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Join Date: Mar 2003
02-01-2006, 3:10 PM
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We are moving into a different building next month and I tried to pull the boat in a few days ago and what a nightmare. When the truck was going up the ramp the rear of the trailer was dragging bad on the concrete, then when the truck was in the building and the trailer on the ramp the bottom of the trailer was dragging so bad on the ramp we had to put like four 2x4's under the tires to raise it enough to get it in. I'm hoping it comes out easier the other direction and then I can just back it in but wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem and has any ideas.
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Join Date: May 2004
02-01-2006, 3:17 PM
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try using a drop hitch and see what happens. you coudl always add caster wheel to it. There have been a few threads on this over the last few months.
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Join Date: Dec 2005
02-01-2006, 4:01 PM
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get a lift kit for ur truck and trailer
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Join Date: Jul 2004
02-01-2006, 4:08 PM
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A little oversight in the planning committee Bill? I think Adam is on the right path, both with the drop hitch and casters.....regardless of what you do, that slope is still going to be difficult to manuver. Any way to extend that ramp out?
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02-01-2006, 4:17 PM
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Bill, Do you own a fork lift ? If so drill a hole in one of the forks and mount a trailer ball then you can bring the boat in and out with the fork lift.
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Join Date: Dec 2003
02-01-2006, 4:53 PM
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The ramp doesn't look that bad. It really sounds like you should lower the hitch. My 2cents
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Join Date: Apr 2003
02-01-2006, 5:05 PM
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ask grant i think he put rollers on the back of his from what i remmember he also had some pics
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Join Date: Feb 2001
02-01-2006, 5:57 PM
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Sounds like the rollers on the back of the trailer are what your looking for Bill. Plenty of people have posted pics and directions for these. They were having the exact same problem as you.
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Join Date: Mar 2003
02-01-2006, 8:53 PM
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I forgot to mention the trailer does have metal rollers on the prop guard but it must have put a lot of load on them as they left a defined grooves where they hit at the truck was going up the ramp. This makes me think to lower the hitch. I think I can put better casters on to solve it tearing up the concrete. The bigger problem happened when the truck was in the building and the trailer was getting to the top of the ramp. The front cross beam (or at least that’s what I'll call it) hangs below the trailer frame and hit the ground about 6' before it got to the top of the ramp. It ground in worse as I tried to "drag it in" with the Ram 3500 diesel until the tires on the truck started spinning. That's when I figured I better get out some wood to raise the trailer up as it goes up the ramp. I put the 2x4's under the wheels and it still rubbed but made it in. This would mean to raise the hitch for clearance. It seems the dynamics would be the same going up or down the ramp. Does anyone know if it's different? I wish I had tried to back it in to see if it was any different. As soon as my boat is not trapped from the move I'm going to figure it out and maybe I'll have the first trailer with a 6" lift! I can’t think of anything else that would help. Or maybe that's a new product idea, a hydraulic drop hitch to raise or lower the ball as needed for steep ramps :-) Good idea on the forklift but we don’t use one much. What we do have is a dinosaur on its last leg and I don’t think it could even get itself up the ramp. I probably can't change the ramp or entry so if backing it in is the same then maybe lifting the trailer is the only option. When we rented the building I just ASSUMED it would be easy to use the ramp to get boats in and out. (Message edited by MonsterTower on February 01, 2006)
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Join Date: Sep 2004
02-01-2006, 9:10 PM
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I have always wondered if it would be possible to put airbags on a trailer to lift and drop it as wanted. I wouldnt imagaine a trailer with a 6" lift would tow to well
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02-02-2006, 6:31 AM
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A drop hitch might do the trick. You might also could try using a HILO if possible.
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Join Date: Jul 2002
02-02-2006, 6:57 AM
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Bill, you have a real problem that doesn't have an easy fix. And it won't really matter if you pull it up or back up the boat. The drop hitch solves half the problem and then makes it worse for your trailer cross member as you get closer to the top. The fork lift would have been the perfect solution- you could raise and lower the hitch height as the boat moves up the ramp. Otherwise I think your only solution is to modify the ramp angle transitions- more concrete or what you have started doing- make a wooden ramp. This will have to be moved as you go up the ramp or you need two. Another way to look at this- the ramp angle is not the problem. It is the change in angle that creates the problem. You have one problem going from the parking lot or driveway to the ramp and another problem going from the ramp into the building. So unless the angle changes very gradually, you're screwed.
