Ballast system

I was going to put in a semi-auto ballast system in my Air Nautique next week. I already have the ballast puppy pump and I had planned on using the raw water intake and mounting the pump in the engine compartment like many others have done on here. However I am now considering drilling "the hole" and not using the raw water line to supply the pump (mostly because I am thinking of adding a second pump) but I am trying to figure out where to mount the pump and drill the hole in the boat...any ideas?

anybody....
howabout opinions on thru hull vs thru hull with a scoop??? with the ballast puppy being self priming would it be necessary to use a scoop, I know it would be better for filling at speed, but it would definitely be an issue when trying to drain at speed, wouldn't it?

ok - I used 3 ballast puppy's in my boat - 1 for each sac . I would stay away from your engine.. no big deal to drill hole or get it drilled(like I did) and a brass scoop installed. Make sure to put a brass 1/4 turn ball valve on your scoop fitting for emergencies - ie blown hose/clamp it will shut the water off at the scoop before any hoses. My 2" scoop feeds a 1" hose that leads to a "1 inch 3 outlet manifold" that I got from Home Depot in the sprinkler area from there it goes into 3 separate 3/4" lines to each pump. Before the pump however, I put a 1 way 3/4 inch valve that I got from west marine for 15 bucks each. followed by a 3/4 inch "T" that has the right angle part of the T going away from the pump to an eventual empty line- you'll see later. the water goes into the pump and then into the sac. they are self priming and also will not fill unless turned on ie not passive so water cannot travel unless turned on. Now for the sacs- there are 2 outlets on the sac 1 is for fill/empty the other is for "overflow/burst protection" when the sacs are full the water flows out the hose thru another 1 way and out the side of the boat ( i also drilled 3 overflow outlets 1 for each sac so I know which switch to turn off. 3/4" hose for that too which I also got at West Marine its the Ribbed black and grey hose. No to empty, flip the switch the opposite direction )- speaking of switches mine came with switches prewired for the pumps BEFORE they stopped putting them in - they are worth the $$ to have them sent to you-- they LOOK VERY CLEAN. lighted carling switch rated for the pump that says "fill" and "EMpty" if you need a pic i can send one of anything you have a ???? on. so to empty flip the switch the pump reverses.. water flow out of the sac into the pump and thru the T when it hits the 1 way valve, it must exit some where -- cant go against the flow of the pump.. so it goes and makes a rigth turn out the 'T' and thru another 1 way valve and out the side port of the boat - 3 more holes... just like your bilge holes. te 1 way valve was necessary there ( i found out later) to prevent the pump from sucking air when turned on .. it would rather suck air then water.. so ... all told per sac.. 3 one way valves, 3 'T's 1 pump 1 switch, hose and a sac, 12g wire dont go any smaller than 12 if a long run to the pump. will not give it enough amps to start - also..due the the "impeller nature of the pump, i always flip the switch to fill for a sec to flip the "fins" inside so that they are in fill direction it prevents wear and less of a load to start. That was an issue some were having especially if they used smaller gauge wire. and durin install and periodically, squirt some silicone spray into the pump and run it a sec to lube - preventative maintenance i call it. all takes is undoing a hose clamp and removing a hose then reclamping. it's not nec but recommended for longer impeller life. just like lubing the impeller on your water pump. for storage.. cause the water is the main lubricant during use.

for all 3 pumps (167.00 each with switch), valves, sacs, wire, 2nd battery, professional drilling and placement of 7 holes(3 port, 3 starboard, and one thru hull(200.00)) little more than a grand. bith well worth it. i now have 1200lbs at the flip of a switch - been using them since May at least 1 day a week and since we both water ski and wakeboard, I can empty and fill as much as 3-4 times a day some days.. only takes 7-9 min and it has never had an issue..I would never go off my intake for the engine. too many issues .. no matter what someone says.. cowboy up spend a little $$ and drill the hole or have it done.
hope this helps - Brian

i also would recommend a bottom thru hull with a scoop - and not try to empty thru that ..just fill.. dont try to take it from the backof the boat .. some boats do.. like sanger/ski supreme.. but most are with a bottom thru hull scoop with a strainer.

Brian-
I am getting ready to install an almost identical system and trying to decide what to do on empty - put in 1 way valves like you did or add flow switches to the lines that tell me when the sacks are empty. Where did you get your one way valves and what kind are they?

