sub box - sealed or ported? 10w1v2 versus 10w6v2

few questions for audio folks out there

what are the sound characteristic differences between a sealed and a ported enclosure? i haven't heard a ported box yet.

currently, i'm pushing 150 watts to a 10w1v2 in a sealed enclosure, but the box is less than efficient and the sub is pointed up at the bow seat. definitely not ideal. it sounds pretty decent, but i want more. my installer is telling me that he can redo the box and put it under the dash. also, possibly port it. would this make a big difference?

on the other hand, i could spring for a 10w6v2 which requires a smaller box (sealed) than both a ported and sealed 10w1v2 but then i'd have to replace an amp and then we're talking quite a bit more money, and quite a bit more draw on my 60-amp alternator.

what do you guys think? is the 10w6v2 worthy or not? i've heard the w6 and w7 line are a little over-rated (no offense, not my words) so i'm looking for feedback. also want to understand the sonic difference between ported and sealed.

thanks in advance-

i have a sealed box in my car and ported in the boat. IMO sealed sounds better in a closed environment vs open air like a boat. ported boxes tend to be louder than sealed so your current equipment may be fine. "louder" is kinda subjective to the listener. and so is the "overrated" part. what you're trying to do is push more watts to your speaker. hardly overrated if you ask me....

a potred box is a very good way to get more output from a sub especially lower powered subs.
ported boxes if designed right for the sub prodice more output and less distortion.

the 2 main reasons i wouldn't use a ported box in a boat is because they are larger and they can let water in the box through the port.

the main reason i like the sealed box is they can handle more power and produce a tighter and more responsive sound with a little more impact.
While ported boxes are maybe a little louder they also produce a boomy bass response that favors bass notes seen in rap/hip hop music while a sealed box plays all kinds of bass notes excellent.

IMO i do not think the W6 and W7 line are over-rated. They both are exspensive subs but you get what you pay for.
The W6 is probably the best sounding sub i have ever heard. Maybe thats because i have 2 of them in my boat. Also the W7 is by far the loudest sub while still posessing the highest quality of sound, but the W7 line requires alot of power to bring out the best of it.

what do you think is the minimum wattage requirement on the 10w6v2? right now i have the e4300 and i don't think 150-watts is going to push that thing hard enough to sound better than my current setup, but i could be wrong. I'd just add a JL 250/1 but that would be my 3rd amp, and I only have a 60-amp alternator. If you guys think it would be worth it, maybe i should look to ebay for a 450/4 and bridge 2 channels to 300 watts for a 10w6v2 and 86 my old soundstream???

if a ported box is going to give me that monte carlo hood rattling base then that's not for me, i'll stick with a sealed box. i just want it to hit harder than it does now.

(Message edited by brucemac on March 03, 2006)

Bruce I have a 10 w6 in a ported box in my supra right now being pushed by a 500/1 and two 10w3's in sealed boxs being pushed by another 500/1. the 10w6 freakin pounds compared to the 10w3's. granted ther is more power going ot it. like mentioned earlier I prefer the volume out of the ported vs sealed, hearing them side by side you can definately tell a difference. I think the bass in my boat blends well with that setup.

wow, that's a big box!!!

does that go under your dash? or in the back probably?

if i went with a 10w6v2, pretty sure i'd have to go sealed because just because of space

do you think an e4300 and a 450/4 would be too much for my 60amp alternator? only have 2 batteries too. but i did do the combiner and switch setup so i'm good there.

my thought is, i'd replace my soundstream 160-watt little guy that's driving my boat speakers and replace it with my current e4300 that is driving my tower speaks and sub, and then get a 450/4 for the new sub and towers speakers. or possibly just add a 3rd amp, like a 250/1 or something. my installer tried to steer me away from a 3rd amp though because of the amp draw and my charging system but we never really got a chance to talk about it in any detail and i never discussed saving some coin by buying stuff off of ebay either.

Bruce-Its not a question if your alt will keep up its more of question of how you listen to the stereo. If you play the stereo heavy, for long periods of time, with the engine off, then yes your gonna probably gonna run into charging trouble. If you play the stereo mostly pulling riders and cruisin then you'll be okay. Just top of the batteries with a charger at home so your not continously running your batts down.

Bruce that box fits up underneath the dash. ther is a ton of space in my boat up their, I lost almost not legroom (I'm 6'3") and need it. I'm running 5 amps total (105 amp alt right now) and just make sure I keep my batteries on tenders @ nite.

well, i'd say we listen to it pretty much 80% of the time just hanging out on the water. not super loud, and if so, not for long periouds. i just want it to hit harder and sound a little better at lower volumes. do you guys think a 250/1 would do the trick on a 10w6v2? i know 500/1 is probably recommended but it might save me some amp draw on the battery.

i'd say we probably listen like an hour, then pack up, cruise/ride/etc then chill, shake well, rinse and repeat

(Message edited by brucemac on March 03, 2006)

do you have separate subwoofer controls? they can help alot at low volumes but you have to keep an eye on them, an eq/line driver could do this for you, just an option.

i have low,mid,high and bass control on my head unit, is that what you mean? it does help quite a bit, but what happens is i end up messing with it at different volumes, which is okay i suppose, probably woulnd't be much different with another sub. i've looked into a an eq, but really just don't want one. i'm using a pac lc-1 for the tower speakers and that's pretty cool. i think the 500/1 has a bass control option if i'm not mistaken. so adam you don't think 250 would cut it on the 10w6v2?

i called around and talked to a couple guys

everybody said 250/1 wasn't enough to push a 10w6v2.

i guess i'll have to cross my fingers and hope that they can make the 10w1v2 sound better with a different setup and new custom box. that's kind of a bummer. i just can't see spending close to $1500 for a new sub (parts and labor) and that's about what it would come out to new with a 500/1. i wish the new 10w3v3's were coming out soon.

Bruce,

Using a 250/1 may not be the optimum power to throw at the 10w6, obviously the 500/1 is, but that doesn't mean that the 250/1 can't push the 10w6. Hell, you can take a look at the JL Audio site for recommended continuous power range for the 10w6:

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=6

250w falls in between the minimum and optimum power for the 10w6. Not optimum, but it will push it.

a 250 will be enough power and it would alot louder than the w1

get some more efficient subs, like some 12's

I run a 500/1 on two infinity perfect 12's in a sealed box. it sounds really good and absolutely bumps.

basically I am saying don't limit your selection to just JL. There are lots of other great subs out there.

i have 2 10w1v2s in my truck that are in sealed enclosier they both use about .6ft^3 and they are tight and clean but i prefer tighter than louder..
i run a 10 solo in my boat sealed as well and it is plenty of bass..