prop puller

need to get the prop off for a pre-season tune up. Is it worth buying a prop puller? Do they rent them?

IMO if you own a boat, you should own a prop puller, yes it is worth buying.

If you can find one I would say rent it for the day. You should be able to find one at a boat or ship yard if you have any by you otherwise check with your local boat shop, if they don't have one, they should be able to point you in the right direction.

I can speak from experience when I say its not fun in any way trying to pull one without it, if you find one at a good price I would snag it.

(Message edited by bac on February 06, 2010)

Got one, in stock, ready to ship - $30 plus actual shipping (typically $10 via priority mail).

As to whether you have one or not - would you travel without the wrench and jack for your spare tire?

Karl,
Do you have one for sale? $40.00 ?

You can use an automotive type puller also. I've done it and no damage to the prop.

Didn't need one on mine. A 2x2x6 and a hammer worked perfect. Put the wood against the shaft and the back of the prop. Hold the wood at about a 35 degree angle and give it a couple good hits. Make sure you have the nut on the shaft so your prop does not pop off. If that does not work then go buy a puller. It took me about 10 minutes to swap out my prop.

Yes. I have one. Let me know. You can take a chance, but when your Saturday and crew depends on a quick prop change, it always sticks....

Put a little anti-seize on the shaft. Then no worries about sticking. Put that $40 to better use.

I've heard of people using these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40970 That is assuming that it's a 3 blade prop. Karl that is a good deal on a prop puller if I were the op I would jump on it.

Anti-seize wont make the average prop that is seated correctly, with a correctly torqued nut, "pop" off without a puller but should always be used to prevent corrosion. Always keep a prop puller and spare prop.

No corrosion no stick. My factory prop that was on the boat for 4yrs popped right off. Once I saw how easy it was I was glad I did not buy a puller. Heck if it makes you feel better just buy one. IMO and case it was not worth buying one though.

Its got nothing to do with "feeling better". Most correctly seated props on inboards, with or without anti-seize, will need a puller. "Put a little anti-seize on the shaft. Then no worries". Maybe true in your case but certainly not the majority.

I have seen and heard of many props coming off just like mine. Just go out and try it first. If it does not work then go buy a puller. It's that simple. This technique was suggested by a mechanic @ a Natique/sanger dealer. It is what he does about 90% of the time.

I bought mine from Karl. It's the harmonic one and works easily. Basically it is a big nut you hit with a hammer. Kind of fun after the you get over the jitters of swinging the hammer toward your boat the first time.

used the Aaron method. No problem0

Now to try to get the blower out for repair!

Good for you man. I figured I had nothing to loose and $40 to gain. The mechanic assured me it would work or he would bring a puller to my house for me to use. He was right.

90%? Bull****

^^^ Dude don't get bent about it. IT WORKED why would you say 90% bull****? He told me what he did and it worked for me. You got all bent out of shape the last time we did not agree on some thing. Bleeding brakes. You said go by a hand held vacuum gun. I said gravity bleed and be done before you can get back from buying a vacum gun. There is more then one way to do things. You must be one of those people that run and buy a tool for every thing you do. I like to go out and just get it done. Be happy for the guy and that he saved $40.00 instead of buying/ordering a tool he did not need and waiting for it ship to his door.

The A method worked 100% of the time for me. I still may buy a prop puller though. There are several of us who work together on stuff and we share tools. I am new to group so I think I should do my part.

Who's bent? Just my opinion man. I call bull on your boat mechanic and his 90% claim. Its ok if you can get by with shadetree oakie mechanics, good for you. I believe in the right tool for the job thats all.

"Who's bent" You are. Calling me or the mechanic I know basically a liar.Quick and easy that's how I like it. I like to get the job done. I would rather not waste time running around buying and ordering tools I don't need. O and if you like I can put you in touch with this mechanic. He has no reason to lie. There is nothing in it for him. Hell if it would not have worked for me it would have cost him a trip to my house. If he did it your way he would not be riding until the middle of the week. My way he could have rode yesterday if he wanted.

