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Old     (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       05-05-2007, 1:24 PM Reply   
I backed my 4,500 pound boat into my Shred Stixx Jamako! This board is NOT the Poly U core and Polyester resin model. Using a polyester resin based repair can cause further damage. In this repair I'm going to show my procedure for working with epoxy and glass.

The project:

Old     (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       05-05-2007, 1:36 PM Reply   
It's a little hard to see, but I actually broke the stringer. The deck of the board remained intact, but the bottom was severly cracked exposing the blank and as I indicated above the stringer was broken.

If this were a more minor repair without any delamination or structural damage some epoxy with microballoons would, no doubt, have been sufficient. I wanted to add some structural integrity to ensure I didn't snap the nose off in use.

I opted to epoxy a e-glass fiberglass patch over the offending area.

The first step is to prepare the area. Much like body work, I carefully pulled the dented out as close as possible to it's original shape. Including twisting the nose back into alignment. Then I sanded the entire area to give the epoxy and patch a good grip. Finally wiping the surface down with a tack rag to remove any dust. It's not a good picture, but the prepped board.

Old     (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       05-05-2007, 1:44 PM Reply   
The supplies for the epoxy. My favorite for mixing is a paper plate :-) Toss it when done. :-) I also mix with a tongue depressor. I also split one depressor in to a tool I could use to force epoxy into the gap in the stringer and under the sections of the break that had delaminated from the core.

Old     (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       05-05-2007, 1:56 PM Reply   
I had a scrap of e-glass left over from a project, but it is easy to acquire at places like Tap Plastics. This piece was 3.7 oz and will be adequate for a patch. I prefer to leave the existing board intact and merely overlay, rather than cutting back the damaged glass. Personally I am all thumbs, so I do more damage when trying to cut back and fill in :-)

When working with fiberglass...gloves will save you from itching later and sharp pinking sheers will leave a smooth edge for laminating.

Old     (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       05-05-2007, 2:00 PM Reply   
I cut a patch big enough to cover the entire area, including wrapping around the rails.

Old     (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       05-05-2007, 2:13 PM Reply   
It seems I didn't get a picture, but I mixed the 1 hour epoxy and then worked carefully under the cracked existing fiberglass, as well as down into the split in the stringer. To ensure that I wouldn't have any water seeping into the crack, I ran a bead of epoxy along the cracks before laying down my patch. I spread a very thin layer of epoxy down on the surface.

Here I have laid down the patch and started wetting it and working the epoxy into the glass and removing excess.

Old     (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       05-05-2007, 2:17 PM Reply   
All laminated and curing. After the epoxy is fully cured I'll sand it smooth and then polish it as best I can. :-)



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