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Go Back   WakeWorld > >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive > Archive through November 04, 2009

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Old     (eerock)      Join Date: Sep 2009       09-29-2009, 6:08 PM Reply   
Hey guys, I bought a 99 SAN with a bag engine that needs to be rebuilt and has been ran in brackish water for a couple years. Well I can either rebuild this engine completely(but don't know the condition of the block or heads yet) or I could buy a 04 350 Xcalibur complete with electrical with 400hrs. what should I do?? thanks
Old     (lifetimewarranty)      Join Date: Oct 2008       09-29-2009, 6:26 PM Reply   
I don't think I'd ever put a used engine in my boat, so I think my recommendation would be against the 04...but to rebuild is often a waste of money also, when short blocks are pretty cheap.

Unfortunately, if memory serves correct, that is a ford engine, which is dramatically more pricey than my mercruiser GM 350 that I have.

Tough call - How much is a short block vs worst case rebuild?
Old     (luchog)      Join Date: Jun 2002       09-29-2009, 6:59 PM Reply   
ever wonder why did someone change a 400hours engine?

Those Gt40s were really good engines, I'd try to rebuilt that one.
Old     (eerock)      Join Date: Sep 2009       09-29-2009, 10:06 PM Reply   
Well they guy is a professional skier and the new rules are you must have "fly by wire" throttle control so he is having to change everything. Well it will cost about 1500- 2500 for a complete rebuild on the 351 ford depending on how bad the salt corroded everything where it ran in the cooling ports
Old     (bchesley)      Join Date: Apr 2001       09-30-2009, 7:51 AM Reply   
If it was run in brackish for just a few seasons it wont be that bad. Everyone seems to think salt water is like acid and it eats stuff as soon as you put it near it. Its definately corrosive but not that bad. I would bet the engine will be fine after a rebuild. The gt-40 has much mor ebottom end torque that the excaliber also.
Old     (eerock)      Join Date: Sep 2009       09-30-2009, 8:14 AM Reply   
Ok thanks, yeah that is what I was kinda thinking but I spoke to a knowledgeable CC mechanic and I was taking his opinion but I think he put about 500 hrs on it in brackish water but he did flush it after most rides. ALso I was told that if he didn't drain the block(which I doubt) that the brackish water wouldn't corrode as bad as if it was drained and left dry to corrode. Also what kind of money have you guys found that it normally cost to go through and rebuild, thinking that all rods are fine.
Old     (cadunkle)      Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: NJ       09-30-2009, 8:49 AM Reply   
I've built more small block Fords than you can shake a stick at and done a handful of big block Fords.

Cost depends on condition of your core, what you want out of it, and the quality you want to put into the build. If the motor is just down on power/leaks oil/whatever like a typical old engine you could get away with a simple cleanup and re-ring, lap the valves by hand, etc. and spend a couple hundred bucks tops. Big thing if you go that route is to check the taper of the bores, if taper is too much (.006" is really pushing it) you will wear out your new rings in a season or two and be burning oil again, also valves and seats must be in reasonably decent condition.

A basic mild rebuilt, if pinching pennies, will run around $400-$600 in machine work to hot tank, bore the cyls, valve job, turn crank, depending on what needs to be done and if any other work is desired.

Then your parts to build the engine, basic kits for a mild build are around $300-$500 depending on waht you get. $500 will get you a nice kit with forged pistons (such as: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEM-CSMHP801-311/). Throw in a few other components, double roller timing chain ($50), maybe cam+lifters ($200) if you want a little more performance or your orig cam is worn excessively (Comp makes some good marine grinds. Misc BS items ($100-$200). If you want more performance a little cleanup of the heads wouldn't hurt. Mild port job on the exhaust side just to clean it up. Basically a free 10-20 HP if you take the time to do it.

So basically if it's a typical worn engine and you want to do it right you can look at around $1500 between parts and machine shop costs for a mild build with good components. Small blocks are cheap and easy. Use marine parts where appropriate (brass freeze plugs, oil pan, pickup, etc.), but I wouldn't worry about marine intake and head gaskets unles the boat will live in salt.

As for using a used engine... I wouldn't replace a Ford engine with a Chevy, but aside from that if the used engine will fit in easily and is only a few hundred bucks then go for it if you want to save some money. Before putting it in I'd check compression and bearings to be sure it's in good condition. I put a used SBC in my boat. I didn't feel like taking the time or money to build a new engine mid-season, just wanted to get back on the water quick and cheap. The SBC came out of a car with 20,000 miles on it. Ran great in the car, compression checked out and bearings looked good. It hasn't given me any trouble and only cost $300. I've put 40+ hours on it this season without a hiccup. Just gotta check it before dropping it in and replace any automotive parts with marine, because there's no walking home when you break down on the water.
Old     (sailing216)      Join Date: Oct 2007       09-30-2009, 10:11 AM Reply   
I think Frank W over in the surfing section has a fairly new Merc 350 his wife wants out of the garage. You should hit him up. Probably get it on the cheap.

Here's the link: http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/8/729972.html?1251498624

(Message edited by sailing216 on September 30, 2009)

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