I'd say it's definitely worth a try. But if it doesn't work, then you need a puller.

About 1/2 the time we've had to pull a prop, it was with the boat in the water. And using a hammer & lumber isn't likely to work in the water.

DO NOT USE ANYTHING ON A TAPERED DRIVE SHAFT!!!

Splines yes, you must use

Read up on what the USGC requires to install prop's on shaft.

What you want to use is lapping grease, to properly seat the prop onto the tapered shaft

Nettle props makes a really good one for about 60 bucks and it will work great on your 220.

What is the difference between lapping grease and anti-seize besides the obvious? Both are about equal in consistency. My Sanger came with nothing on the propshaft from the factory. Ive had my prop off numerous times with both nothing and anti-seize when I put it back on. And no noticable difference when I take it off the next time? What IS important with a tapered propshaft is that the prop is properly seated all the way up the taper, not whether or not you use a lube or anti-seize.

(Message edited by wake upppp on February 07, 2010)

When I did mine I did not use an excessive amount of anti-seize. I put a VERY thin layer on. As every one knows a little goes a long way with anti-seize. When I removed the factory prop it was dry. I would think if you put to much on it could lead to a problem on a tapered shaft(proper seating).

On a taper,(press fit), unless whatever material/lube you put on first has microspheres,(tiny microscopic balls, that would have to be very hard), its going to crush out upon tightening anyway.

It is a poor decision to use any type of compound on a tapered shaft. The fit needs to be true to ensure proper seating, which will ensure proper balance/wobble elimination. A film of any type of material places this true fit in peril. The use of lapping, or grinding compound, as mentioned above, is meant to be used before application: put a light coat of lapping compound on the shaft, then fit the prop onto the shaft without the key in place, and spin the prop a few times with light to medium pressure. After doing so, remove the prop and clean all compound off both the shaft and the prop hub.

Far be it from me to call anyone a liar, but in the 16 or so years I've been doing this, I'd give the "no puller" removal option about a 10 percent success rate. Granted, I'm not a huge fan of wailing away on an inboard's driveshaft to pop a stuck prop off.

I've taken off about a dozen props in my time from various boats, I wouldn't use anything else but a puller, I'm not a fan of hammering a prop due to the stress on the trans coupling and chance of missing and hitting the blade or hull on backswing. I am a clutz tho....
The prop on my 2001 required prop puller, heat and swearing to break it free.

I guess I'm the only one that has a spare prop+ puller in the boat at all times?

I have a spare prop, puller, hammer, wrench, key, and nut aboard or at the ramp at all times. Same as a spare tire.

Agree with Karl. Must have's and not just because we make them.

^^^Same as Karl here. Nicking a prop aint spoiling my day/weekend.

i borrowed one from the prop shop the first time.
then after than i put outboard lower end water proof grease on the prop shaft. and tighten put the prop on until tight (tapered shaft) then tighten the nut 1/2 to full turn. between the key, nut, and cotter pin it cant go anywhere.

then i could simply remove it with a hit of torch heat and a swing of the hammer. did this probly 10-12 times with no problems.

So is the correct way to break the prop free to hit it on the end of the shaft? I don't even want to say where I hit mine....

And I am talking about when using a prop puller.

My prop puller has a spot on the end of the threaded shaft you hit with the hammer after you tighten it.

also, never ever re-use the prop nut

if you used anit-sieze with copper in it and run in salt water, i bet that prop will be stuck on for its life

there is a huge 6 page report on props in powerboat building, must b a subscriber

even the USCG wrote a letter and showed the proper way!!

