Closed tubed trailers.

I have a trailer with traditional "C" Channel tube's. When I bought my boat there was a option for the closed tube trailer. I was talked out of it. The word on the street or I was told. The closed tube trailers look better but some end up having problems with rust on the inside and that the trailer can "rust out". I was told when the trailers are welded together there is no way of telling if the welds are air/water tight. Some trailers get water inside the tubes and rust out?
At the time I didn't know enough to question it.
I regret not having the closed or square tubed trailer now. Just wondering if anyone has heard or had a closed tubed trailer that had problem's due to rust from the inside out.

I have a closed tube frame on my trailer and it's a 2000. There are a few drain holes on the bottom. There is a little rust on certain places but I certainly don't think the tubes are going to rust out do to water getting trapped in there.

We have mostly closed tube trailers here in the UK, and when used in salt they do have issues over time as the water sits in them.

first thing i do is take the plastic bungs out of the ends of the tubes to lets airflow through as the bungs aren't water tight and hold water in once the trailers been submerged.

on fresh water I don't see why it'd be a big issue though...

I should mention that I'd probably rate a closed tube trailer with a 10-15 year life (on top of the ancillaries needing replacing more often) - not sure where that puts an open channel as I have no direc experience with them.

A buddy of mine bought an 08 VTX with the Extreme trailer.... closed tubes, fully welded, galvanized, and painted. Supposed to last him a while. Not sure what the warranty was on it though. Maybe check with Extreme.

My '95 Tigé had the original Hensley closed tube and it was in fantastic shape for being as old as it was.

My Boatmate is a closed-tube trailer, which poses a few questions about the LED install as I stated in the other thread of G's.

I think in the long run a c channel is better, the tubes do look good but unless you get it galvanized dipped it is simply bare metal inside and starts to rust right away, plus there was the thread that showed how they put the bunk mounts in the center of the tubes and they pushed right through the tube.

they cost more.

channel is better, can be painted easily and lasts and lasts...

having a tube trailer does not make you any cooler. most people will never notice one way or the other.

Don't think most of us have much of a choice. How many manufacturer's actually still make c-channel trailers? I'm asking because I don't know. Most trailers I've seen these days are tubing.

Grant what are your issues with your trailer that you don't like if you don't mind me asking?

After having a tube trailer on my first boat I opted for the "C" channel trailer for a few reasons. They dry much faster, all the electrical is much easier to access, if you run in brackish water you will see rust on a tube trailer start to form at different points on the trailer. They both structurally can handle the same weight.

My trailer is galvanized but has been double dipped in black epoxy. It is easy to clean, dries fast and still looks great after 5 years of towing and having it in brackish water.

I really like the idea of having the trailer dipped in epoxy after galvanising.... do you have any pics?

I take it its harder than paint but eh finish isn't quite as good as automotive paint would be?

We are stuck with plain old galvanised trailers here and they inevitably look like crap after 6 months of salt water use...

Gramps: I think tube trailers are easyer to clean and look better. Thats it.
My "C" channel trailer trap's water in the shelfs of the "C". It just seems like you have more nook's & crannys for water to sit and spot.

I was wondering if when they made the trailers they dipped all the tubes in a rust proofing material like galvanising and then welded the trailer together and the painted it. I would think if you drilled holes so water could exit the trailer you wouldn't have a problem with rust.
IMO running wires threw the tubes is no big deal. I just wish they would stop using the cheep blue wire crimp connectors and switch to a fully soderd and shrink tube wire harness. IMO that would solve 90% of the electrical problems on trailers

C channel will last a very long time while tube will rust from the inside.All the joints and inner areas stay wet for a few days on a tube and eventually rust out.On top of that evaporating water inside turns into condensation collecting on the roof and dripping down days later.
With that said my boat has a tube trailer because thats what it came with.

I’ve personally seen twice, the after effects of tube trailers rusting out from the inside. Both times it was the tongue section of the trailer where the hitch attaches. On the first one, the tongue broke loose from the truck (leaving the hitch attached to the truck) and the boat/trailer ended up hitting a tree head on. The second boat, same scenario, but the boat/trailer hit the ditch and the boat popped off the trailer and landed in some dirt. Actually very minimal damage was caused to the second boat! But the problem is you can’t really tell the inside of the trailer is rusting just by looking at it. The “C” channel trailers you can inspect and I have never heard of any accidents, like the ones mentioned above, happening from a “C” channel trailer rusting out.

Every tube trailer I have seen including my Zieman has unpainted bare metal on the inside of the tubes. I suspect my trailer will not rust out but I would not want to use a tube trailer in salt.

I actually tried to order a C channel trailer for my boat but the tube trailer was actually cheaper since everybody is doing tube trailers now. Most tube trailers have several holes on the bottom side. I am sure it will last 20 years but probably not 40 like a C channel trailer.

I just checked my trailer and it has a few cut outs, about 2 inches long and 1 inch high. I can see that the metal is a little brown, but not a bad rusting problem. The rear of the trailer has a cut out also. I have a Boatmate trailer. Hope this helps.

If you are riding in salt, get a galvanized trailer. You will find most galvanized trailers are C trailers. The Extreme galvanized tube trailer mentioned above is "Extremely" expensive - yet very nice.

