tige project update

I took the tge on the water yesterday for the first time in five years. It floats and the tranny works but the engine ran poorly , i got it up to 35. I will be doing alot of carb tinkering. What type of speed should i expect from this boat 1:1 trans 13/13 3 blade prop?

carb tinkering...lol. You need to somehow get the old fuel out, flush the fuel lines, replace the filter and rebuild the carb.

It was off the water for 5 years!

carb is new fuel has been flushed

any new pics?

What where the RPM's @ 35mph?

Not a lot to "tinker" with, set the float level, idle mixture, and idle speed. Everything else is set on the bench. If the float is set correctly, and the throttle plate is fully open at WOT, then it's not a carb problem.

does it have breaker points ignition? If yes I highly suggest the breakerless ignition conversion: http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?i=27746&pdesc=Aqua_Power_Electronic_Co nversion_Kit_for_Ford_GM_V_8_engines_with_Prestoli te_clip_cap_breaker_point_ignition_system&str=poin ts&merchID=1008&r=view

for only $139 it beats the heck out of trying to get the space, angle, and dwell set correctly.

Points are a big failure point on older boats.

I doubt its points. IIRC it is a 97?

More info on what it was doing. Bogging? High RPM and no speed? Stutter?

You should expect 40-45 at WOT.

(Message edited by olSkoolTige on March 28, 2008)

it stumbles hard right off idle its tricky but when it hits (guess) 2k rpms it revs all the way up....tach does not work.

I bought a Tige project boat as well, and my tach doesn't work either. I need to figure out what the problem is there. Did you replace the fuel/water seperator?

When my last boat acted like that, the fix was as easy as new spark-plugs. If you haven't swapped them yet, might be worth a shot...?

If your gauges dont work, just e-mail Tige they have a lifetime warrenty

really life time warrenty?

im not an expert by anymeans but my boat was doing that and i took the water fuel seperator apart and cleaned it and it completely fixed the problem

For those who don't know the history

http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/3183/551292.html


http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/3183/554614.html

think i need a 600 cfm

if your still running that 750 carb you do need to get the 600. you also need to check the distributor cap and make sure the terminals are not corroded. after 5 yrs. of sitting cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter and carb would be mandatory to me. if it stumbles on hole shot and has low top end you need to check fuel pressure (under load not just at idle) if if pressure is good you can be losing volume and running it lean. id almost go ahead and replace the fuel pump as well.

(Message edited by kko13 on March 29, 2008)

Between TigeMike and Mikeski we pretty much have any boat questions covered here. Not that a lot of others have great advice as well i.e. stereo stuff but these 2 seem to always have an answer.

Yes my sincere thanks to you both. I think the timing might be advanced too far, i set it a little ahead because it idled smoother but i will try backing it off also the plugs are new but look like crap already (crap sitting in a 5 year old engine}i will change them, cap rotor, wires. test runs mon and tues.

Do what you wish to do first but you will need the tach working in order to get the engine working properly.

You surely need the 600cfm carb and probably a tune up of the distributor.

since i am most likely to do all that. i am going to buy the carb last since its most $$$.

OK, excluding the carb which we all know is too big...

Not getting up to full speed usually indicates fuel delivery issues, but you replaced the fuel pump IIRC, so check the fuel lines, pick up screen in the tank, and filter. The sputtering off idle sounds like timing, so check that out for sure. Again that is ignoring the 750 cfm carb, because both problems are probably related to that.

This is what we were talking about in the other threads as far as wasting a lot more time and money working the bugs out - those injectors will look like a bargain in retrospect.

im 3 into the swap cap and rotor+wires changing anyway. injectors 800 + last owner said it had computer problems.

you could still get a remanufactured carb for not that much money and it would most likely fix your problem, yet you state it is the last thing you will do. It only U$D300 and go enjoy your boat.

Many people here have advised you well on all your threads, I wonder why you ask for advise and then are so reluctant to follow it, perhaps you know somethig we all dont?

its only the last thing because the boat runs now and the weather stills sucks. i am watching ebay like a hawk for a deal. if i dont find it in a month or so i will buy a new one.