Ive reused the nut on my inboards before with no issues. Its torqued on with a cotter pin for safety just in case the nut wasnt tightened correctly. All they are is a standard threaded nut with a nylon insert to help keep it tight. Even if its been on and off enough to wear out the nylon, if torqued properly, Im betting its still not coming loose. Now if it was a crush type nut, thats different. Those are one use only. Replacing the nut every time on an inboard is just plain overkill. Cotter pin should be every time though.

that nyloc gets crushed every-time

it is in every factory manual, states not to re-use the nut

the cotter pin is the safety device so the nut does not fully back off

B.S. Nylon does not get crushed every time. They just want you to buy nuts!

look at a new nut

then look at the old one

so your telling us that it does not cut threads into the nylon??

Nope didnt say that. You can feel when the resistance from the nylon wears out and it aint after taking it off one time thats what Im saying.

it cuts new threads (on the nut)each time that nut is taken off then put back on. Just like the coupler nuts

It is a USCG reg, not to re-use prop nuts

so do what you guys want to do

i'm just stating the true facts

Replace your nuts after each use if it makes you feel better, its all good man.

nope

just do what was taught to me and follow regs by the book

there are tons of regs out there that even some of the boatbuilders forget about!!

main one is that no fuel line can be above the battery!

Never put anti-seize on the shaft. The prop is actually held onto the shaft by the taper, not the key. The key can't take that much stress if the taper doesn't do its job.

On topic, gear pullers work really well.

Justin, you made me curious. Where in the Coast Guard regs does it address the prop nut? Did I look in the wrong place?

http://law.justia.com/us/cfr/title33/33-2.0.1.8.44.html

When your prop pushes your 5,000 boat at 35 mph, the prop does so by pushing with all its might against the taper.

During those times, the most critical times, that nut is not serving any purpose.

its the reversing that throws props off shafts

your in the right place for regs

i have it in my ABYC training book

let me try to find the article on it

http://www.proboat.com/

issue 121 page 9 it has the proper nut installation protocol accepted by the American Boat & Yacht Council, which is greater than the USCG regs

i have to dig it out of my mags here, but i know i have it with my abyc guide

Man you guys are taking this way to far. Agreed with Sparky the nut does not need to be replaced every time and if anti-seize or grease etc is used on a tapered shaft it will get pushed out as Sparky said above. I reused mine and it had plenty of resistance left. Me and Sparky do agree on some things. My friend (marine tech) said he has seen props packed with grease on the inside and the customer said they never had any problems. He mentioned that he him self would never do that. He said he has seen several with anti-seize on them to and no issues. I guess the bottom line is there is moore than one way to do things and still get the same out come. It's your boat so do it your way.

Thank you Justin. I no longer doubt you have a credible source for your information and that you accurately know where to find it. So what does your source say about the anti-seize issue?

names Richie, LOL

they state NOTHING on TAPERED SHAFT, but splined shafts like mastercraft yes grease is OK

The whole thing about anti-seize, is that the automotive stuff has copper, and copper and other dis-similar metals in a marine (mainly saltwater) environment will cause galvanic corrosion. This is a nasty thing to have.

Blue-seas just put out a bulletin on adding fuses in to negative side of battery cables. If you guys did not know, the negative flows to the positive. Positive attracts the negative

I will try my best to get those things scanned in and put a post up

We have the whole back of the house apart and i had to move everything into my garage! I know where it is, it is just trying to get to it, LOL

I'm not arguing with anybody, i just follow the book

I never ever had a comeback in the years i have been fixing water toys, and i will keep it this way

Sometimes its better to rely on what you know, not what you see/read. I think you may have just jinxed yourself regarding "comebacks". I have worked on literally thousands of all types of vehicles in my career and cannot say Ive never had a single comeback...you are a mechanical god! (bow)

mechanically comebacks nope, none

I'm not a god, i follow the book and triple check my work, then do a 1 hr break down cruise

fueling yes, but thats mainly owners fault for not stabilizing fuel!!!

i did 3 repowers last year, boats are still high in comp numbers and run better then they did before!

I'm starting another 1 next week on a 40ft tolly

I'm already jinxed!! i was born on friday 13th!!! LOL