: 12w3 off half a syn4 or a syn2, 12w6 or xxx off a MHD 750 or syn2, 13w6 or xxx2 ( havnt heard this yet but this is what I'd power it with) off MHD1200 or syn1, or a W7 off two mhd1200... Now they don't have to be marine grade amps I just stated those.. I could throw a hundred different brands in this equation but I'm sticking to what two companies you stated...

I also agree with David on his post about surrounds...
Old     (murphy_smith)      Join Date: Dec 2005       07-11-2012, 12:31 PM Reply   
I've got a 12w6 with an Arc Audio 1000.1 and love it.

Keep in mind Im very careful on the throttle and with a little help from david, able to hear when the sub is being over driven and pushed beyond the safe point.
Old     (bruizza)      Join Date: May 2009       07-11-2012, 1:41 PM Reply   
If you want absolute bang for your buck get the RE Audio SXX 12. I got mine for $199 brand new and it absolutely pounds. I have it in a 2 cu ft ported box tuned to 33hz with 1400w going to it and it is insane. That deal on that XXX on TO is good so if you are dead set on the XXX or W7 I'd say grab that XXX. Ask Timmy over on TO about the RE Audio vs a W7 he can give you a good comparison.
Old     (Houstonshark)      Join Date: Jan 2011       07-11-2012, 1:41 PM Reply   
Geez...I should have known that was coming. Good job David.
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       07-11-2012, 2:22 PM Reply   
Bruizza, I have heard great things about RE Audio but have never heard there sub. I read your thread on TO from a few months back. How many ft3 and hertz is your box you built? Ported or sealed? How does it compare to a JL W6? I'd love to see some pics of your build if you have any! Thanks for the advice.
Old     (timmyb)      Join Date: Apr 2007       07-11-2012, 3:02 PM Reply   
I'd say to just put the P3 in for now and see how you like it. The RE Bruizza has sounds great, especially for at $200!!! I think the RE SXX is probably a direct competitor to the W6, I feel like the W7 has a little more output than the SXX. I have yet to hear a good install on the Wetsounds XXX. I have heard 2 different boxes on it and neither performed the way that I thought they would. Nick at WWS in Denver has a Wetsounds XS-12 and it hit harder than the XXX install that I heard. I was going to build that ported enclosure that TJ has and have this guy I know put his XXX in there just so I could hear what it's supposed to sound like. These are just the opinions of a nobody (me), your mileage and hearing may vary...
Old     (timmyb)      Join Date: Apr 2007       07-11-2012, 3:03 PM Reply   
I built a 1.5 cu ft ported box for a JL 12W6 last week for a Nauti 210 but I haven't got to hear it yet. I tuned it at 38hz even though JL recommends 32.
Old     (bruizza)      Join Date: May 2009       07-11-2012, 3:17 PM Reply   
My box is 2 cubic ft and tuned to 33hz. RE has a box builder on their website that will show you everything you need.
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       07-11-2012, 3:44 PM Reply   
Thanks guys, that kind of throws out the xxx than, id rather try my w6 in it and see if its enough. The RE sounds like a great deal tho. Bruizza, how many watts are u feeding it? 500 rms with ur rockford?
Old     (timmyb)      Join Date: Apr 2007       07-11-2012, 4:06 PM Reply   
It all comes down to money and how much you want to spend/not spend. If you already have W6's, try one and see how you like it. I know if I had the P3 and 2 W6's, I would at least try both out and see which one I liked better.
Old     (david_e_m)      Join Date: Jul 2008       07-11-2012, 4:08 PM Reply   
I'm not going to get into brand to brand subwoofer comparisons. But you can't compare subwoofer performance on what the manufacturer promises you, the power handling specs or the magnet size. I only wish it was that simple.
But this you can bank on....of the many subs discussed over the internet, which one has proprietary materials or exclusive technology? Answer: Only a rare few.
Which ones have the computer programs and computing power and expertise to do true Finite Element Analysis? A rare few.
Which ones have the expensive distortion analyzers, lasers and laser pick-ups to accurately measure performance? A rare few.
It doesn't really matter if the subwoofer is made (assembled) in the USA if all the parts are engineered and shipped in from China.
When a new brand of woofer offering comes to the market I often have a conversation with the company owner, sales manager or acoustic engineer and I ask the same questions, "What differentiates your product? What unique materials are you using? What unique engineering are you using? I get answers but I never hear anything that hasn't been stated a 100 times before by a number of other builders/importers claiming the same exact thing.
A woofer is much like the prop on your boat or like the differential in your car. Increasing the hole shot decreases the top end efficiency with the inverse also being true. And you can't escape these fundamentals. So bigger voice coils, more voice coil windings, lighter cones, heavier cones, larger magnets, longer excursions, shorter voice coils and so on have an impact on the other parameters. Past a point if you increase power handling you absolutely will decrease sound quality and transient response. Multiple spiders drag along excess moving mass which isn't exactly ideal for a responsive SQ woofer. SPL woofers offer a peak response over a narrower bandwidth. SQ woofers offer a broader and more linear output but just do not have as much of a peak output. Woofers that claim to do both are very vague when called on the carpet to explain this.
Now that doesn't mean that there aren't some very good compromises at a lower cost. But please do not make comparisons to products outside of their pay grade. And please don't arrive at fixed ideas based on a couple of examples of bad execution.
Btw, is anyone fooled by those plastic magnet shrouds that emulate the appearance of more expensive woofers?

