ID Max Sub?

I am about to buy a ID Max sub for the boat. Was looking and they have both a D2 and D4. When it comes down to ohms I don't really understand the whole concept.

D2 is 1/4 ohms...D4 is 2/8 ohms. I am planning on getting a 1000watt RMS mono amp. When it comes down to ohms I don't really understand the whole concept.

Depends on your amps rating. If that rating is at 4 ohms then you want the D2. Wire the sub in series for a 4 ohm load.

To wire it you take "+" from the amp to "+" on the first voice coil. Then wire "-" from the first voice coil to the "+" on the second voice coil. Lastly, wire "-" from the second voice coil back to the "-" on the amp.

If the amp is rated 1000w rms at 2 ohms then buy the D4 and wire the voice coils in parallel. You will need to run two sets of wires to the speaker and hook up "+" to "+" and "-" to "-" for each voice coil. In this configuration each voice coil is independent and the amp sees a 2 ohm load resistance. At the amp you will combine the "+" leads to the single "+" output on the amp and do the same for the "-" leads.

Go to ID's website or JL Audio's website. They have wiring diagrams that explain everything in good detail.

Greg...thanks for the website info, JL has the best explanation.

If I wire parallel--Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 1 Ohms...Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms

So if the amp is 1250 @ 1 ohm would wire it up parallel and get the D2?

You don't want to run 1 ohm unless the amp is stable at 1 ohm. What amp are you looking at. I run IDMax is 2 ohms. It is not a power hungry sub. If using a 1.25 or 1.5 ft3, 400 - 500 watts would be plenty for it. If you are using 1.0 ft3, 500 to 750 watts will make it pound. The problem with 1 ohm is sound quality and heat. Unless it is a really good qulaity amp, I would run it 2 ohm even if the amp says 1 ohm stable. Boat amps get very hot in the summer time it will be cutting in and out on you. Get the D4 and wire it 2 ohm unless you have a high quality amp that run 1000 watts mono in 4 ohm. Then run D2 in 4 ohm configuration. That would be an expensive amp though. Generally, a D2 is bought for people who are running 2 subs so that they can wire to make the amp see 2 ohms with 2 subs.

Doug....These are the amps that i'm considering.

Soundstream Tarantula
PPI

Are there any other amps that you would recommend? Not looking to spend 1k on an amp by any means.

I would recommend Tarantula by looks alone. It is cool. Either amp will do fine. The PPI will not be happy in 1 ohm. It can be a little unhappy in 2 ohm. Just have to keep the gain back justa touch which you need to do anyway to keep out distortion. Definitely get the D4 and wire it 2 ohm.

2 other amps to consider in that price range

Orion 900 Extreme
Pheonix Gold Titanium ZX 1100

I would be awefully tempted by the Tarantula. The other thing that bothers me is it seems to good to be true, the deal that is.

So is I were to buy a 2 channel amp that was bridged at 700w @ 4Ohms running one sub. I would want to get a 4Ohm sub and run the voice coils in series? I would not want a 2 Ohm sub correct?

Is the ID Max sub better then the Solo?

Okay scratch that last question, no comparison between a ID Max and a Solo.

Badzuki: I would get a D2 and wire 4 ohm if the amp does 4 ohm in bridged mode. In bridged mode, you probably don't want to run the amp with a 2 ohm load, but I have been quailty of this in the past. The amp will run hotter and may cut in and out because it is trying to draw to much power. Nothing is gained by doing it as the amp produced max rating at 4 ohm and you just reduce sound quality a little.

The ID Max is a very good sub, but I would be tempted to run the new JL 12W6v2. I just saw a test on it in Car Audio and they said it was the best sounding sub they had eve tested. They have tested the W7 and the IDMax. The V2 is actually cheaper the W7 and may be cheaper than the IDMax. That will be the next sub I try.

I was just trying to figure a combination in which I could possibly run two subs with one amp. But I will probably just end up running one sub becuase of room.

To me if I am going to run one sub I want a 4 ohm sub. If I am going to run two I would want to get 2 Ohms subs.

So my question is, can I get a 2 Ohm Sub and make the amp see a 4 Ohm load by running the coils in series?

