Cracked Block..

Guys, I just found out I have a cracked block, I am assuming I need a whole new motor? or can they just rebuild the motor with a new block? any ideas..I really dont want to shell out 5k for a motor..but I gotta do what I gotta do, just looking for other ideas..

Motor is a monsoon from a malibu wakesetter

Cracked block pretty much means toast. Sorry man. The block itself is far and away the most expensive part of the engine, so your best bet is to just get a new one from the factory. To ask a shop to order in a new empty block, and strap your crankshaft, cams, heads, etc. into it would probably cost more in labor than the new factory completely built block would. That sucks.

Most of the time either a short (no heads) or long (heads and intake) block is the best way to proceed. I would never put old pistons, rings, bearings into a new block. If your heads and intake are in good condition a short-block is least expensive way to go.

luckily though, the malibu engines are just a chevy 350, so they are a very common block.

"luckily though, the malibu engines are just a chevy 350, so they are a very common block."

Common yes, but marinized is a completely different animal. Contacting Indmar is probably your best bet.

Not different in the block - bronze plugs the only real difference. The cam and springs are different. The real difference is in the ignition, electrical, and fuel systems. You can swap the block without much difficulty as long as us use the marine cam and your existing heads. A marinized long block is likely the quickest and least expensive way to go unless you can do the work yourself.

That sucks man, I had a cracked block on a boat I bought several years ago that was a repo someone didn't care about. I was able to weld it up and it worked like a charm until Sunday when I discovered it opened back up. As long as you don't have water in the oil, a repair can probably be made. Mine now has water in the oil so I'm out of luck.

Thanks Guys, Cody, ya I have water in the oil..this sucks..wonder if I can get the president to pay for this..ha ha ha

Judging by your profile your's is too new but I have a marine vortec motor I pulled out a few months back that fits from around mid 90's to early 2000's that the block looks fine on Need to get rid of this thing.

Pulled the motor due to low compression after a panicked driver way over revved the engine.

Aaron seek advise from some one who rebuilds engines. Aswell as get quotes for long blocks, and if possible maybe a change over or rebuilt engine. Make your decision from there.
What fault diagnosis have you done? Just found water in the oil?

Ask the guys on malibucrew.com

sand off the paint around the crack and try out JB Weld epoxy. The stuff works miracles and can repair a pretty wide crack on any metal. Change your oil to get the water out. You may have to change it again after running it. It's amazing how a little bit of water in oil is very hard to get rid of. It's worth a shot before you get a new motor. I repaired a cracked tranny cooler with JB Weld 10 years ago on my old boat and it's still doesn't leak.

Clinton, I had the malibu dealer/service guy check it out. as far as that thats all I know, the unfortunate thing is I am moving from Denver down to Atlanta, so I am trying to talk to the guys in Atlanta (atlantainboard)to see what we can do..thanks for the input

I went through this on my 454 this year.
After talking with pcm quite a bit and checking out their cam specs. It's just a run of the mill motor. The accessories, ignition and freeze plugs(that don't protect from freezing) are the only difference.
Find a local machine shop or a reman company to build it.
This will be a great time to switch intake cams etc to better suit your specs.
When I put mine in I had it built more for low end torque monster where as it came from the factory more of a high rpm motor.

http://www.jasperengines.com/about-remanufactured-engines.php

^Try here for a price first.

Aaron, I am not expert on marinized engines. But generally when you have water in the oil it is due from the engine overheating. The first thing to crack is normally the head. The only way to be sure on what damaged has occurred would be to strip the engine and have the heads and block cracked tested. Also there may be other damage if it has overheated such as the pistons have picked up on the bore. This will require a rehone.
Also there will probably water on your bearings now this will start causing surface rust on crankshaft and other parts that will need to be cleaned up. Taking off a few big and main bearing caps and inspecting the crank will help to investigate the extent of the problem.

In summary, If you decide to rebuild you will not know the full costs until it is stripped and inspected,. My guess is that you may get away with new or repaired heads, new bearings and ring and cleanup the other parts. If you can find a change over engine or rebuilt you will know exact cost and should get warranty aswell.

Schoolerider- epoxy is marvelous stuff and can get you out trouble and a cheap way to repair housings etc. But is no good for engine repairs due to the high pressures and temperature changes involved. Heads and block cracks are needed to be repaired by an expert.

One other thing. I take it there is no engine oil cooler fitted?