Earmark Marine
Old     (bruizza)      Join Date: May 2009       07-11-2012, 4:35 PM Reply   
I have 1400w RMS going to it right now. Started out with 1000w but fried that amp. It was a refurb so that might be why it happened. After I fried that amp I had a syn 2 hooked to it but you could tell it wasn't hitting as hard. So I just ordered the RE Audio xtx 3000.1 amp. Not nearly as efficient but I put a cooling fan on it and haven't had any issues. For a total of less than $500 (sub, amp, fan, box) I am extremely satisfied.
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       07-18-2012, 9:13 PM Reply   
Came across a good deal today from craigslist here in town. A 13.5 JL w7 and a PDX 1.1000 amp for $520. I go pick it up tomorrow night. Looks like ill be building yet another box spec'd out for the w7 to fit under the helm. Im hoping it will be as loud as i hope it will in an open environment. I cut out the bird nest of wires from my head unit to amps and speakers tonight and took all 3 amps down and started my new amp rack. I will post new thread when I get it all installed and cleaned up! I was wondering if I should keep my JL XD1000.1 or go with the PDX1.1000. Ive been researching and it sounds like the alpine amp is more efficient and a lot smaller. Any opinions on that would be great. If its comparing apples to apples like everything else ill hook both up and go from there.
Old     (david_e_m)      Join Date: Jul 2008       07-19-2012, 4:44 AM Reply   
Not familiar with a JL Audio model XD1000/1. Maybe the 'XD' is throwing me off. If you are referring to the JL Slash 1000 then that is much more amplifier than the Alpine PDX. The Slash is strictly regulated and about 30 percent more robust. The Slash is discrete topology and a higher current amplifier. Huge difference in power at 40/50 Hz. Although the Slash is Class D the Alpine version is a little more efficient. You need the Slash for a 13W7.

Earmark Marine
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       07-19-2012, 5:18 AM Reply   
I went and double checked and its the jl j2 1000.1. It's one of jl cheapest amps and there discontinued. Maybe ill start looking for a slash. Thanks
Old     (david_e_m)      Join Date: Jul 2008       07-19-2012, 8:27 AM Reply   
Okay. The JL Audio J2 1000.1 is a great value amplifier but not stout enough to drive a massive, high-excursion 13W7.

Earmark Marine
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       07-19-2012, 11:26 AM Reply   
Damn, I guess I'm on the hunt for a 1000/1 slash. Any other amps that are cheaper that would b good for the beast?
Old     (hatepain)      Join Date: Aug 2006       07-19-2012, 11:29 AM Reply   
I respect Davids opinion but I wouldn't run right out and buy a new amp without at least trying the PDX on that W7. They are very good amplifiers and due their effeciency and size work great in boat aplications not to mention they don't even get warm. I've seen several of them and they all were underrated, granted at 14.4V where the JL is a 12.5-14.4 rating.
Old     (david_e_m)      Join Date: Jul 2008       07-19-2012, 1:56 PM Reply   
Absolutely. I have no reservations about the Alpine PDX 1000 getting it done. The 13W7 is a big woofer with a ton of excursion. A higher current amplifier will deliver more control and more bandwidth under load. So just something you can aspire to.

