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Go Back   WakeWorld > >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive > Archive through October 28, 2007

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Old     (monkey)      Join Date: Oct 2002       10-10-2007, 4:50 PM Reply   
For years I've been spraying down my engine with WD40 and/or Silicon each use, but the newest generation of rust inhibitors are supposed to be once yearly applications, and are supposed to work a whole lot better. I sprayed the bullfrog rust blocker spray on my engine and transmission. It dries like a thin film of clear candle wax, (only it doesn't ignite). I also put the bullfrog rust cups in there. Does anyone have any experience using these product? It says that even in areas you didn't cover, the vapor will get in and seal it. It looks like it will work, and the reviews are pretty good, but I'm just wonder who else here has tried it.
http://www.bull-frog.com/products/#fluids

Btw, I read that T-9 is worthless and provides no protection... not sure if that's true or not.
Old     (deepcove)      Join Date: Mar 2004       10-10-2007, 8:57 PM Reply   
I am surprised about the Boe Sheild T-9 comment, I have been using it on my engine for 4 years which I use exclusively in salt and I have experienced absolutley no corrosion where this has been applied. it too leaves a waxy coating.
Old     (bob)      Join Date: Feb 2001       10-11-2007, 1:10 AM Reply   
I also use boeshield and it leaves a waxy film just like your bull-frog. I know with all the hours on my boat I would have way more problems related to corrosion if I had not been using the boeshield.
Old     (jayc)      Join Date: Sep 2002       10-11-2007, 3:06 AM Reply   
I just use wd40. Spray the whole engine and tranny down after each use.

I have a few components with some surface rust but seeing as my boat is 10 years old its pretty damn clean. I've always got a lot of water in the bilge from people getting in and out, taking rollers etc. which is why the underside of my vdrive has some rust.

I took the engine, tranny and v drive out a few months ago for some work on the hull and a quick wire brush on the casing and looks good again.

I get through a gallon of wd40 each year and its really cheap.
Old     (monkey)      Join Date: Oct 2002       10-11-2007, 8:05 AM Reply   
Well, the T-9 thing was on the website of the manufacturer of the active ingredient for Bull-Frog, but it was from this article in powerboat magazine, that rates the various products:
http://www.cortecvci.com/Publications/Reports/powerboat-article/Powerboat.pdf

Fast forward to the section that says "Individual Evaluations"
Old     (jayc)      Join Date: Sep 2002       10-11-2007, 11:37 AM Reply   
engine

Picture of 10 year old motor used in saltwater regually sprayed with wd40

(Message edited by jayc on October 11, 2007)
Old     (monkey)      Join Date: Oct 2002       10-11-2007, 12:36 PM Reply   
Beauty! Except for those hard to reach places... While you have it out, you should spray it top to bottom with one of these newer corrosion inhibitors. They're pretty cheap, they're supposed to be more effective. and they only need to be applied once per year, rather than after each use. As far as I know, nothing in the rulebook says you can't keep using WD40 on top of them...
Old    dabigkahuna            10-11-2007, 3:26 PM Reply   
I have used the Bullfrog products and they do work great. In fact, I had dinner in Hawaii with the President and Founder of the company who makes it (Cortec) and his wife, really cool people! I first got introduced to them by way of beeing involved in the Aviation Corrosion Control Industry. Their prodcuts work really good, however here is some feedback that I have:


The Rust Blocker works great, but it is thick and it is a little difficult to apply to hard to reach areas. It is really thick and will last a LONG time. In fact, I still have the waxy film on top of my motor, trany, and v-drive after 3 years. I have tried to wash it off with industrial anti-corrosive soaps, including the one that Cortec sells, but it takes elbow grease to get it off. If you can’t get to the area, the stuff pretty much stays there. The longevity issue is a good/bad thing. It’s good because it stays on a LONG time, it’s bad because in a year when you go to reapply it (after a year the vapor phase of the product is no longer effective) you can’t get the old layer off, so you get a big build-up. I have decided to just apply lots of WD-40 on top of the existing Bullfrog on a regular basis. If the Bullfrog starts to come off (which really hasn’t happened yet on a large scale basis) I’ll just apply more Bullfrog to that area and then continue with the WD-40 treatment.

I use Salt Away on pretty much everything because it’s cheap compared to the Cortec Military Spec. Equivalent (which I used to use). However, I don’t spray the motor, trany, and V-Drive down with it much anymore, as I think the water can start to cause problems with the electrical systems. Instead, I just use lots of WD-40 and use it as a cleaner/protectant.

I use the Bull Frog VPCI Cups under the dash and near my amps, and the Foam Pads in the engine compartment.

One thing I’ve learned through all of this, if you have any saltwater getting on the engine or trany or V-drive, and it sits on it, you will get rust! No matter how much anti-corrosive agents you are using, you will get rust, believe me! I had a small exhaust manifold leak and the salt made it’s way through all of my layers of protection and created rust. Not a big deal, I just wire-brushed the areas, cleaned it as best as possible, applied Extend Rust Treatment (turns rust into a non-corrosive primer surface) and retreated it with Bull Frog and WD-40.

Aint Salt Fun!!
Old     (olskooltige)      Join Date: Mar 2007       10-12-2007, 11:36 AM Reply   
In the offshore aviation industry (worst environment for metal), we use Corrosion-X. Years of WD-40, and other product testing have revealed it (CorrosionX) to be the best. We also use Rejex for waxing. I use it on my boat now as well. It is good stuff. I switched after seeing what it does for bugs on the front of windscreens in the aircraft.
Old     (monkey)      Join Date: Oct 2002       10-12-2007, 11:40 AM Reply   
Kahuna, that's good info. Thanks.

What kind of planes do you fly?

We have a 2001 C-172 SP parked at the local airport... We have alot of fun with it.
Old    dabigkahuna            10-12-2007, 12:19 PM Reply   
Aloha Tim,

I fly 737s for Aloha Airlines, but I fly 172s etc. for fun too. In fact, I'm heading to the airport right now to go fly a 172-SP!
Old     (monkey)      Join Date: Oct 2002       10-14-2007, 9:18 AM Reply   
That's so cool! I'm wondering though, I've been told that you don't make any $$$ as a pilot until you've been with an airline for over 100 years, and you're flying the hugest aircraft ever built on international flights. Judging by the fact that you have the same boat as me, I'm guessing that's not true for Aloha Airlines???

Btw, I tried a perfect pass Kdw of 290 and NN of 100 yesterday, and it was holding speed within .1 to .2 on average, with the largest deviations at .5 when someone really loaded up the line... but that was only for speeds at 19mph or above, and the water was perfectly glassy.
Old    dabigkahuna            10-14-2007, 12:43 PM Reply   
Hey Tim,

Yea, pilots don't make what they used to. I have several other business ventures that help me afford my toys.

Thanks for the tip on the PP, I'll try those numbers next time out.
Old     (olskooltige)      Join Date: Mar 2007       10-14-2007, 10:27 PM Reply   
Depends on what the pilot flies. You can pull sweet money if you move out of fixed wing.
Old     (monkey)      Join Date: Oct 2002       10-15-2007, 10:03 AM Reply   
Steve, I did a search. I had no idea helicopter pilots made real money like that, and so quickly... with no mandatory retirement age. I guess I'll have to stop referring to them as "air roaches", and start thinking about flying one as a fun retirement job, when I'm too old to be a programmer anymore. Thanks for the tip.

(Message edited by Monkey on October 15, 2007)

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