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Old     (BOWZ)      Join Date: Apr 2013       02-26-2018, 9:03 PM Reply   
Hey guys I have been researching off and on for past 2 years, Lately until my eyes get bloodshot. To start my idea is to build a set of tower mounts for the rev8’s and run each bridged on 3&4 and 5&6 on the G6600 amp.

Current equipment installed:
JL G660 ch1@2 pushing 4 in-boat alpines, ch 3&4 pushing 4 kicker 6.5” dual pods on the tower
Crossfire 1000D pushing 2 old school alpine type R 12” @1ohm

Things sitting in my Closet:
Rev8’s(used set purchased last fall for my bday present from the wife)
2 12W3V3 (initial plan)
1 300/2 Slash amp (part of initial plan)
1 12W6V2 (2nd plan because)

The sub setup is taxing my electrical system for relaxing at the house boat and would serve my car better. I wanted to lighten the electrical draw by removing the passenger compartment sub and building a ported box for 1 12W3V3 and push it with the 300/2. I have been having reservations about the w3 not being loud enough and picked up a 12W6V2 tonight for a screaming good deal.

I have several questions, the biggest being is building a ported box. I have built more sealed boxes than I cam remember, not a professional but can hold my own with the simple calculations and build quality. I have researched a couple programs for designing ported boxes and watched countless videos on it. I am running into space limitations under the helm. I’m looking for guidance on driver and port firing relation/direction, and ideal tuning HZ.(listen to everything) Also opinions on external round ports due irregular dimensions where the box is going. What is a rule of thumb for reducing vent noise or chuffing with the areo ports.

Ultimately I would love to run a 500/1 slash amp but will use the crossfire @2ohms until I can find a good deal on a slash. I’m sure everyone is thinking what a hodgepodge setup but with the wife in grad school I'm trying to get the best at a realistic price point. Sorry for the long winded post, I wanted to paint everyone the best picture, let me know if you need more information and thanks in advance!



wakeboarding for me


surfing for her

BOWZ

Last edited by BOWZ; 02-26-2018 at 9:11 PM. Reason: I can't type
Old     (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       02-27-2018, 10:54 AM Reply   
Before condemning the woofer setup, what is your battery setup?
Old     (BOWZ)      Join Date: Apr 2013       02-27-2018, 7:13 PM Reply   
Afraid that was going to be a question, and the answer is not good enough...

stock 90A alternator, stock wiring and 1 Optima group 31 Blue top. I am wanting to do a Blue Sea 120amp add-a-battery + another D31M but towards the last bit of the season I noticed some noise from the stock alternator, so it will probably get upgraded out of necessity this spring. I amp clamped it last fall and it was still good so assume a bearing is on its way out.

I installed a digital Volt meter on the dash that is powered up with the stereo switch so that I can constantly monitor VDC when engine isn't running. (not taking it below 12-12.3V)

One of the big reasons I'm going to hit the used market hard for the JL 500/1 is its ability to produce rated watts and the lower 12.5V.

Bowz
Old     (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       02-27-2018, 7:59 PM Reply   
I dont see your 90A alternator being an issue. However, the g-31's 75 Ah is pretty low for its size and cost.

The Blue Sea add-a-battery is a great setup, but will not fix your issue. Id suggest going with two group 29/31 wet cell or other AGM and sticking with a traditional 1/2/BOTH switch and a shore charger. This would give you 200+ Ah and a better setup.

Better yet, a pair of 6V golf cart batteries for about 260 Ah.
Old     (BOWZ)      Join Date: Apr 2013       02-27-2018, 9:23 PM Reply   
Yes I know people don't like optima, I've been running them for years and have yet to find lackluster life/performance. Note taken on other brands. I understand Ah ratings. I'm more into this thread for the opinions/real world experiences on the box designing side of the house. I have spent many hours perusing WW and other marine forums, I have read a lot of what odin M, davidanalog, david_e_m(same guy retired in 2013?), brianinpdx, and you among others I can't remember off the top of my head. Seems like david has finally given up on this forum and retired and brian hasn't posted in a while, so hoping to hear from guys like yourself that appear to do this for a living. As I eluded to before, I have much more time than money, so my ideal choice of taking it into a professional isn't my first choice. I do appreciate your time so far and look forward to more input and also anyone else out there. Maybe even if your not a professional, what you have seen work well on your boat.

Thanks guys!

also what the heck is with Photobucket sucking? one more nail in the coffin for forums.
Old     (BOWZ)      Join Date: Apr 2013       02-27-2018, 9:37 PM Reply   
^I also have an onboard installed charger for AGM batteries.
Old     (Supra24)      Join Date: Sep 2013       02-27-2018, 11:22 PM Reply   
You are going to need a bigger amp to do anything with the type r or the w6. The type r hits, I'm not sure you will see much difference between those two in open environment.

It would be nice to get more power to the revs at the same time.

I'd keep it simple on the sub enclosure. Fire it toward the driver and build what fits. Open up the space, make a mock up in card board of the maximum size box that will fit, and then you can work backwards from there.

I second the battery comments above. Its not a brand thing .... you said yourself you were running out of AH.
Old     (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       02-28-2018, 8:01 AM Reply   
Quote:
I've been running them for years and have yet to find lackluster life/performance
Huh Your post is about reducing the woofer setup cause of taxing your electrical system. That electrical system includes a battery with too low of an Ah for your needs, period. if all you did was listen while riding, that battery setup is fine.

If you do downsize to the 300/2 amp, a ported enclosure will get you the most out of the setup. I prefer firing direct into the main cabin.
Old     (BOWZ)      Join Date: Apr 2013       06-12-2018, 4:31 PM Reply   
Well let’s get back on this again, I’ve changed up my thinking. Not worried about running the stereo with boat off. If the engine is shut down I’ll only use the 4in boat speakers.

Picking up my 12w6v2 from psi audio Saturday, meeting a guy to test and hopefully buy JL Audio slash 1000/1v2 amp to power the sub Thursday. I’ve specked out a box I’m going to build Sunday with 3/4” birch.
Outside dimensions:
L=23.25”
W=12.5”
H=13”
Internal volume is 1.59 cu ft (recommended ported volume including the .09 for driver displacement.)
External 4” x 11.5” port exiting the side of the box and 90 towards the front, ending on the same plain as subwoofer. (8.55 port area) tuned to 39.55hz for all around playing/music.

Wetsounds will remain bridged on channels 3&4 and 5&6 on the g6600 for a 200rms each rev8.

What’s everyone’s take on an external round port and one that would have a 90deg. Should I expect port noise from the 90? I would post pictures but photo bucket is a pay to use now🤷*♂️ thanks.

bowz
Old     (Medium)      Join Date: Aug 2011       06-12-2018, 10:53 PM Reply   
I just installed a JL 12w6v3 in a JL spec sealed box powered by a JL MHD 750/1 and it hits plenty hard. I don't think a ported enclosure is worth it considering the additional space it will take up and cost to buy/build the box.
Old     (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       06-13-2018, 7:14 AM Reply   
internal or external no mater, just volume. 90* wont create noise, but wrong volume will.

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