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Go Back   WakeWorld > >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive > Archive through July 21, 2006

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Old     (michale)      Join Date: May 2004       06-19-2006, 3:13 PM Reply   
Gary just sent me a new paddle wheel and module. 1st day it worked great. Now the set speed is 22 and the actual speed (according to the display) goes from 22 to 24.6 in a split second and sometimes the # sign comes on the display even when the actual speed (according to the display) is higher then the set speed. Anyone else have this problem. I did the old Microsoft fix all reboot Ctrl-Alt-Delete reset and it didn't fix it. Thanks, M.
Old     (trash)      Join Date: Jul 2001       06-20-2006, 8:56 AM Reply   
Is your paddlewheel also connected to your speedometers? Can you disconnect your speedometers and just run with your perfect pass and see if it works?

If it's like mine, the speedos would work, or the perfect pass would work, but not both hooked up at the same time. I build a small hunk of electronics to fix the problem, and now everything runs like it should

Trash
Old     (fish6942)      Join Date: Dec 2005       06-20-2006, 9:49 AM Reply   
Trash - What was the incompatibility between the two? I haven't looked at the signal from the paddle wheel, but I'm assuming it's a square wave from a Hall effect sensor. Was the problem with how each device handled the pull-up on the signal wire? I'm installing mine in the next few days and was planning to connect both directly to the speed signal.
Old     (trash)      Join Date: Jul 2001       06-20-2006, 10:00 AM Reply   
Hi Paul,

Yes, the problem is that the paddlewheel is either open-collector (or open emitter, can't remember), and the perfect pass module was pulling up(or down) against my speedometers. You can actually see it because the output signal drops substantially. At some point either PP or the speedos can't resolve the signal and (on mine anyways), the perfect pass would cut out for no apparent reason, or the speedos would fluctuate wildly.

I'm a techie, so I problem-solved this by bringing a scope into the boat and measuring the paddlewheel output while underway. Once I figured out what was going on, I built an isolation circuit so that the speedo signal to the PP is buffered from the speedo signal to the speedometers. Not a glitch since, and signal is strong at both ends.

Trash
Old     (trash)      Join Date: Jul 2001       06-20-2006, 10:03 AM Reply   
As an aside, PP sells something (basically a zener diode) to band-aid this quirk, but my research (and opinion) is that it still may not fix it. My solution is an active circuit that actually fixes the problem by splitting the paddlewheel signal and buffering so this contention does not occur.

Trash
Old     (michale)      Join Date: May 2004       06-20-2006, 10:59 AM Reply   
My paddle wheel is hooked up directly to the p.p. module. My spedo is a pitot.My boat is a 25' 3,800# m.c. with 3,000# of ballast. What would you recommend for the nn and kdw settings?
Old     (noti_dad)      Join Date: Jul 2003       06-22-2006, 8:36 PM Reply   
You might want to check this out and ask your dealer or PP about it. I was told the # sign meant the system was trying to override the throttle and didn't have enough room/more throttle needed to be given. Mine was doing the same sort of thing. Something with new version of PP and TBW.
http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/3183/338022.html?1150923377

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