Looking At an '87 Nautique 2001 today....

Anyone got any pointers on what to look out for?

It'd be my first wakeboat, and I'm trying to get in on the sub 40k boat range, but still have some fun!

Thanks

Eric

I would look at the stringers first especially where the motor mounts up. I have a buddy that has an 82 Nautique 2001. I will ask him if he has any advice. He bought one of those fat seats and set that in the back to replace his bench and some lead weight up front and it throws a nice wake.

check out the2001.com there is alot of helpful advice on there. i remember something about turning a certain bolt and if it just spins that your stringers would be replaced, however i dont recall which one it is so thats no help to you. check out that site, anything you could ever wanna know about the boat is on there.

try to turn the bolts. if they turn and don't tighten up, you may have rotten stringers. engine and hull in good shape?

the engine mounts bolt to the the stringers, on either side of the engine. try to tighten them

(Message edited by denverd1 on April 02, 2007)

thanks nacho for clarifying, i always wondered which bolts people were talking abotu

I checked out the site, but everything seemed pretty old...

Boat is an 87, red/white, 325 hours, 5.8L motor, original owner until 1 year ago, I'd be 3rd. interior is supposedly very clean, hull has no scratches, but stickers are peeling and teak needs to be redone. Also rear seat is missing.

owner is asking approx 7500$

good deal?

you are looking in the sub 40k range and looking at an 87 SN2001? No offense to the 2001, but there are probably some other boats you might want to consider if that is your price range.

No, no not what I meant....

It's either going to be one way or the other.. Take the approx 7500 that I was going to use for a down payment, and buy a boat that has already depreciated and probably won't drop much in value over the few years I'll own it, or finance somethig else and make payments for the next umpteen years.

Trust me, I realize that there's a h*ll of a lot of boats out there that are sub 40k, but then I'm looking at financing, interest, increased depreciation, etc.

Thanks for the comment though.

eric

ah, gotcha. I'd bet you can get the boat you mentioned above for cheaper than that then. there is one i found on my site for 9k that looks totally redone. as resale goes you probably wouldn't lose much if anything if you keep it in great shape.

OnlyInboards -
I saw the one on your site that was redone and it is very clean.. It's an 83 vs this one which is an 87, and it's in texas while this one is in my backyard (actually, only 1 city over) and I think boats in CA usually go for a bit more than most other places...

I'm just going to look at it with an open mind this afternoon and go from there.

Thanks for the tips though!

Eric

If you’re considering the purchase of a Ski Nautique 2001 (Produced from 1982 – 1989), or another older Correct Craft, this article will give you some general information about things that you should check for before making your purchase. This article is not meant to include all items that should be checked during a used boat pre-purchase inspection. It is meant to point out possible trouble areas in older Correct Crafts. These checks should be performed along with any other necessary inspections when looking over a used boat.



All 2001 series Correct Crafts used wood in their construction, which can deteriorate over time if not kept in check. Well-maintained boats can still be found showing no signs of problems related to the wood used in their construction, but it is always a good idea to check the items listed below if you’re considering a 2001, or another Correct Craft built before 1993. Correct Craft stopped using wood in their construction in 1993.



The following steps should be completed

when inspecting a Pre-1993 Correct Craft for purchase:


* Open the engine cover, and you'll notice hex-head bolts, probably about 4 on each side, running parallel to the engine on the edge of the floor, on the edge of the engine compartment. These are lag bolts screwed right into the wooden stringers. Bring a socket wrench with you and try to tighten each one. They should still bite into the wood well. If they spin freely, the boat probably has some deterioration of the wood in the stringers.



These bolts also continue to the back of the boat under a removable floor piece that covers the prop shaft. Spin those also. Engine mount bolts are also a good indicator, as these attach to wooden mounts as well.

* Walk around on the floor and feel for soft spots. This isn't as big a deal as the stringers, but is still a big job to fix.

* Often when you see a boat with a replaced engine, it's due to improper winterization. When I was shopping around, almost every early 90's SN I came upon in the north had a new engine or short block.

* Drive the boat! The engine should idle smoothly and run hard up to 4400 rpm on the water.

* Make sure the oil pan isn't too rusty- replacing this involves removing the engine from the boat.

* Look in the bilge for fresh oil spots, as this could be a sign of leakage.

* The transmission should shift smoothly, and transmission oil should be clean. The transmissions on these boats are fairly expensive to replace.
http://www.planetnautique.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=PostWrap&file=index&pa ge=http://www.planetnautique.com/CorrectCraftManuals/2001.htm

Buy it! I love mine, that boat is great, the 82' 2001 was the boat I was riding when I learned all 5 of my flips. Pretty much any Intermediate trick can be done behind it. Don't be afraid to weight it down, I usually put 800lbs. in mine, mostly in the back. Stringers can be fixed, mine have been in bad shape for about three hard seasons now.