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Join Date: May 2003
02-02-2006, 7:09 AM
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a lift kit on the trailer might help getting in and out of the warehouse, but what would it do for launching? If the boat sits even 6" higher, how much farther back do you have do drop in to get it off the trailer. I don't know but make sure you factor that into the solution.
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Join Date: May 2004
02-02-2006, 7:27 AM
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How much lift do you need? if it's only a few inches,coudl you do some triming of the fender wells and put bigger tires on? I lifted my old trailer by having new spindels welded on. I ahev a boatmate trailer now that uses some sort of torsion bar setup? Have you looked for any ways to adjust yours?
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Join Date: May 2004
02-02-2006, 11:12 AM
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http://www.powermoverinc.net/ maybe buy the drop hitch attachment and swop over half way up the ramp. Otherwise... possibly just get some bigger lumps of wood and utilise all that HEMI power
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Join Date: Jun 2005
02-02-2006, 12:04 PM
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Monster- Have you tried out these rv blocks? You can pull the trailer up the ramp till it gets to where it will hit on your crossmember and then add theses blocks under your wheels to raise it up as you go inside. Sounds like a pain but might be easier than doing some of the other things.
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Join Date: Jul 2001
02-02-2006, 12:51 PM
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extend the ramp and write it off
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Join Date: Feb 2001
02-02-2006, 1:12 PM
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My guess is Bill you will be working on customers boats so you realy need a fix for the ramp and not just for your trailer? Why not build custom wood inserts at the bottom and the top so the angle would be more gradual? This is the whole reason they started coming out with arched loading ramps for trucks, cycles, tractors, atv's, bottoming out was the problem. Fill in some at the bottom and add some extra arch to the ramp at the top. I think it will take some measuring of your trailers dimensions from the front crossmember to the rear casters to get the right lengths/angles.
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Join Date: Dec 2005
02-02-2006, 1:40 PM
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time for the monster fork lift complete with tower, board racks and quad db675's ;) you could write it off. and better yet, for publicity you could have the monster races and race the monster lawnmower against the monster forklift
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Join Date: Feb 2005
02-02-2006, 2:07 PM
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Hey i know where you are coming from 90% of the trailers here in australia have nylon wheels at the back of the trailer near the prop guard which support the whole wheight when going up and down ramps like that. i suggest replacing the metal ones with nylon or some other plastic.
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Join Date: Aug 2001
02-03-2006, 9:41 AM
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use the forklift.
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Join Date: Aug 2004
02-03-2006, 11:34 AM
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we put a 2" block lift on our T/A DHM trailer last year. Only took a few hours to do and it cost 100-150 bucks or so, I can't remember. The trailer still tows the same and it has enabled us to use a drop hitch now so we only scrap for a few inches not 20 feet.We couldn't have just used a drop hitch because just like in the picture posted above, that front cross section would have hit.
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Join Date: Jul 2005
02-03-2006, 11:55 AM
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Hey Pat,I've got that brand trailer.Which block kit did you get ?I think 2" would suit my needs.Sorry for the hijack. Jerry
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Join Date: May 2004
02-03-2006, 12:04 PM
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I've seen lots of trailers on air suspension. They used to be the trend at a lot of truck shows. All the trailers I ever saw were bagged in order to lower the trailer, but there's no reason to think that the same principle couldnt apply to lifting the trailer. However, 90%+ of the bagged trailers I've seen carried choppers or streetbikes, not 5000 lbs of boat. I have seen one bagged trailer carrying a full size pickup, and one carrying a boat, so it can be done, but I'm sure it isn't cheap. -Steve Just to give you an idea:
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Join Date: Apr 2002
02-03-2006, 12:27 PM
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Bill, You can design a tower but you can't figure out how to get your boat up into your building?? Not impressed. It's obvious you need a shorter boat so it won't drag up the ramp. Maybe something like this little beauty. yee haa.