Brian,

How did you get power to your switches? Did you run a wire directly from the battery to the "power" terminals on the switches? Thanks for any info.

ok.. matt and justin..
matt- go for 1 way valves jsut before the side port thru hull(bilge port, i put in separate ones for each sac so i know which one to shut off.) I got them at West Marine and just hose clamped them to the hose. they are 3/4" 1 way valves. Black about 2 1/2 inches long.. I think they are manufatured by whale. flow switches are way too expensive and not nec.. the ballast puppy has an "thermister run dry protection" so if pump is running dry, it heats up opening a circuit and shutting down. so flow switch is WAY overboard.. spend the $$$ on individual side ports & 1 ways for overflow and empty.

Justin - power was easy.. the switches were pre wired i ran 2 8g wires from the battery to a "5 post bus bar one for pos one for neg. then took corresponding 12g wire from the switches and ran them to the bus bar with a resetable pushbutton 40amp fuse for each switch - mounted similar to the dash switches.. i put mine about 3-4 inches below the throttle. see pics for detail.

here is the bus bar for the electrical

Brian,

Thanks for the info. I didn't know they made a "bus bar". That would work great. Where do you get them. . .radio shack? Thanks.

west marine has them in the electronics section....... by the switches and battery stuff... or online you might find them too.. west marine has a website..

One more questions for ya Brian. I have been looking for hose like you have shown in the third picture (white with black rings). Where did you get that stuff? I can't find it at any hardware stores, lowes, home depot, etc.

West Marine has the hose. 3/4 size is about 1.75 per foot.

Richard;

I used the scoop (1 inch inside diameter) and it fills great. I don't drain underway, but I do start to drain after the last rider has completed their run, then turn off the system while going back to the ramp. While waiting for the trailer I drain most everything else. If there's anything left (usually not), then I drain in the parking lot. It's working out really well. When I first put in my system I tapped off the engine, but found it was too slow and was causing my engine to get hot and I didn't like that.

I would recommend putting in a brass valve also known as a seacock directly off the scoop before going to hose or plastic. The last thing you need is a one inch hole filling the bildge in case a hose bursts. So when you pick your location keep the valve in mind. Make sure the location does not interfer with the trailer bunks or perfect pass paddle wheel if you have one. I would also try to keep your hoses as large as possible by mounting the hose over the outside of the ballast puppy input instead of screwing in an adapter that reduces the input size. Same on the output side. The larger the inside diameter of your hose and fittings the more volume you can push the better off you're going to be.

I picked up the scoop and I am trying to figure out where to install it right now...but I am getting nowhere. I have the stock ballast intake on the one side and the motor pickup on the other. I am going to upgrade my perfect pass cruise to a wakeboard pro next week and I am trying to figure out where to put that hole.

I thought about using the stock ballast intake and splitting off of that, but the intake is 3/4" and the valve necks down to 1/2" I believe. And I just dont see that being enough to supply the stock ballast and the new system as well. any ideas???

Does anyone have three pickups (2 ballast and 1 engine) with a perfect pass...I don't know where to put this second ballast pickup if I get a perfect pass wheel put in as well.

go down the the nautique dealer and take a quick picture under the boat. I hear the 04 SAN has a bunch of pickups.

Justin,
you will need this setup for your super.
it was in my old supersport, three spst, one dtdp
the three single controlled the fill / empty for the aerator type pumps in the v-drive compartment, the dtdp controlled the simer reversable that filled the ski locker bag.

Mike
email for details, if you need the setup.

gdogg,
the other ballast scupper valve is placed next to the other scupper valve, opposite the pp wheel. They are side by side...2003 sante

Mike

Mike D,

Thanks for the offer, but I don't think I'll be installing a automatic system until this winter. But, I still have a question about fitting one of those 440 lb. launch pad sacs in the starboard v-drive compartment.

On the website, it says the dimensions of the bag is 50"x15"x15". My battery only allows about 13" between it and the side wall. Did you just let the sac fill up around the battery? Also, there is a vent tube in the rear of the starboard compartment that would seem to get smashed when the sac is full. Did you just let the sac push against that tube also? Sorry for all the questions and thanks for the help.