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Join Date: Feb 2002
12-06-2005, 11:38 AM
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the thread has been archived, but a few were wondering where to find 1-1/8" barb fittings for the Tsunami 1220 gph pumps. i've been on the same quest, and finally }found some 90º fittings exactly like the one that comes with each Tsunami pump. i'm buying a few of these for myself, and would be happy to order a few extra. let me know if you're interested. price will depend on quantity, but no more than $8 ea + shipping.
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Join Date: Feb 2002
12-06-2005, 11:48 AM
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have also located 1-1/8" tee barb fittings, which is enough to make an inlet manifold. the rest of the parts can be found on barefootinternational.com.
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12-07-2005, 8:56 AM
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Home Depot as 1 1/8 barb to 3/4 pipe threads. My brother got 3 Tsunami 1220 gph pumps for about $27 each and used quick disconnects. We fill 4 450 lb big bump bags in about 10 min.
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Join Date: Sep 2003
12-13-2005, 12:31 PM
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$27 is a great price! How'd he swing that?
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Join Date: Feb 2002
12-13-2005, 1:01 PM
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yes it is. that's around dealer cost for those pumps.
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12-15-2005, 4:18 AM
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He Found them on the internet at one of the boat supply sites not sure wich one but they are attwood aerator pumps used for live wells. You can get the quick disconnects that are used on the fly high sacs they are great.
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Join Date: Oct 2003
12-15-2005, 5:41 AM
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Here's what I did - 1 1/4" PVC hose - never did find the 1 1/8" fittings...don't really need them now...
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Join Date: May 2003
12-15-2005, 11:19 PM
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Wes, How do you have your system setup? Looks like a much cheaper alternative to Jabsco pumps, but not sure how you are filling/emptying. -gvb
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Join Date: Oct 2003
12-16-2005, 5:01 AM
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My system is an aerator-based system... The Plumbing Intake Side It's a 2" manifold and will ultimately have 4 Tsunami 1200's as the intake pumps. I decided for ease of maintenance and repair to connect the Tsunami's to the manifold with short pieces of hose. Plus the fact that 1 1/8" stuff is hard to come by This can be seen in the pic and keeps it about as compact as possible. The entire manifold fits beside the engine stringer as low as possible...(don't have a pic of it installed yet) I'll be shooting some more pics as time goes by...all of the PVC parts were obtained at Lowe's, the Tsunami's were gotten at Bass Pro Shops. 1" swing check valves will be installed in the plumbing runs somewhere to act as backflow preventors. The system's exhaust side will act as a vent for the fill pumps as well as provide overflow/rupture protection. I believe the piping running thru the boat will be rigid 1" PVC...I think I'm doing that this weekend but it's getting kinda cold "under the big top" - we'll see. The exhaust side will simply be some Rule 1100 or similar connected to the sacs and to above-water thru hulls... The Electrical Side A fuse block will be installed near the switch panel and each fuse will be sized to handle one switch. I'll be using some SPDT lighted switches(Contura by Blue Seas) from Go2Marine....for all you aerator guys single pole is all you need as you will NOT be reversing the grounds (as is done with the Jabsco/Simer route)...you can just tie all the grounds together somewhere as they are COMMON and will stay common.. The panel is made from some poly-woly-doodle plastic (ABS or PVC or something)...as the surface is slightly textured, I haven't worked out labelling yet... General The thru hull fitting is 1 1/2" closed off by a PVC ball valve. I've kept a pretty good parts list which I'll post when I get closer to completion...just be advised...the cost all of this stuff mounts up pretty quickly! The system is designed for 2-700's in the stern and 2-600's in the ski locker Wes (Message edited by wesgardner on December 16, 2005) (Message edited by wesgardner on December 16, 2005) (Message edited by wesgardner on December 16, 2005) (Message edited by wesgardner on December 16, 2005)
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Join Date: Dec 2003
12-28-2005, 8:40 PM
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I would change out your PVC ball valve with a bronze one. All metal until you can close it off (emergencies).
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Join Date: Sep 2003
12-29-2005, 8:14 AM
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Wes, You noted that the prices add up pretty fast. I've considered doing something like you've done, but then there are days I'm not feeling very creative and think it would be nice to just buy a Rival system - someone who thought this out for me. Can you post your total cost when you do the parts list?
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Join Date: Sep 2003
12-29-2005, 8:19 AM
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I just got off the Bass Pro Shops website...Are we getting seriously shafted to buy a Tsunami for $100 when they are only $34.99? That is for the 1220 GPH version. I would only have to add $10 for fittings and hose and be done for under $50? Am I missing something here?