Earmark Marine
Old     (Truekaotik)      Join Date: Jun 2012       07-19-2012, 6:56 PM Reply   
2 JL HD750's.. One on each coil no one will touch your one speaker...Haha
Old     (Truekaotik)      Join Date: Jun 2012       07-19-2012, 6:59 PM Reply   
Or two slash 1000.....
Old     (timmyb)      Join Date: Apr 2007       07-19-2012, 8:40 PM Reply   
My buddy runs a pdx 1000 on his 12W7 and it gets the job done quite nicely!
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       07-19-2012, 8:46 PM Reply   
Thanks for all the input. Timmy, thats what ive been wanting to hear haha. Ill probably start building another box tomorrow night for the w7. I cant wait to hear this thing pound. I hope I'm not dissapointed but dont know what to expect since ive never heard one.
Old     (Truekaotik)      Join Date: Jun 2012       07-19-2012, 8:50 PM Reply   
To sum it up, the deep bass extension of a 15" with the punch of a 12".... Generic analogy but you'll hear soon...
The JL sub is under rated.. For maximum performance I've found that you want to run max or more. The 1000 will work just fine though to push it, don't get me wrong.. Just throwing something out there so you know...

Last edited by Truekaotik; 07-19-2012 at 8:58 PM. Reason: Added info
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       07-19-2012, 9:17 PM Reply   
is there a better and cheaper amp to throw on it that will put out more rms than the 1000/1 slash series?
Old     (hatepain)      Join Date: Aug 2006       07-19-2012, 9:52 PM Reply   
In a properly built bass reflex enclosure the PDX will hit very hard, fear not. If you're planning on a sealed enclosure it will still be good but 1500 watts would be straight proper.
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       07-19-2012, 9:56 PM Reply   
I'm not sure I'm up to building a bandpass type box but I was going to try a specd out ported box. It's n a sealed specd enclosure now so ill see how loud it is when I hook it up tomorrow.
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       07-20-2012, 5:36 PM Reply   
just picked up my 13w7 and holy **** this thing is huge! Biggest surrround ive ever seen on a sub. I hooked it up with the pdx 1000.1 on it and it was banging almost as loud as my 2 12w6s. Im prettty impressed especially because its in a sealed box. Im fixing to get started on a new specd out ported box for under the helm if I can squeeze it in there. Im going to also put the JL J21000.1 on it and see what i like best. Theres no way to put both amps on it as one is there? Im pretty sure there isnt but worth a shot i guess.
Old     (david_e_m)      Join Date: Jul 2008       07-20-2012, 5:58 PM Reply   
Of the JL Audio W7 series woofers, the 13 is the only dual 1.5-ohm voice coil model. Neither of your two amplifiers are biased for any load below 2-ohms. So I think it is just over the line.
Two JL Audio HD750/1s with one per voice coil would be heaven on a 13W7. This is a case where a signal generator and voltmeter is important to set both amplifiers equally. You can't always depend on the nomenclature to be 100 percent accurate in tracking frequency or voltage.

