10" JL Subs for small space. which one?

I have tried reading in past posts and reading a little bit on JL's website, but need a little bit of help.

i have a '02 xstar and was planning on building a box that can fit 2 10's in front of the drivers feet. i have not measured anything yet, but was told that a box could be built for 2 10's behind the existing wall.

which 10's are better for that small of an enclosure? i dont understand the difference between all the #'s.....w3's, w7's, etc.

any help is appreciated.

I have been looking at doing the same thing but with only one JL 10 in my 1999 X-Star.

The difference is in the power handeling and price. The W0's are going for about $100 each, the W3v2 are about $170ish each. I haven't really looked into either of the W6 models.

W0 - 250 max rms
W3v2 - 500 max rms
w6ae - 500 max rms
w6v2 - 750 max rms

So if you really want to run two, you should figure out how large of an amp you have and buy subs that are around the max rms output of the amp.

The JLs are available in different ohm loadings as well, so there are quite a few different configurations you can do. Look at the bottom of page 2 on this link for an example.

http://jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/10W3v2_MAN.pdf

10w3 and the 10w6 are both great. many people actually like the 10w3 better. i have a 12w3 in my car and it sounds excellent.

I found that Dayton speakers from PartsExpress have a recommended box size of .35 for sealed and .6 for ported. I went with 2 10" Quatro in a box behind the drivers seat of my SAN and they sound pretty damn good.

Chris
No Slip Gator Grip
www.wakejunky.com

big poppa - i am probably gonna buy a new amp to go with it. unless my phoenix gold tantrum 500.2 can handle pushing 2 subs. can it??? so, i am up for anything. depending on how much of a difference in prices they are, i would rather go with something that will better suit the small space i am putting it in.

thats the help i am looking for. does anyone know which ones i should get if i want to put two of them in a small space? like i said, i havent measured it yet. if that info is needed for anyone to help me out, i will get it.

chris - never heard of them before. on a side note, you know when you will get the blue gator grip in stock?


(Message edited by mossy44 on August 15, 2003)

another quick question...

can my phoenix gold 500.2 push two subs like i mentioned before, and could the 600.4 push a pair of B530's AND a pair of B60's??

Matt, you are somewhat on the borderline here.

If it were me, I would be running that amp bridged and getting 500 x 1 channel @ 4 ohms out of it.

Looking at the chart, you could push 2 of the 10W0 subs right to the max recommended rms so you would be rocking them nicely with that amp. I think it is always good to have a little more amp than needed, you can always turn the gain down to save the subs if its too hard.

Also, be aware that JL is rating these with the rms values, and not the cheesier "max value that the speaker can handle for 2 minutes before it starts on fire" values. So you still have a little safety factor.

So if you really want to run 2, I would get two of the 10W0-8 (-8 means 8 ohm) and run them in parallel so the amp "sees" a 4 ohm load. You will need an enclosure that is 1 cu ft to 1.8 cu ft in volume for two of those subs.

If space is an issue, you might think of going with just one of the 10W3v2-D2 which is a 4 ohm sub (because of dual voice coils). Your box would only need to be half as large. You could go with 2 of these if you have the extra $$ but you would then want the 10W3v2-D4, this would be very safe for the subs, but they would just start to break a light sweat when that amp is giving it everything its got.

So all things considered, if I were really going to go with 2, I would save some $$ and get the W0.

Also, there is a a lot of room up high behind the kick panel. You might think of building your box with an angled back so that it is short down low, and then takes advantage of the space available up higher.

***Disclaimer***

These are my best guestimates. So if you get different advice from someone who sounds more knowledgeable...take it.

thanks for the help chaun. there was one other question i had. do you think the 600.4 can push the b530's and a pair of b60's?

The 10W3v2's should work well in a box with 500 watts going to them. Continuous power handling for those is 300 watts and you would have 250 running to each one, so it should work well. You would only need about a 1.5 cu ft. box, so they won't take up much room at all. I have the 12w3v2's and love them.

You would need a much bigger amp if you go with the W6's. The best price I have found on these subs is here: http://www.woofersetc.com/product.asp?0=314&1=318&3=1471

thanks guys. i went with the 10W3v2's. i already have the 500.2 that i can push them with. does anyone disagree with that?

now, for the hard part. building the box. thanks for the help.

can anyone answer my tower speaker question??

(Message edited by mossy44 on August 18, 2003)

Matt,

I don't know much about the B530's or the B60s. What you need to look at is the ohm loading of the speakers.

Running speakers in parallel decreases the ohm loading whereas running them in series increases it.

Here are some examples (This is for two speakers on one channel *side* only):

--------------

Parallel:

8 ohm + 8 ohm = 4 ohm load
4 ohm + 4 ohm = 2 ohm load

Series:

2 ohm + 2 ohm = 4 ohm
4 ohm + 4 ohm = 8 ohm

-----------------

Your 600.4 is rated as follows:

75W x 4 (4 ohm stereo)
300W x 2 (4ohm bridged)

So if your b530s and b60s are all 4 ohms, then you will be putting 75 watts to each of them if you run 4 separate channels. 75 watts is ok, but is not really going to get everything out of those tower speakers, you may want to bridge that 600.4 and just run either the b530s or the b60s.

Bridged, your amp will still be at 4 ohms but if you want to run both sets then your speakers will either be at 8 ohms or 2 ohms which puts you in a bind somewhat.

You may want to investigate some different ohm loadings on the tower speakers, or perhaps look into a two channel amp that is 2 ohm stable.

Again, I am not too familiar with the Boss tower speakers so someone please correct me if I am wrong on any of this.


--------------

Brent,

Good link for the JL subs, that is the cheapest I have seen them. I just bought 3 10W3v2's this weekend for $180 a piece at a local dealer.

I figured mail order I would have to pay $15-$25 in shipping for each one + I get the warranty so felt pretty good about the deal.

(Message edited by big_poppa_pump on August 18, 2003)

Correct me if I'm wrong...but I thought that JL's warranty hinged on where you had them installed, not where you purchased them? If you bought them online, but then had them installed at a local dealer/shop I think they warranty is still intact?

i didnt even look into that before i purchased them, but still....does that mean that i have to go to a shop that deals JL stuff? a buddy who owns a stero install shop doesnt sell JL stuff, so that means it would void any warranty?

You get a 90 day warrenty from JL if you decide to install yourself AND purchase from an authorized dealer.

Its 1 year if you purchase AND have installed at and authorized JL dealer.

So it seems like the key here is "authorized JL dealer".


Here is the text straight off the owner's manual:

"JL AUDIO warrants this speaker to be free of defects in materials and workmanship for a period of one (1) year from the original date of purchase, contingent upon installation
being performed or approved by an authorized JL AUDIO dealer, in writing, on the original sales receipt. If the preceding condition is not met, the warranty term is
limited to ninety (90) days from the original purchase date.
This warranty is not transferrable and applies only to the original purchaser of the product from an authorized JL AUDIO dealer."

"or approved by an authorized JL AUDIO dealer"