I want to bridge an amp with one 2Ohm sub at 4 ohms. This way if I can just add another 2 ohm sub if I wanted without a change in power.

if you want one large, burly sub look at the adire brahma.

i run a cadence 17JC (1200x1 at 1ohm) runs super cool, ive driven from miami - orlando towing a boat (6hrs) full blast, not once did it cut out of over heat. Its a very effcient amp, and if u dont wanna run it at 1 0hm u can run it at 2 ohm and get 600watts rms from it, its actually underrated so more like 650 - 700rms, good quality amp, u can find them on ebay im pretty sure, i got mine from second owner for $300 a few years ago. I pushin an Adire Audio Brahma, which competes againts the idmax in sp/spl, so im sure this amp will be good for u too.

if you want a great sub amp for very little money look no further than the jbl bp series on ebay. great amps.

Badzuki,

In answer to your question, if you buy a dual voice coil (DVC) sub, you should run it in parrallel or in series, NOT in stereo. While it's not the end of the world, and your sub will not blow up, you will suffer sound quality.

Between parrallel and series, running coils (or speakers for that matter) in series introduces a tiny bit more distortion than running things in parrallel does. Whether or not this matters to a signifcant degree is up to you.

If you currently want one subwoofer with the possible addition of another later on, your best bet seems to be to buy ONE DVC sub now where each coil is rated at 8 ohms. Wiring this in parrallel would give you a nice 4 ohm load which almost all amps can handle running bridged. Later on, if you bought a SECOND DVC sub with coils rated at 8 ohms, you'd have another 4 ohm load. Then you have a couple choices. With almost all amps, you could run the subs in stereo with one DVC sub (4 ohms) on the right channel and the other on the left channel. If you have a beefy amp rated for it, the other option would be to run the amp in bridged mode and wire both subs (each 4 ohm loads) in parrallel for a total draw of 2 ohms. Again, you'd have to have a fairly beefy amp to do this.

Frankly, if you're talking about bass, I would not even get a two channel amp. I'd would get (and currently own multiple) JBL sub amps like this. You can get the amp and one DVC with 8 ohm coils as we discussed above and then run the amp at 4 ohms with a 600 watt output (not bad). Then, when you're ready to get another sub, wire it in parrallel for a 2-ohm load and release the amp's full 1200 watts (not bad at all).

Sorry for the novel. I love this stuff.

Matt - thanks for the great answer. I went to JL's website and got the low down on the wiring situations and that gave me a clue.

I just can't decide which sub to go with. The solo is so CHEAP. But Like Doug said the 10W6v2 is a great sub for the price. I don't know. Someone persuade me!!!

The amp. I think I am going to go ppi. Just can't beat the total package of their amps.

Car Audio said the v2 was the best sounding sub they had tested. The sub looks amazing. That will be the next sub I buy and it can pound with only 400 or 500 watts. Much better for a boat system than a power hungry sub that requires a 1000 watts. Less drain on your charging system.

Doug - what amp should I push a 10W6v2 with? Can I find a better price/quality combo then PPI?

Remember I am not a lawyer. Cheap is the name of the game.

PPI would be good. Orion, Pheonix Gold Titanium or even Tantrum would be good. Those Soundstream Tarantulas look awfeul tempting. The Cadence is good as is the JBL monos, but probably not as good as the above. JLs also make great amps. I would shoot for 600 to 1000 watts, but even with 500 or so, you will probably get X-Max out of it.

Doug I have one of the 500w 2ch Cadence amps in my X2 and can tell you from personal experience that they do not hold up to heat very well. I burned up the cooling fans in mine last summer during a cool Texas day and since then the sub cuts out almost immediately on a warm day.

I don't have personal experience with Cadence, but their reputation among competition circles is a very reliable amp for the price. The primary factors in heating up and clipping will be what load (4ohm, 2 ohm, or 1 ohm) and what the gains are set at. Allesandro is running a 1,200 watt Cadence. Not sure what impedience he was running, but regardless he has lots of head room and would not need to stress the amp out as much as a 500 watt 2 channel amp to get the desired volume. The amps power ratings do not necessarily dictate what wattage you are running. If you run a 2 ohm speaker on a 1,200 watt at 1 ohm amp, you are really only running the amp at 600 watts. This is not to say that Allesandro was running the Brahma in 1 ohm configuration and realizing the full 1,200 watt power rating. Always better to get more power and back off the gain just a touch.

get the jbl mono bp series. great sub amps and very inexpensive.