Earmark Marine
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       07-21-2012, 9:20 PM Reply   
Just bout a jl 1000/1 slash for 320 today. Supposedly in great shape. I'll find out tomorrow when I hk get it! I built a fiberglassed mdf ported box last night for it. Can't wait to hear this thing with a lot of power and ported box! There's so many knobs on that damn amp that they're hard for me to time in. Ive researched the amp and hopefully can get it dialed in! Carpet for all rack and trim panel, rcas and 0 gauge should b in Tuesday so hopefully have install pics coming soon!
Old     (Truekaotik)      Join Date: Jun 2012       07-22-2012, 7:34 PM Reply   
Cant wait for pics.. you can put 1 amp to each coil as David outlined like 2 hd750's or slash1000's but not the pdx bet your stoked! New toys!!!! Haha
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       07-22-2012, 9:05 PM Reply   
Haha yea I'm stoked, just picked up my new amp! It was beating 2 15 kicker cvr to death in this guys trunk. It's definately the real deal. I wish I had room for 2 of these bad boys! I was worried bout the w7 handling one WOT lol. I got a few ?s bout setting this amp. There's a output polarity and I assume it should b on normal. Input voltage on high or low? And is the input sens. petty much act as the gain? I think I have the rest of the knobs figured out ball park settings from some research. Any help would b great. Tomorrow ill b trying to get the sub out of the old box and into the new ported box I built. maybe ill throw it n my truck and time it n!!
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       07-26-2012, 6:02 PM Reply   
Got the amp rack and most of the wires ran to where there going. I thought i was going to be able to screw the amp rack to the wall, than mount my amps and hook them up. WRONG! My 4 ga wire that was supposed to be here Tuesday is MIA! Looks like no lake again this weekend. I put my 13w7 in my new ported box i built the other night. I just put it in my truck with the 1000/1 and WOW! Im more than impressed. I had the input sens. set like JL recommended and it was beating pretty damn good. I went ahead and turned the input sens. up a little more to see what else it had in it and it gave it what the sub was wanting. It didnt distort at all. Just pounded away crisper and beater SQ and SPL bass than my 2 12 w6s. I was hoping to put it in the boat and wire everything up tonight and get the boat cleaned out for tomorrow night but it looks like all that will have to wait. This sucks!
Old     (Truekaotik)      Join Date: Jun 2012       07-26-2012, 7:12 PM Reply   
That bad boy can handle some juice.. NO DOUBT...
Old     (timmyb)      Join Date: Apr 2007       07-27-2012, 12:54 PM Reply   
Glad to hear that you like it Bryce! Told you that PDX would hit it just fine! They are impressive amps!
Old     (Houstonshark)      Join Date: Jan 2011       07-27-2012, 1:49 PM Reply   
Originally Posted by timmyb View Post
Glad to hear that you like it Bryce! Told you that PDX would hit it just fine! They are impressive amps!
He put a JL 1000/1 amp on it Timmy. Get with it...he has 2 threads about it! I bet the PDX would have done ok too.
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       01-13-2013, 7:07 PM Reply   
Bumping an old thread I bought another JL 1000/1 slash amp, black edition for 175 the other day!! It was a steal cuz the amps in great shape. I thought about putting both amps on the w7 like we tossed around last summer. I was wondering how big a difference it'd b to do it if anyone has ever heard one with that much power to it. I damn sure don't want to blow it tho. I will set both amps to b the exact same with a volt meter. Just wondering about ideas on it. Also have a few pics of the trim panel I built the other day

Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       01-13-2013, 7:56 PM Reply   
I painted the port black, I just didnt take a picture when I put the panel back on so dont flame me
Old     (Truekaotik)      Join Date: Jun 2012       01-14-2013, 2:03 PM Reply   
Yes you can run each on a coil... It's ALOT of power so discretion is needed... First, not to pick on your design but it looks like you didn't coat your MDF enclosure with anything to keep a breach from happening? Plus it's sitting on the floor of the boat, correct? Normally for weekend warriors, I'd see this as a little flaw.. But seeing your floor and the water stain in front of the box, it looks like you see water inside more than most? You'll want to pull the speaker and resin coat the inside and outside atleast brother... these are some things I think you should address before going Donkey Kong on the power, this can cause you to pound excellent one day and blow it the next from a breach... With this much power (2000 watts) , I strongly suggest making the box in-penetrable to water and elements, plus raising it a bit from standing water? How does it connect in the back? Via terminal cup or just wired thru the box? You'll want to make sure this is air tight as well... I have installed some on the floor (without risers), coated, with no issues yet, but they werent pushing as much air as your gonna be pushing.. David will prolly chime in as well to the looks... Normally I wouldn't bring these thing up and pick on your system but, with the money involved, I'd like to see you get the best for your investment. These little things are easy fixes compared to what you've already done. Only thing I see you remaking would be the trim ring if you want it sitting on the floor still ( I'd leave it raised with the box as well, that's just me though) . Just a suggestion??? looks good though!

Last edited by Truekaotik; 01-14-2013 at 2:06 PM.
Old     (Houstonshark)      Join Date: Jan 2011       01-14-2013, 2:43 PM Reply   
Bryce, I'd be really surprised if you would notice any benefit from the 2nd amp. Even if you did, the current draw and stress level on everything would far outweigh the benefit.

Think of the stress: on the charging system, the batteries (when playing it with the motor off), the sub, the enclosure (as it is now, as Tru pointed out) and on you when someone else is operating the stereo controls. I'd be scared to death that someone, after a few drinks would play a really 'hot' track and get a little aggressive with the volume to the point where you let the genie out...

I'd rebuild the enclosure with marine grade plywood, coated in resin and maybe adjust the tuning frequency of the enclosure up or down based on how it performs now and how you'd like to improve the bass. Definitely lift it with some rubber feet or similar if you can.
Old     (Houstonshark)      Join Date: Jan 2011       01-14-2013, 2:48 PM Reply   
The trim panel looks good by the way! Grab some metal mesh to staple to the back side of the trim panel to cover the port similar to this:

That will help keep random trash, bugs, etc out of the port.
Old     (Houstonshark)      Join Date: Jan 2011       01-14-2013, 3:00 PM Reply   
It may not be a bad idea to look at building the trim panel so that it protects the sub as long as you can secure it well where it won't rattle. I'm pretty happy with how mine turned out.

