Acme 1235

after a winters research we decided on going with the 1235 to upgrade from our stock prop on our 07 Moomba LSV because our stock prop sucks. We have a 325hp engine but with 2000lbs it boggs down on startup and we want to run 3k so how big of a change with the new prop be? I'm too anxious to wait and find out myself haha, I know we'll loose top end but thats not what I care about. I'm just wondering if it will make a big enough change to basically lift an extra 1300lbs..

I run the acme 1235 on our 2001 MC X-Star which has 330hp and with that acme prop and probably around 2 to 3500lbs of weight it feels like we have around 500hp. You will notice a huge difference in hole shot and all out power. I know Jay and Nintzel both run this prop on their boats with 5000lbs and have no problems. Top end was not a big deal to us, but I believe that we still can get close to 40mph with all ballast empty. You will LOVE this prop.

1235 works fine,a buddy of mine had one on his 2006 lsv .
1200 kilo of wieght and no problems getting out of the hole ,the 1235 is also much quiter >

I run the 1236 on my SAN which is the same prop I believe but right hand rotation. It will be the best and most noticeable upgrade you can do to your boat. With 3000lbs in my boat it gets on plane almost the same as the stock prop with no weight. It will definately take your top end down but who cares in a wake boat, I like cruising at 25mph across the lake anyway!!!

Do it, you won't be dissapointed. As long as you don't sink your boat, that prop will push anything.

thats exactly what I was hoping to hear haha. I just got done ordering it and it should be here by next friday so I will give it a test then. Also is it fully necessary to use a prop puller to switch out props or is there some easier way then buying the tool. We plan to switch out the props for one trip each year when we go to don pedro because we have to cross lake multiple times a day and the 1235 wouldn't work too well for that haha. Also it wouldn't be cost-effective to rent the tool twice a year either....

Adam I'm in the same boat as you (lol no pun intended). I tried takin my prop off today with no luck. I used a standard c clamp and didn't work. I'm think about goin to Auto Zone and get a 3 jaw puller ($20). That might get the trick done, I'll let you know.

Also adami forgot to mention. There alot of people saying that Acme 1273 ( which has the demension as the 1235 but larger cup .150) gives the same performance but with NO top end loss. I was gonna get it but for some unexplainable reason Acme says it won't fit my boat 2K9 Supra 21V Launch. So I ended up going with an OJ 475.

Jeff hey man I have a same boat 2002Xstar added ballast over the winter and was thinking of upgrading prop. What is your top end on your boat as far as speed? Thanks

You don't always need a puller. On my 05 ssv I removed the cotter pin and back the nut off halfway. I then took a piece of wood 2x2x6 put it on the back side of the prop and against the shaft at about a 35-40 degree angle. The took a mini sledge hammer gave it a hit and rotated the shaft and gave it another hit. After about 6-8 hits it popped right off.

Haha I've thought about it. You don't think it could bend the output shaft. I hate to do it then have some damn vibration.

Auto Zone does free tool rentals. I used the three jaw puller for mine. I think the deposit is like $45.

Tampawake,

I believe that we can reach the 40-41 mph mark, but you will need to keep an eye on the rpm's. I do think that around 37-38 was fairly safe.

There are a few people on this board that have done it with no issues. A friend of mine who is a marine certified tech for indmar,pcm etc. Said that is how he removes props 90% of the time with no issues. Only do what you are comfortable with though.

I agree it's just a little different when it's YOUR boat. I guess it's . . . Hamma Time.

the 1235 is the bombdiggity! as someone mentioned earlier, it will pretty much push anything! i also noticed that after switching to the 1235 that it was much easier to keep a consistent riding speed...really improved the performance of the Perfect Wrist

Im with Chad on this one. I run alot of weight and I went with the 1273.

Nice hole shot and for the most part I still have the top end.

So the 1273 will give the same pulling performance as the 1235 and maintain top end? Anyone from ACME on the board that would like to chime in on this?

^^^^^^^^^^^

Free lunch?

Granted the exaggerated cup should help top end performance a little but I don't see how you can chop a prop down enough to effectively double the boats displacement and not expect to loose something along the way.

Maybe the new prop comes with a nitrous system.

Bait,
The top end is while cruising with all of the ballast empty, I dont try to push full RPMs with a fully loaded boat. Yes I have the 400 hp hammerhead but I have seen good results with a monsoon.

And yes there is a free lunch almost every Thursday at Lake Perris just let me know you are coming so I have enough for everyone.

Thanks Bryan,
I don't eat much.

I guess my statement is a product of habit. I sea trial different boats every day and WOT performance is part of the norm. We just use the number of the boat at WFO with a normal load. I;E 1/2 fuel, four peeps, 1/2 canvass etc. To determine engine performance and correct prop sizing.
Rarely do I have the chance to drive a wake boat, let alone one with mega ballast.
These ski boats are a different creature and one I admit to not having a bunch of experience on, regardless of my expertise in other types of boats.
Be patient, I'm learning.

But it still remains that you cant increase low shaft RPM pulling power and maintain top speed. But that's like John Madden describing a fumble.

Our 2010 Axis A22 came with this prop, we just had the boat out this weekend, ballast tanks & sax full, wedge down and it pulled me up in an instant (195 Lbs.) prop and boat are awsome!

bahahah to the madden comment

I just got my Acme 1235 today and I'm anxious to put it on and go try it out! but first. It has two areas on two of the 4 blades that look like they have been sanded down a bit, I'm guessing this is to balance it out due to imperfect manufacturing but I'm just making sure that's normal before I put it on.

^^^You are correct Sir.