Stereo guru's speak up.....

Looking to upgrade my sub's, Thinking about going to the Rockford Fosgste T110D4 or the T2110D4. I know everyone naturaly goes to the JL W7 but what else is rocking the beats?

I am no stereo guru so I will keep my mouth shut.

Gary check out Elemental Designs. I just helped a friend put in a bunch of stuff in his boat, and it's awesome for the price. He got the mono 1200 watt, a couple tens, and a 4 channel.
I ordered an amp from them to play around with (test it out). I can give a better report in a few weeks after I play around with one. Prices are awesome, and I know a few people that really like the stuff. Three year warranty on amps and speakers.
www.edesignaudio.com

what do you have against the JL's

NOthing against the JL's they rock and are well proven but I am looking at the Fosgates (T110D4) at about $120 bucks a piece vers about $300 for the JL (W7). I am not against spending more but why if I can get relativly the same performance.

I dont think Most people go with W-7's I just think thoes are the subs you see most people posting. As far as JL's go W-6's are great sub's, If you cant afford a W-7 W-3's are good if you cant afford a W-6. When you choose a sub you also have to think about the power your going to push to it. No use Running a W-7 if your not gonna push it with at least 1000 watts. So try to think of amp sub combo instead of just a sub.

BTW Gary where can you get W-7's for $300. Ill be buy to pick some up.

I got two infinity perfect 12's (3.5 years ago mind you) and couldn't be happier with them. They are efficient, sound great, and absolutely bump, with only 500W going to them. I didn't want to stack the boat with lots of amps because I didn't want to redo the battery, alternator, and wiring.

JLs speakers have never really appealed to me, however I am using their 500/1 amp for my subs.

I second that, Gary where's the connection for the $300 W7. I'll take two, please!

BTW, stop being cheap and buy the W7

W7 for $300 , I'll take 4. I've heard that the w-7's don't last long when played for extended periods of time. Most of our local shop don't sell them unless specifically asked, they push alot of w-6's. If you search some of the car audio websites, you'll find alot of good info on the ED subs. I still think you can get good soudn out fo a mediocre sub with the right enclosure and power. Pushing 125 watts to a sub may sound decent in your car, but IMO won't cut it in a boat. or at least I've never heard one that sounded good.

Find a way to fit two 10/12 w-6's in slotted ported boxes w/ a 1000/1.

Grant;
I wish I could pass the deal but I am almost stealing them right now and I don't want to push the limits. I knew if I go with a W7 I am ging to have to add some wattage. The W6 in Tim's boat rocks HARD, That is the other possibility I am thinking about. Looking at the ED's talked about above just add to my confusion. Where does the maddness end

Tim I am already waiting for you to go with the next W6. I had the hook-up for the two W6 for $400. Tell you what I will get the W7 and let me use you new amp to see how much rub rail I can pop off...

Gary, are you gonna have all this new bling in for Thanksgiving!!!

Gary,

I have an 06 215 in the shop right now. Has a T1 12" under the helm with a custom built ported enclosure. Sounds awesome. Dosen't Quite keep up with the NVS 1010s' when your behind the boat but then again not much will. I've worked with both Rockford and JL. both are kick butt subs.If you feel like coming to modesto I'll be more than happy to let you hear it. Should have the boat for another week or so. Waiting for the tower to come back from warranty

Gary,
My boat stays outside on a lift so there is no way I am putting a $500 subwoofer in the range of a thieves hand. I am using an Alpine Type R sub with overall satisfaction, for about $100. I have posted pictures of my e-bay sourced plastic sealed enclosure here before.

When it comes to subs you are just moving air, it's effectively a piston. Like a piston you have area and stroke, some 12s will have a larger piston area than others. Notice the JLW7 has a surround that goes to the outside of mounting surface allowing for a larger piston area, maybe equivalent to a 13"+ woofer. I feel that the more important parameter is Xmax (stroke). You should not buy a sub without looking at the Xmax rating, that would be like buying a boat without knowing the displacement of the motor. An Xmax rating around 10-20mm should allow enough air movement in most boat installations. You will also find that location and mounting play a huge role in how your sub sounds. A well placed/mounted cheap sub will probably sound better than a poorly placed/mounted high end sub. Don't get wrapped around brand names they don't mean much.

I feel that the correct location is at the drivers feet in most boats.