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Join Date: Aug 2005
12-29-2005, 8:31 AM
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talltigeguy, it ends up being a little more than $50. I bought two pumps $80(w/shipping), and the 4 fittings ($35 w/shipping) and about $15 for 12' of 1 1/4 hose (lowes). Still need to get the cig lighter plugs so I'm expecting each pump to cost me roughly $70.
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Join Date: Sep 2003
12-29-2005, 9:36 AM
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Wes, Since you used a 2 inch manifold, are you going to drill a 2 inch hole in the bottom of the boat? Or will you size it down some.
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Join Date: Oct 2003
12-29-2005, 10:20 AM
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The bronze thru hull is 1 1/2" as well as the the bronze "L" and the ball valve - after that it's 2"... My Tsunamis were about $35.00 +/-...that's just the beginning...SPDT switches, fuse blocks, wiring, hose, hose clamps, backflow preventers, pvc fittings, etc. etc. add up... I don't know what the Rival System uses on both fill and empty? My switch panel was the cost of the SPDT switches (about $12.00 ea.) and the material to make the panel (about $10.00) It just seems everytime I go to the store it's another $50.00 or so...that's just the cost of all this fun.... Wes (Message edited by wesgardner on December 29, 2005)
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Join Date: Oct 2003
12-29-2005, 10:59 AM
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Here's a list to date. I haven't bought the drain-side pumps or installed those thru hulls yet and I haven't run the piping to the stern sacs (or the forward ones for that matter) and yes, I owe the group some pics but hey, it's winter and getting out to the boat isn't always so easy... Ballast System Parts List 4 - Attwood Tsunami 1200 - $36 (Bass Pro Shops) 3 - 2” PVC T’s (Lowe’s) 4 – 2” to 1” PVC Reducing Bushings (solvent) (Lowe’s) 1 – 2” to 1 ½” Reducing Bushing (thread) (Lowe’s) 2” PVC Pipe (short lengths) (Lowe’s) 1” PVC Pipe (short lengths) (Lowe’s) 1 ¼” Tubing (short lengths) - $10.00 (Lowe’s) 24 - Hose Clamps (West Marine) 1 ½” Bronze Thru Hull (West Marine) 1 ½” Bronze Elbow (West Marine) 1 ½” PVC Ball Valve (Lowe’s) 3 - 1 ½” PVC Close Nipple (Lowe’s) 4 – SPDT Switches - $12.00 (Contura/ Blue Seas) (Go2 Marine) 1 – Fuse Block - $10.00 (West Marine) 50’ - 14/2 wire (West Marine) Miscellaneous connectors - $15.00 (Lowe’s) Plastic for panel - $15.00 (more than enough) 4 – Swing type solvent/solvent check valves – $9.50 (PlumbingSupply.com) 4 – Thru hulls for drains 4 – Pumps for drain side (Message edited by wesgardner on December 29, 2005)
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Join Date: Sep 2003
12-29-2005, 11:33 AM
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Wes, Rival uses a pump at the manifold for filling and another pump at the sack for emptying. The dash switches can be connected so that up is for fill and down is for empty on the same bag (or vice versa). Thanks for your thoughts.
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Join Date: Oct 2003
12-29-2005, 11:57 AM
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Hey talltigeguy, Sounds like a similar system...I guess I'm a DIY guy and cheap as well...after all, who builds a heater outa frickin' wood.... Another thought about the Rival - I'm sure their switch panel is good (mine works the same way) but do they supply all the fittings, thru hulls, piping, etc. with their system...not to ding them at all, just be sure you know EXACTLY what you are and are not getting and for what cost. Lemme know if I can help Wes
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Join Date: Sep 2003
12-29-2005, 1:17 PM
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They have promised me that they provide everything that is needed to complete the system, manifold, swithces, pumps, fittings, check valves, etc. http://www.rivalindustries.com/Download%20brochure.htm
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Join Date: Oct 2003
12-30-2005, 5:55 AM
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Hey talltigeguy, Here's another thought - make sure the manifold will fit, mine is about two feet long and fits to the side and under the engine (fairly tight considering my boat is almost 25'!)...I'm sure you know that these aerator pumps must be either close or underthe waterline as they will not self prime. Although the Rival uses a scoop thru-hull which will probably do a bit by forcing water against the pumps if you're moving forward. (mine's low enough to self-prime) Good luck Wes
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Join Date: Sep 2003
12-30-2005, 10:26 AM
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Thanks for the thoughts, Wes. The Rival is actually a company adjacent to the Tige dealer in Phoenix (I think they started out as the same company), so they are particularly aware of any quirks with the Tige. There is a perfect little spot in front of the V-drive and behind the gas tank that can handle the manifold and keep it below water line.
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