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Join Date: Oct 2005
01-02-2008, 8:07 AM
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I live in Texas, and the temperature is supposed to drop below freezing a couple nights this week. I bought an electric blanket to cover the X-Star's engine, but is there anywhere I should watch out for in particular? The component that is most likely to freeze that I need to be certain to cover? Right now, the blanket is draped over the entire block creating a tent of sorts. Also, the boat is 8 years old and the seat cushions are getting incredibly brittle and cracking often, especially in the cold weather. Any suggestions on how to soften or moisturize the vinyl to prolong their life as long as possible?
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Join Date: Oct 2005
01-02-2008, 8:09 AM
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Thanks in advance guys
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tyler
01-02-2008, 8:24 AM
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if you have a shower or heater, drain it.
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Join Date: Mar 2002
01-02-2008, 11:48 AM
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Throw a 100w light bulb in the motor compartment. You'll be fine with that short term. As for the intereior, your best bet is plenty of 303 on a regular basis, but they're still gonna crack if you ride often in cold weather. I've taken meticulous care of my cushions on both boats I've owned and they've still cracked from excessive winter use. I've asked around to see if there is any alternative blend and most interior shops have told me that vinyl just isn't made to be walked all over and sat on in freezing conditions.
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Join Date: Sep 2007
01-02-2008, 4:02 PM
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I use the mirror glaze vinyl and rubber conditioner. It softens better than the 303 but it is a little slippery when first applied.
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Join Date: Sep 2004
01-02-2008, 7:47 PM
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Babe's seat saver is an awesome vinyl conditioner.
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Join Date: Jun 2003
01-02-2008, 10:47 PM
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they make oil pan heater things you stick on teh bottom of the pan, or heated dip sticks. Way better than an electric blanket. If the oil is warm, the block won't ge tcold enough to damage anything
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Join Date: Apr 2002
01-02-2008, 11:14 PM
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It's not the oil in the bottom of the engine that is going to freeze. It's the water in the heads, exhaust, heater or shower. Use a couple of drop lights if it's just for a few nights. Or a bilge heater if it's a more permanent thing. http://www.boatsafeheaters.com/
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Join Date: Jun 2003
01-02-2008, 11:19 PM
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I realize its not the oil that freezes, but if the oil is warm, the rest of the block will stay warm. Then the water won't freeze.
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Join Date: Apr 2002
01-03-2008, 9:39 AM
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In my experience only the oil & pan stay warm. Very little of the heat transfers thru the block, into the heads & exhaust manifolds where many freezes happen. Plus the magnetic heater has a warning right on it that it can bake the paint on your pan or block, although I've never seen that. I have used all three methods, a bilge heater, a drop light & a magnetic pan heater. The drop light is quick & easy. The bilge heater is the most expensive, but works the best because it will keep your engine, heater core & shower valves warm (assuming their all in the engine bay). Cost new is like $300. I picked one up on Ebay for $90. It has a thermostat that kicks on at 45 degrees. This will help dry things out & prevent corrosion too, ie; wiring, throttle linkage, etc. Nothing can replace properly winterizing the boat. But if you still like to ride in the off season occasionally and like to make sure your baby is well taken care of....... a CG approved bilge heater is tough to beat.
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Join Date: May 2007
01-03-2008, 10:34 AM
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Can you install a regular block heater, that you have on a GM V8 engine?
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Join Date: Jan 2004
01-03-2008, 3:18 PM
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I'd never heard of the Boatsafe Heater. I was interested until I saw this disclaimer- "NOTE: This heater WILL NOT provide adequate protection for a boat that is stored out of the water on a lift, or on a trailer." I think a thermo cube and a 100 bulb watt might be the cheapest and best option...
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Join Date: Feb 2006
01-04-2008, 6:19 AM
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If you're storing out of the water just drain the engine and heater. It only takes a few minutes and then you don't have to worry about things like the heater crapping out on you or losing electricity for an extended period. The reason those heaters state they won't provide adequate protection out of water is because water isn't too keen on dipping below 32F while air will get much much colder. Water also takes its time dropping temperature compared to air. When you have a boat submerged in the water in freezing temps, the water will actually contribute to keeping the engine compartment warm (to an extent). That doesn't help if the body of water is frozen but if that's the case, a block heater is the least of your worries. In practice, those heater usually do just fine for a boat out of water but my cousin did lose a freeze plug last year using a bilge heater so I guess it's not perfect.
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Join Date: Jan 2007
01-04-2008, 9:26 AM
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Just use the 100W light bulb; if it works in MN it will work in TX. For the vinyl look into the 303 cleaner/conditioner. I've used that for my seats for years and it works like a charm. But the best thing to do is not step on the seats (if you get in/out of the boat, step over the seat cushions), it seems that butts do less damage than feet.
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Join Date: Feb 2001
01-15-2008, 1:58 AM
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Be careful if your using any sort of non-marine rated space heater as the internal switch for the thermostat that turns the heater on and off WILL SPARK so if there are any fumes...This is especially important to carb'ed engines.
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Join Date: Jan 2008
01-28-2008, 12:01 PM
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Dont even worry about your boat buddy, im from MN and your not gonna have problems till the temp drops to the mid 20's and stays there. I didnt winterize my boat up here till Mid November and was fine when temp was droppin to 27 degrees
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