Distribution block ?

I am having all new amps put in my boat a total of 3 with 1500 watts rms my installer said he will not run d blocks. He runs seprate power and ground for each amp is this common and what are the benifets?

If he runs all that cable to the batteries then perhaps you need to find another installer. Preferably one who has read E-11.

E11 ??

This is a well known and respected installers in texas.Just sounded kind of strange looks like thay would run 0 guage cable to D block

E-ll is the chapter in the ABYC standards that covers electrical installations. Your description made it sound as though he was going to run six conductors to the battery terminals. If that were the case then it would be problematic.
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Good luck.

To my understanding there will be 3 power and 3 ground all 4 guage what are the problems i could run in to?

What's the problem with a distribution block?

I use a fused one close to the battery, then 4 gauge to the amps. 1/0 to the battery from the distribution block. I DO however, run all grounds to the batteries.

Seems weird he wouldn't want to use a distribution block off the battery's. Are they selling you the wiring?

John, why do you run all grounds to the battery? I use the same protocol for grounds as I do power. Is it better to make the longer runs?

It is not real cost effective but its what the installer recomended. Am i setting myself up for problems? In large setups with multiple amps and subs it looks to be common pratice or is my installer taking me for a ride?

I think you just answered the question for yourself. It is not cost effective for you, but he is going to make some money on it. Look at it this way, if he runs individual lines for each amp/battery, it will add up to the same thing as a larger gauge. I would say that if you are questioning it, you won't be happy with the final result. Make it how you want it. Look at pictures of the installers other work and see if you see distribution blocks anywhere. That will tell you if you are being taken for a ride. If he uses them on other applications, then question him. Maybe he is out of them and has a ton of wire on a spool. Who knows?

The problem is that when you start stacking connectors on a single stud you start loosing the integrity of the screw and resistance = heat is usually the product. The NFPA, National Fire Prevention Association code calls for no more than 4 conductors, grounded or ungrounded upon any one battery terminal. I personally like to keep it <2.

The other issue is disconnect ability. E-11 and good prudence calls for all ungrounded conductors to be afforded disconnect. The only exception being auto bilge and stereo memory.

Again the issue is heat and fire.

Think of this way, if you have a component, any component be it a starter motor, alternator stereo amp, blender, marital aid.... whatever go to short and start burning wires would you like to throw a Perko and kill it or try to get those wing nuts off? Time moves in a hurry when shizz is burning. Sometimes fuses don't work as well one would hope. I ve seen bait and bilge pumps catch on fire (as in FIRE) with rated fuses installed.

The other benefit is knowing the boat is dead. Kill the mains and the boat is dead except for a fused bilge pump.

You millage and opinion may differ.

With Blue Seas ACR's and Power Poles it's too easy to do do it right.

peace

Hate, no real reason. Sometimes it's more cost effective to run grounds all the way, instead of using a $20-$30 block. In my Supra, the fuseholder and batteries are under the rear seat. I made 4 power and ground runs (8 4 gauge cables) to the amps under the console. 1/0 is up to $3.25/foot at my cost from Stinger, and 4 gauge is at it's highest ever. Wiring and accessories has gotten ridiculous lately.