My ports are on either side of the enclosure. As long as you keep the trim panel at least 2" from the enclosure you don't have to worry about the panel and port matching up as long as your overall opening is a decent size.
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       01-14-2013, 3:32 PM Reply   
Hey truekatoic, the MDF enclosure was actually coated with resin on each side before I put it togeather, may be hard to see from the pic but its super shiny. The enclosure is also sitting on the lip of the false wall that I couldnt cut it flush with the floor so theres actually 3/4" of space underneath the floor that you cant see from this angle. The back of the box has a terminal cup that is caulked and screwed down so we're good there. Couldnt I turn the gain down on each amp so its not at the max AC voltage but as long as they're the same? Like TJ said, it may be to much strain and a bigger hassle than the rewards, but thats why I was asking. I just took all the amps out of the boat so I'm making 2 seperate amp racks, just thought since I had 2 1000/1, I would use them like we discussed a few months ago. As for the "water stain" in front of the box, that is some kind of glue that the owner before me spilled and didnt care to clean up apparently. The carpet may be on the to do list for next winter but Im not going to worry about it yet.

Thanks for the advice on the panel TJ, it definately doesnt look as bad with the port painted black. Maybe when I take the sub out to redo the carpet, I will go with a different design and who knows, maybe go with a RE XXX and a RE5000.1 who knows but for know I think it looks a lot better than with a plain box. May do some mesh tho which would look pretty good. Or mayb Ill see if your buddy will make me a panel and do something badass that will top yours and we can keep him in business going back in for
Old     (Truekaotik)      Join Date: Jun 2012       01-14-2013, 4:48 PM Reply   
Your good then. Sorry, just didn't notice the coating for the terminal cap in the back, we like to isolate it from the enclosure. The pressure your about to create, will breach the terminal cup eventually... Just food for thought... Looks good though! You can try the mesh but it may cause noise. I don't like any restriction on my ports.. I'm weird I guess... Try it? I think you'll like it.. You will definitely notice a difference in running double power... For protecting the speaker, they make a grill for that speaker order it...

Last edited by Truekaotik; 01-14-2013 at 4:50 PM.
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       01-14-2013, 5:11 PM Reply   
How about I sell my 2 JL 1000/1s and buy 2 of TJ's MHD750/1s, just to be safe
Old     (david_e_m)      Join Date: Jul 2008       01-14-2013, 8:20 PM Reply   
I just don't know about twin Slash 1000s on a single woofer. That is an insane amount of power and I would be nervous. Remember that this model rountinely tests 10 to 15 percent over spec and being strictly regulated they do not drop off in power like other amplifiers do as the voltage sags. A true parametric bass EQ. You don't see that on the alternatives. A subsonic filter with such a broad range if you really want to go for SPL. You can tune the enclosure higher and run the subsonic higher and turn that sub into an SPL monster by sacrificing a bit of extension and linearity. But hey, that's exactly what some of the competing SPL woofers do by their inherent design. While this path is not my personal preference it's always a design option if you crave more output.

Do you have any idea the sound quality compromises made in creating a woofer that will handle 2500 continuous watts? You can't get there without some major trade-offs.

If I had the available real estate I would never trade the Slash for anything else.

Just for grins, check out the new Slash 1200/1.

Earmark Marine
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       01-14-2013, 8:49 PM Reply   
Thanks David. I could sell my silver 1000/1, but the black edition I just bought for 175 isnt going anywhere but mayb my truck on my other 13w7 (since I have 3 of them now ) I may just go with the 750s to be safe and hang on the black edition 1000/1 and sell the other one to help pay for the 750/1. Getting vinyl done, adding another pair of Rev10s and Syn4 gets a little expensive all at the same time
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       01-14-2013, 8:50 PM Reply   
And I guess if I sold a 13w7 and amp it'd pay for the amps from TJ I'd rather sell that alpine PDX 1000.1 tho before i sold my silver 1000/1
Old     (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       01-14-2013, 8:53 PM Reply   
You were right David, that 2012 1200/1 v3 is badass!!!!!!! All blacked out again this time and is probably closer to pushing the 13 to its limits than the 1000/1 v1


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