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03-06-2008, 5:09 AM
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Keep in mind that I HATE wood, but this board is so gorgeous: http://www.hesssurfboards.com/pacheco_quad.html It has a birch skin - I'm sure paneling or something - does anyone know a good source and what thickness the stuff comes in?
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Join Date: Apr 2007
03-06-2008, 5:59 AM
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Jeff, a lot of custom door and cabinet shops use thin veneers. I have seen them as thin as 1/32", (or thinner) but most common are 1/16" to 1/8". You might check with some of your local shops, or look for a specialty hardwood supplier in your area. That is a beautiful board, and I love wood (Message edited by rio_sanger on March 06, 2008)
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03-06-2008, 7:09 AM
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Chris! Not you too, another wood lover! The look is sweet, no doubt about it. I've looked at veneer sites online and many of the products seem to have a paper backing. I'm concerned that I won't get a good bond between the EPS/fiberglass sandwich layer/paper backing. I just don't know enough about that crazy wood stuff.
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Join Date: Feb 2006
03-06-2008, 8:36 AM
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Jeff - that does look beautiful. Many of the boards you see coming out of Asia that look like wood (Surftech and so forth) are just paper under the cloth that looks like wood. I don't claim to know all the details, but that is what they do.
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Join Date: Apr 2007
03-06-2008, 10:47 AM
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Jeff ~ been working with wood for 40 years, the first surfboard I built was solid balsa wood with a double redwood stringer, a mahogany fin, and a mahogany and ash tailblock. It snapped in half in some big surf, so I made it into a bellyboard... good times at age 15
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Join Date: Aug 2002
03-06-2008, 6:38 PM
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Here's our Red Woody, we use a 1/32 veneer in our wood lock technology.
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Join Date: Oct 2005
03-06-2008, 7:05 PM
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That I.S. is such a classy looking board. Great job on this design Jeff. I LOVE the wood look.
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Join Date: Feb 2006
03-06-2008, 7:14 PM
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The real wood veneer on the I.S. boards looks great! (besides the added strength).
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03-07-2008, 5:00 AM
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The wood grain sure looks good on the Woody. Jeff, is it straight wood? No paper or other material backing? Everything I find seems to have a heat sensitive backing material or some other stuff. Chris, I can remember the solid balsa - always reminded me of a dugout canoe. How much did that baby weigh? There are a few companies that still sell solid balsa blanks and even some cutom wood fins. Pretty pricey, but what a great look. You don't happen to have any pictures of you and the board do you? That would be great to see.
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Join Date: Apr 2007
03-07-2008, 6:09 AM
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Jeff~ No, I wish I had pics of a lot of stuff I used to make. Yes boards back then were heavy, even foam boards. Remember, they were average 9' - 10'6", and THICK! We used to carry the boards on homemade trailers that we towed behind our bicycles, then carry the boards on our heads down to the surf. ...we could knee paddle them though hahaha
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03-07-2008, 7:36 AM
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Too funny about the trailers. We met up with Dennis...shoot it must be a year ago October down around - Hunington Beach? I think...anyway, I carried a modren longboard from the parking lot out past the jetty and it about gave me a coronary! I can't imagine carrying one of those solid wood boards. How did you shape it? It seems that it would be mostly carving or whittling. Did you have access to an electric planer, as a teenager? I always wondered, were they glassed, or just a varnish of some sort?
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Join Date: Apr 2007
03-07-2008, 11:15 AM
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Jeff, just sent you a PM
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03-08-2008, 6:00 AM
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Hey Chris, thanks! I saw that you've written, I haven't read it fully yet, but will this evening when we return from the snow. Thanks for the trip down memory lane.
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03-13-2008, 5:37 AM
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I hate working with wood! I do, however, love the look of the finished product. What about a solid balsa board? Chris does that make you want to break out the tools? Chris, Ed or other woodworkers - how are those inlays at the nose done?
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Join Date: Feb 2005
03-13-2008, 9:04 AM
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I've never done that kind of work. It would help to have a joiner, mine is broken.
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03-19-2008, 10:36 AM
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Have I mentioned that I hate working with wood! Ok, so I want to create a "blank" with perimeter stringers - that is they will follow the outline of the board but be inset from the rails about an inch or so. My issue is that I can't find the material (e.wood) in lengths long enough to spane the entire length of the board - with the slight curve this application will require. I know that a simple butt joint is inadequate, if an appropriate term. I don't know what this gaping teeth like pattern is called - but if I join the wood like this, will this somehow improve the structural integrity of the joint? If NOT, any recommendations?
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Join Date: Apr 2007
03-19-2008, 1:26 PM
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Jeff, those are likely not "inlays" meaning if you turn that board over the dark wood goes all the way through. It would be clamped up prior to shaping. I'm a bit puzzled that you can't find wood for your stringers to run the length of the board? I can find wood 20' long, that must be one looong board you're making Help me out with your question again. Also your drawing would be a very very difficut joint to achieve, and not necessary. Chris
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03-19-2008, 1:39 PM
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Gotta love you woodworkers...so you think that is just a section of a darker wood placed in there - cool! Back to the stringers - I want to use basswood for the stringer - 1/8" and it needs to be around 5 feet in length and 3" - 4" wide. I can find basswood at the local hobby shops, but the max length is 48"...even online the max length I've been able to locate is that 4' length...Oh master of wood (evil stuff that it is) where might be a good source - if you're going to name a specific name - best PM me, if it's generic (ie Lumber Yard) that would be cool to post here. If I can find a 5' length then I don't need to create the joint...which does NOT hurt my feelings! Thanks Chris.
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Join Date: Apr 2007
03-19-2008, 2:06 PM
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Oh Basswood, yeah I forgot those trees only grow to four feet tall Jeff if it's all you can find, just splice it (cut it on a diagonal) once your all glued up and sanded down you will probably not be able to detect the joint (pick similar grain and color)
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03-19-2008, 2:12 PM
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I thought that was the case! Stupid Basswood anyway So just a diagonal cut - 45 degrees enough do you think? Or do I need to go more like 60 degrees? I have a pretty good selection of wood, so matching shouldn't be an issue. Thanks again
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Join Date: Feb 2005
03-19-2008, 2:18 PM
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You can get longer lengths but it should be more expensive. Four foot is standard for bass and balsa. In had 5 foot lengths on order but I canceled the order because I was going to die of old age before it shipped.
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Join Date: Apr 2007
03-19-2008, 2:41 PM
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I'd go 60 degrees, but 45 will work
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03-19-2008, 3:40 PM
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Ed, Where did you find the 5 foot length? This is a nuisance - can you PM the name of the source please? Unless you are their mortal enemy! Thanks Chris, I think I may just opt for the 60 degree cut up at the nose where the joint won't matter.
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Join Date: Jan 2003
03-19-2008, 3:41 PM
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60 degrees or more if you can, the more degrees you use the less you are glueing endgrain.
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Join Date: Jan 2003
03-19-2008, 3:41 PM
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60 degrees or more if you can, the more degrees you use the less you are glueing endgrain.
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Join Date: Feb 2005
03-19-2008, 6:15 PM
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Jeff, I'd like to help you but I'm not sure that I'm permitted to do so. By posting a link to a company selling balsa wood I might be violating WW posting guidelines.
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Join Date: Feb 2005
03-19-2008, 6:18 PM
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I just checked the web site. They only sell 48 inch balsa. Sorry.
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03-19-2008, 6:31 PM
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You can't PM? Does WW take over your email too? Oh and on top of it all you LIED! You woodworkers are a devious bunch. Ok so the basswood tree only grows to 48"?
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