Trailer Help: Get trailer up high angle driveway?

The cross bar on my boat trailer that protects the prop sits so low that when I approach my moderate/high angle driveway, it digs into the concrete and I can't back it up anymore. I ended up putting a large piece of plywood under the crossbar and just forced it up the drive way until the trailer leveled out again. I've seen some trailers with rollers under these crossbars and I was wondering where I might be able to find them, or if there are any other suggestions? Thanks.

My driveway is super steep too, I would be open to any suggestions as well. I was thinking some trailer mod with some hefty casters, but would they be able to support the entire rear of the trailer? I think just about all 4 tires would have to completely come off the ground while the boat transitions from the street into the driveway...

That was a fun surprise after I bought my house.

your best bet will be to get a hold of some sturdy wood planks like some 2x8's place two or three on top of each other, spread out, nail them together, kind of like steps so that the whole thing is about 10-15 feet long(or however long enough to cut the angle off) Place them under the tires at the base of your driveeway and this will make the angle less steep allowing you to make the drive up. I did this with one boat I used to have and it worked great. Hopefully I made sense describing it.. This way you don't have to alter your trailer and it will be minimul on the cost.

Something like this for the span??




Haha looks like a 2 year old drew this. Anyway, I would think the wood span would need to look something like this to be strong enough and not interfere with fenders and such...




Anyone have pics of performing this operation? That would be awesome, pics of people's boats in precarious situations. Haha, anyway, recommendations on exactly how to build the span so that it will support a 3400 pound boat?

Man, I don't know if this will even work in my driveway.

http://www.dhmtrailers.com/online/home.php?cat=161

They have weld on ones, or bolt on. ... The angles are for their trailers, but all trailers are similar. If you are going to have them welded on, you can make the mods so they will fit at the same time.

Thanks Rob, that's pretty much what I was looking for. I didn't even think to mount like that. Here's another option. I called Extreme Custom Trailer and the parts guy said he'd send me the raw materials for about $20 plus s/h. They would charge over $200 to install but I've got a welder, chop saw, angle grinder, etc and would install myself. I'm just not sure I like the design and I wonder how long before it completely seizes up due to rust...it doesn't have bearings. http://www.extremetrailers.com/new/drive_guard_2.html

I worked for a guy who had this same problem. He had a unique solution to the problem. Kind of Red Neck, but he kept his boat in a boat house slip during the summer time, so he only backed it up his driveway once in the fall, then out in the spring.

He had a single axel trailer where the axel set on top of the springs. He removed the axel and reinstalled it below the springs. This gave him about 3-4 inches of additional height. If you do a lot of towing, you may not want the weight up that much higher. None the less, it's another option.

Now that I went back and read about the $20 retro-fit kit from Extreme, that sounds like a much better way to go. In fact, I may even get one of those kits for my Extreme. Not because I need it, just because.

Are those rollers meant for the occasional scrape action, or could they conceivably hold the entire back of the trailer up until the tires leveled out? I have an Extreme trailer as well.

P.S. I do love the redneck axle-swap idea. Haha.

I'll tell you this-if you would rather bank on some little wheel to hold your whole boat weight on as well as a thin metal bar that is only meant to protect the prop- then you are taking a gamble. But that is only my opinion!! Good luck, and hope it works!

That's funny, I just fabbed up some prop guard rollers last week. They weren't all that difficult, but I have a bunch of tools and a brake press at work. I'll take a pic and post later, if y'all promise not to make fun of my welding.

Here's a pic of the extreme trailer, so the roller would transfer load directly to that 2 x 4 box tubing which is integrated into the trailer. I mean, I guess I would feel comfortable jacking the whole rear of the trailer up on both sides where the rollers are located, so they should be able to support the boat as you go up the driveway. Only concern is that all the welds on my Extreme are total garbage. It's a 2001 and apparently who ever welded that day didn't grasp the concept of "penetration."

Here is a thread showing a trailer upgrade, looks like this set up could handle the weight of your trailer. Looks pretty stout.

http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/3183/271449.html?1135479004

How about using an adjustable height hitch so you can lower the tongue (thus raising the back) while going in and out of the driveway? You shouold be able to adust it while hooked to the vehicle using the tongue jack.

I'm just going to weld up some of those steel rollers. Because it's such a small moment that the rollers will actually be on the ground and the weight will only be about 2,000lbs (if that), I'm not worried about bending the 1/4" bar. The brackets that are made by DHM are pretty sweet, but then I'd have to modify those to match the angle of my prop guard, then buy the casters, so it's basically an easy of installation and cost issue. $70 for bracket and casters or $20 for steel roller and some stock. Good inputs guys, thanks again.

(Message edited by leblanc1 on April 27, 2006)

Just a heads-up.... those casters will leave marks on your driveway.

My driveway is pretty steep and short as well, but wide enough for two cars. I am able to back the boat in at an angle where one side goaes up on the driveway first. If I do it correctly, I can just get up without rubbing. If I am off a little, my trailer may rub for just an inch or two. When I first got home with the boat, I thought no way I am going to get into the garage, but I kept trying from different angles until I got it.

Hope this helps,
Jman

PS: I have a single axle trailer.

Raising your hitch will probably give you only a couple inches and by raising it, you lower the back end leaving it more prone to scraping. I like the setup on that last link. The plastic rollers probably won't last very long with frequent use, but they shouldn't do any damage to the driveway like the metal ones might do.

Have you played around with your approach angle? My folks have a very steep driveway and there's a technique to getting low-riding cars up and out of it. The driveway is so steep that a fully loaded truck will drag the bumper on the way up. I had to do this while backing my old I/O up. Haven't tried it with my Wakesetter...nor do I want to.. :-)

So the technique is to approach the drive way at a 45 degree angle, once the first wheel begins the climb then straighten out. This may not be practical to do with your driveway. But if you could solve your problem with a technique...maybe the simplest solution.

Had the same proble with my Extreme Trailer--need low pro kit to cleargarage door but what I have done to get it up the drive is:

1. 4" drop hitch
2. Use Craig's idea about the 45degree angle. Just got the boat and am still practicing with this one--takes a little time to get the right angle but it works!

My last house had a super steep driveway and both boat trailers I had while we lived there I had DHM put the wheels on the prop cage.. This is the best way to go and they are great people to deal with..
My driveway was so steep, all the trailer wheels would lift off the ground while it was backing up the driveway.. All the weight of the boat was on the rollers and the tongue. I never had a problem doing this.
Call George at DHM and tell him what you're doing and he'll hook you up..

Here's what I did. I need to cut the skids off now because they still hit sometimes on steeper angles, but otherwise they work great.