Malibu Winterization

I have an '01 LSV and am getting ready for my first "winter" with it in Dallas. It is kept outside in covered storage with no power. I will probably periodically use it on any days that warm up. Does anyone have pictures or a link for what hoses and plugs need to be removed?

I have read the winterization threads and already removed all the gear and ran stabilizer in the gas tank. I would just like to see pictures of what I need to pull off before I get down in there and pull everything I see.

Thanks for any help!

Well, it is supposed to get below freezing this weekend. Any help or a point in the right direction?

Try this,http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=6628
it should work for other engines.
(Message edited by ccraftskierfan on November 21, 2007)

(Message edited by ccraftskierfan on November 21, 2007)

(Message edited by ccraftskierfan on November 21, 2007)

Thanks for the link! I was able to follow everything except removing the knock sensor. After I took the wire harness off, I put my wrench to it and started to twist, but it just started to shear off the edges of the bolt head.

Knock sensor:



It looks pretty rusty on the threads going into the block. Should spraying some WD40 on the threads help, or does someone know of a better method to get it out without breaking it? Is this pretty common?

a little WD40 will help. Also try to warm up the block around the threads with a butane torch.

Make sure to use a box-end wrench or a 6pt socket.

Well, WD40 and a deep socket worked for getting the knock sensor out.

Now that I have removed the impeller, plugs, and hoses I am regretting my decision not to fog the cylinders. With all of these parts out, is there any danger in starting the engine to fog it being that it will only be running for 10-15 seconds? Does the engine need to be warmed up first?

Also, my boat is stored in covered parking (open at the front). Before I go through the effort, is it necessary to fog the engine in the north Texas area?

Again, I appreciate the help.

If you are going to use it periodically, then you don't need to fog it. The fogging oil is to protect against corrosion when storing for extended periods.

I don't think you can get the fogging oil to get distributed in 10-15 seconds. I spray mine in thru the air intake. Someone else may be able to explain how you could take out the spark plugs and spray in each cylinder.

Newer engines with injectors should not be fogged through the intake. They should be treated by mixing oil in gasoline and running the engine for approx 5 minutes. Then remove spark plugs and spray with fogging oil.

George, this is the first time I've heard that injected engines should not be fogged. Why not?

Whether I take it out will depend on the weather through the winter. I would guess it will sit at most for three months if I never get a chance to use it. The boat is stored where I have no access to water or electricity - so no "fake a lake" ability. I have never fogged any of our previous boats (i/o and outboard), is it really necessary for a max layup time of three months?

Dtb, I believe it is because with the more efficient burning in injected engines you never get the engine cylinder coated with oil. In a carb engine you could bog the engine down overloading cylinders, it would actually quit running. You can't get that much fog through the air intake on a fuel injected engine. Here is Mercruisers service bulletin.

Got a reply from the dealer then I called Indmar to discuss.

Reply:
With over 10 years of experience in the marine industry, and the changes that have occurred from carburetion to MPI; the procedures have changed as well. With an MPI engine, fogging of the engine is the least important aspect of winterisation. The most important part is to change the oil & filter to make sure that there is fresh lubricant throughout the engine. Fogging is more important in other environments such as salt-laden air and areas where the boat is subject to high humidity through the storage period.

I called Indmar and they indicated basically the same thing, that a fresh layer of oil in the enginee is all that is really required. He indicated that manufactures don't ship enginees around with any fogging in them, fresh oil and that is it.

Anyways, while the rest of the world tells me I should fog the manufacture of the enginees says "not really required unless in salty environments".

Hmmm... Well I guess that means I should change the oil and filter. I was planning on just doing that at the start of next season. If I change it now and let it sit for three months, I assume I'll to change it again at that point?

Also, what is commonly used to get the old oil out (pump)? Could I get a link to a good place to buy it possibly?

It's a good idea to change the oil/filter at the end of the season because used oil becomes caustic and can pit the soft metals of the engine such as bearings and pistons. Used oil is also contaminated with moisture, fuel, dirt and from combustion. After the oil change, run it for a couple on minutes to circulate the clean oil.

I got one of these cheap 12v pumps about 8yrs ago, still going strong.

http://overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=12_Volt_Oil_Changer&cname=Oil-Changers-/-Filters&r=view&i=71741&aID=24A

you will need to de-winterize it to do the best job of changing the oil and filter. It's best to change the oil after the engine is slightly warmed up. The oil you have in there right now is just sitting in the pan and not hurting anything. If you added fuel stabilizer and now have drained the water out of the block and the cooling system, you are good until Spring.