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Join Date: Feb 2006
02-03-2006, 1:13 PM
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Simple answer...Just drive much faster...it will all work out!!! I promise.
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Join Date: Dec 2003
02-03-2006, 2:23 PM
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"The front cross beam (or at least that’s what I'll call it) hangs below the trailer frame and hit the ground about 6' before it got to the top of the ramp. It ground in worse as I tried to "drag it in" with the Ram 3500 diesel until the tires on the truck started spinning." Since you make towers you probably already realize this, but have you checked the welds on your trailer since you dragged it?
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Join Date: Feb 2005
02-03-2006, 3:37 PM
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Along the fork truck lines... but a tractor with a 3-point hitch and tow bar combo would easily do it. Even a small tractor. Don't know if you have a tractor or access to one though.
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Join Date: Aug 2004
02-03-2006, 3:48 PM
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jerry, I don't want to hi-jack this thread so I have e-mailed you at the address listed in your profile.
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Join Date: Oct 2005
02-03-2006, 6:07 PM
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We got an adjustable hitch. you can lower or raise it with a socket wrench. by Master Lock ADJUSTABLE HEIGHT BALL MOUNT Adjusts from 7-3/4" drop to 6-1/4" rise Adjustable while trailer is attached Capacity: 5000 lb., 500 lb. tongue Powder coated/chrome plated steel Adjustable height, zero tilt 1" shank diameter, Class III Fits 2"x 2" receivers Helps prevent sway-vehicle handles better
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Join Date: Mar 2005
02-04-2006, 6:52 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2003
02-05-2006, 4:44 AM
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Thanks for the ideas and I need to find a fast/cheap answer for the short term so I'll be collecting up wood from my carpenter buddies. I really dont want to spend a lot as I've learned even thought you may be able to write something off (which is nice) the bill still comes and has to be paid! Once we get moved in I'm going to have some time to figure it out. I think a front bumper mouted hitch would help and they can be had pretty cheap but then it would be a pain turning the truck around every time it goes in or out. I was hoping there was an obvious, easy and cheap way to do this that I was overlooking. I need an "easy button".
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Join Date: Mar 2005
02-05-2006, 6:06 AM
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easy button is there it just links to a new piece of equipment, a new fork lift or an overgrown riding lawn mower or a storage facility. Lease a fork lift I worked at a place that used a pc. of rectangle steel tube that fit over the fork put a ball at one end and shot pin thru the tube and fork for the other . worked great easy on and off. (sorry the easy and cheap button does not work)
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Join Date: Feb 2002
02-05-2006, 7:34 AM
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I have seen a trailer that they attached casters to the front beam because he was having the same problem. Worked great.
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Join Date: Mar 2002
02-05-2006, 7:56 AM
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ok
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Join Date: Apr 2005
02-05-2006, 10:27 AM
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Bill, I used to weld trailers in my younger days and our warehouse ramp had the same problem your having. Simple cheap solution is go to a steel shop and extend your ramp. 3-4 properly cut I beams and a long piece of sheet metal. Just make sure you anchor your beams to the concrete and your sheet metal to the beams. But it should be a cheap and fairly permanant fix!
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Join Date: Oct 2005
02-06-2006, 2:53 PM
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That'd be my suggestion...especially if you plan on having different boats in and out of the building. It'd be a lot easier to modify your ramp than every trailer that comes in the door over the years. It probably wouldn't be as expensive as you think....depending on how the existing ramp is built...if it's filled, perfect..suspended, different story....get a concrete contractor to look at it. If it's a fill, he can probably drill in some 3" dia helical piles into the existing ramp to support the new slab on top, saw the slab in front of it to pour in new footers and re-bar for the sides, and build a new form out longer to take the sharp angle out. DC
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Join Date: Aug 2005
02-06-2006, 8:25 PM
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My trailer was dragging at some boat ramps on forward cross beam. I put airbags on my truck with onboard compressor to fix problem. So far so good, although not a gaurantee for your problem, but with adjustable hitch may do trick for different trailers.
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