Drainmaster RV valves, durability? Supra valves??

I have two full seasons on my custom built ballast system which utilizes aerator pumps for each bag, and a Drainmaster RV "waste valve" to control water into the pump manifold. I noticed that the valve stopped working today while getting the boat ready for the water. Those that are using these valves, how long have they worked for you? I don't think the motors are repairable as the unit is sealed.

Question for the Supra guys out there, I saw pics of an '08 with some kind of electric valve for the ballast system, what are they?

If you have an auto-resetting thermal fuse installed, that may have gone bad. That's what happened to mine. I'm on my 4th(?) year on my Drainmaster and it's still going strong.

This spring, I put in some of those valves like pictured above that opened when the pumps were turned on and it slowed my system down CONSIDERABLY... I changed it back.

I'd stick with the Drainmaster if I were you.

Jamie,
thanks for the reply, btw, I used your install for reference for my setup.
Where is the auto-resetting thermal fuse? Is that something you wired in? I just used a normal fuse, but I know that I'm getting 12v at the valve, so unless the fuse in on the unit, it's toast.
How often did you lube the valve? When I pulled my, it still had some grease on it.

My DM valve is on it's 3rd or so season, but I had to work on it last year. I'll probably have to replace it this year. What happened to mine is that water collected in the cavity for the motor, and it had no where to go so the motor was just sitting in water. I cut the side of the cavity off with a Dremel, and got the motor freed up with lots of brake cleaner, WD40, and compressed air the motor. When I replace this one, I'm going to drill a drain hole in the bottom of the motor cavity.

The actual valve mechanism on mine still has the original grease on it and works great.

BTW, you probably can't split the case on the DM valve without destroying it - it seems to be cemented all the way around. You can see in the top right one of the spots I tried to cut to separate it.

When I figured out I wasn't getting it open and since the other option was ordering another one, I started exploratory surgery.

Yeah, I wired the fuse in. If you have power at the valve, it's probably toast.

Hmmm... good info, Trace.

They have new ones out now that look pretty nice... they come with an LED switch that stays lit when the valve is open.

http://www.rvupgradestore.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=290

Mine is starting to get a little unreliable. Sometimes it works perfect, sometimes it doesn't work at all until I jumpstart it a bit with a screwdriver on the manual override....

Thanks guys, I'll try the exploratory surgery first...

Jamie, I'd go ahead and drill a weep hole if I were you, and spray lots of WD40 up in the motor. You will be able to see where to drill if you compare what you have to my pic above.

Good idea... Thanks!

Done. I just went out in the garage and drilled the hole. No water came out.

I sprayed some WD-40 up in there anyway as a preventive measure.

Good that no water came out, but I'm kind of wondering what the issue is with yours now. Like I said, I'm going to drill the new one I'm bound to get soon before I install it.

That lighted switch is nice. Do you know if it fits in Carlingswitch cutouts?

There's a manual screw on the side you can turn and sometimes get the valve to start working again. I went through three of those and finally went to a manual ball valve.

Mine almost always works still. Just every now and then it seems to be "stuck" shut. Flipping the switch does nothing. Turning the manual override even just a little will fix it....

Weird.

No idea if the new switch fits in a carling cutout, but that would be nice, eh?

(Message edited by yooper on May 17, 2009)

Last night I connected mine to my battery trickle charger set on 2 amps, and got it to work after manually opening and closing it several times. Does anyone know what kind of amperage the motor normally draws? I'm wondering if I overpowered it, put it wasn't working in the boat. If I can keep from cutting it open this time, that's what I'll do. Mine is mounted in the engine compartment, and it being sealed is a good idea!

So, for your guys that are using these setups with aerator pumps.... these have to sit below the waterline, right? So... it's likely that bilge water is going to submerge them... are they water proof enough to withstand this?

Also, are you running solenoid valves on drain/vent lines?

Yes, they have to be below the waterline. No, they are not waterproof enough, which is why mine is pointed upwards, to give it as much height as possible. No solenoids in mine - just swing check valves on the drain & vent lines.

Jack, I bet you have water in your motor. I hear ya on the explosion proof issue, and honestly it hadn't occurred to me that I've made that considerably worse by cutting the side off of mine. I may replace it sooner than I thought.

I installed one two or three years ago and have had no problems with it, I am pretty sure it has been completely submerged in water at least once since it has been in the boat.

Trace, you were right, I drilled a small hole in my valve, and out came some RUSTY water! Thanks for the tip, I'm going to air it out and then WD40 and seal the hole with some silicone.

Cool. I will probably leave the weep hole open when I replace mine. If you do want to close it, I'd put a screw with some silicone on it in the hole instead, so you can take it out later to drain it again.