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Go Back   WakeWorld > >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive > Archive through October 15, 2006

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Old     (cooze)      Join Date: Jul 2004       08-29-2006, 6:39 AM Reply   
Thought I would show you all a few pics of a ballast instal I did on a 94' Tige Slalom 2002. Some of the credit has to go to Trace, he gave me the idea for the manifold. The install is almost complete but feel free to give suggestions. I will post more pics as this poject gets completed. Upload
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Old     (cooze)      Join Date: Jul 2004       08-29-2006, 2:18 PM Reply   
More Pictures...Upload
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Old     (spoonman)      Join Date: Aug 2005       08-29-2006, 2:43 PM Reply   
Looks good! Are there going to be other tanks other than the rear one? If so where will they go?
Old     (denverd1)      Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tyler       08-29-2006, 2:50 PM Reply   
looks like your draining thru the bilge pump. pumping it twice, i think. with a few check valves and a plastic thru hull, you could have a dedicated drain that services all the sacs.
Old     (denverd1)      Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tyler       08-29-2006, 2:57 PM Reply   
i may be wrong... if so, what are the 4 pipes that have nothing connected in the 2nd and 4th pics? i realize you're not finished, just curious.
Old     (cooze)      Join Date: Jul 2004       08-29-2006, 4:58 PM Reply   
This should clear up some questions.Upload
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Old     (cooze)      Join Date: Jul 2004       08-29-2006, 5:01 PM Reply   
One more.
Old     (cooze)      Join Date: Jul 2004       08-29-2006, 5:02 PM Reply   
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Old     (talltigeguy)      Join Date: Sep 2003       08-29-2006, 7:55 PM Reply   
I love the manifold. Very nice.

Where will the overflow go when the tank is full? You've probably got plans to T it off somehow. Don't forget to post more pics when done.

(Message edited by talltigeguy on August 29, 2006)
Old     (cooze)      Join Date: Jul 2004       08-30-2006, 5:20 AM Reply   
Here is the plan for getting water from the drain and the overflow out of the boat. No T's or check valves. Just running strait from the tank to the thru-hulls. It needs a spring check valve on the drains though, because it is draining while filling.
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Old     (cooze)      Join Date: Jul 2004       08-30-2006, 5:21 AM Reply   
Oh and the chrome plated 1 1/8" thru hulls just haven't come in yet. The plastic ones are just place holders.
Old     (denverd1)      Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tyler       08-30-2006, 1:53 PM Reply   
sweet. post some pics when its slammed. any sacs up front?


(Message edited by denverd1 on August 30, 2006)
Old     (fill_er_up)      Join Date: May 2006       08-30-2006, 5:05 PM Reply   
Once filled do you shut off the brass valve at the manifold or use the plastic ones to stop flow? Also, that manifold is clean looking. Do you have a list of the fittings you used to create it? I especially like the way the Tsunamis look to be attached direct without a hose adaptor. Tks
Old     (cooze)      Join Date: Jul 2004       08-31-2006, 5:37 AM Reply   
J- We just use the plastic ones after filling. The brass valve is for an emergency. The manifold was originally used by Trace, it is:
2- 1 1/2" Wye Connections
The Tsunamis are connected using 1 1/2" to 1 1/4" threaded PVC connectors. I had cut about 3/4" off the bottom of the connector to allow space for the nut that came with the pump. The nut had to be trimmed to fit inside the Wye. Then the pump was connected to the fitting using a rubber sink O-ring and the fitting was glued into the Wye. Hope this made sense.
Old     (trace)      Join Date: Feb 2002       08-31-2006, 6:45 AM Reply   
Thanks for the credit. Nice install. Where'd you get the tank?

I used 2" wyes instead of 1-1/2". Mine takes up more valuable space, but the only mod I had to make was sanding the OD of a couple of the Tsunami nuts. I'm also running 4 fill pumps, and had put about a 2' gap in the middle to fit everything in.

It looks like your vents are below the top of the tank, which is why they're overflowing before it's full. A spring check valve is kind of a bandaid, but it should work OK. I had to put my vents way forward under the windshield to keep them below the rubrail and still above the rear sacks when they're full. Also, to burp air during filling, the vents should exit the tank from the top surface.
Old     (cooze)      Join Date: Jul 2004       08-31-2006, 12:20 PM Reply   
Trace- we built the tank. The vents go to the top of the tank on the inside. It is draining through the drain lines while filling, putting in the spring check valves in today. i will update you with pics and let you know how it worked.

Please keep suggestions / questions coming!

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Old     (trace)      Join Date: Feb 2002       08-31-2006, 1:09 PM Reply   
Ah, I see. Good idea for the vents. The location of the drain outlet thruhulls below the desired max water level will still allow it to drain / siphon down to the level of the thruhulls. You can get around this problem with a vented loop in the drain lines, which is a loop in the line that peaks above the desired level, with a vacuum breaker (tee with a check valve open to the air in this case) located at the peak.
Old     (trace)      Join Date: Feb 2002       08-31-2006, 1:11 PM Reply   
...which will create a lot less backpressure than the spring checks.
Old     (cooze)      Join Date: Jul 2004       09-04-2006, 9:47 AM Reply   
The spring check valves solved to problem. I f they start to fail for some reason then we will try the vented loop as you have suggested Trace. As you can see in the picture we need more weight in the bow. In all the tank is 147 gallons which is about 900+ lbs. and the tank weighs about 115 lbs.
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Old     (cooze)      Join Date: Jul 2004       09-04-2006, 9:49 AM Reply   
This is what it looked like with just the tank filled.
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Old     (cooze)      Join Date: Jul 2004       09-04-2006, 9:49 AM Reply   
This is what it looked like with just the tank filled.
Old     (madchild1)      Join Date: Mar 2005       09-04-2006, 4:42 PM Reply   
i'd be careful....

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