Sport Boat Trailers - makes a very affordable galvanized C trailer.

If you ride in fresh water exclusively, a tube trailer should be fine.

My trailer is a tube trailer and I recently asked the guy who sand blasted it if there were any weaknesses and he didn't think so. My boat is 2001.

I have seen two specific examples where the rust has destroyed the tube trailer. Neither one of these were high use trailers (sat around a lot) and were more utility trailers. Both of them cracked in two pieces. Not sure of the age.

Water and metal don't mix in my opinion, if you use it in freshwater eventually it will show rust, if you use it in saltwater it will just show faster.

I don't like the look of a galvanized trailer, for what it's worth you pay a lot of money for a nice boat and it might as well ride on something that looks nice and color co-ordinated. I get the benefit of a galvy trailer, it has been double coated in black epoxy and looks nice with my boat on it. Any rock chips are easily covered with the extra epoxy they gave me when I bought the boat. Before my boat ever hit the water I took liquid electrical and covered the connectors completely, I have only had 1 light go out in almost 6 years of owning the boat and trailer.

I wax my trailer and it wipes down nice and easy.

"Liquid Elecrical". Great tip Gramps. Kinda "anal" but I like it! Adding that to my boat improvements "to do" list!

If you have the choice and plan to own your boat for a while C channel is the way to go.

I have a 2002 extreme trailer that saw fresh water only until this August and it was already very rusty.

I have an old jet boat that has the c channel design and it's the original trailer, 35 years old. It's been launched in brackish water and it does have some light surface rust the metal is strong as ever.

If I were to buy again I'd definitely look for a c channel trailer.

here is a real solid reason NOT to get a tubed trailer...serious trouble. My friends over at Topside Marine know all too well the problems of tubed trailer frames. just scroll down to the pictures.

the ones who regret are those that paid extra for a "look" and got less quality.

http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/3183/635202.html?1224274215

I wonder if the SBT trailers would have not had the problem if they had welded the bunk support brackets to the tube itself and not on top of the tube like they did. Just because they made a mistake doesn’t mean all tubed trailers are bad. I agree that if your launching in salt or brackish water the tube trailer is a bad idea. I wonder how hard it would be for company's that make trailers to dip the tubes in rust proofing before welding them together and then making sure they have plenty of drain holes so water can exit the trailer. If I had a choice again I would get a tubed trailer. I wonder what companies like DHM and Extreme have to say about this topic. This cant is something unique to us. The off shore guys have huge painted tricked out tubed trailers. How do the keep they looking so nice. I have heard they have flush kits for the trailers and brakes

it has to be welded first, then galvanized, you can't weld galvanized it creates toxic fumes...dead welder.

welds are where the rust usually starts. due to the weld penetration.

they are never airtight, too many connections, wires have to run through etc.

I think also the tube walls are thinner than a similar size channel.

I think the tube is all about looks...not about function.

That said, the owner of topside marine has a custom trailer under his Sanger TX, tubed frame SS fenders, disc brakes, custom paint and lettering....he loves the way it looks. I don't think too many others really notice it though. Most people see a "boat trailer".

you know its kinda like over-improving your house, if you want it, do it, but no one will pay you any extra for it at resale time.

they just seem like more trouble than they are worth IMO.

My two cents...
I'll look over at the guys building hot rods and there all using tubed chassis, over converting them over to tube chassis.
Tubed is also stronger.

^^^And seems to flex less and just feels sturdier. My last boat rode on both, I much preferred driving the one with tube construction...

tubed trailer owners? sorry guys.

hotrods get dipped into water all the time. yeah sure. we are talking about boat trailers here.

big buildings use I beam and channel iron for stuctural rigidity not tube, because I beam and channel are stronger and allow full inspection.

tubed is not necessarily stronger at all, take a look at the pics in the thread I attached a few posts above...looks real strong.

those pics have nothing to do with my opinion they are just irrefutable facts.

I have had both tube non-galvanized (Ryan) and C galvanized(Sport Boat Trailers).

I think the tube trailer rode a little nicer and looked better. However, I had to get rid of it when I moved onto the Salt Water. All he best, reasonably priced galvanized trailers I found when I was looking were C.

To me, tube vs. C is a very close call. I think the actual specs and quality of the trialer probably make more of a difference. IE - you could make both a crappy C and a crappy tubed trailer.

Galvanized vs. non-Galvanized is the question.
If you ride salt, Galvanized is a must.
It is ugly, but not as ugly as a rusted out traler.

Flushing out a trailer is not practical over the long run. Really, are you going to launch your boat then thoroughly clean your trailer before you start riding?? Then, take out your boat and thoroughly clean it before you trialer it home??
If you did that, good luck finding people to ride.

I have a SBT that carries my '05 24V without issue. I personally like the look of the tube style trailer. I must say that after seeing the attachment that Andy provided, I am going to check my bunk welds.

I have seen some extremely nice aluminum salt water trailers.

Andy, I don't know who or why you say "you can't weld galvanized". I've been in the automotive trade all my life and have been welding galvanized panels on vehicles for years.

To properly seal a tubed trailer would not be cost effective, but it can be done. Simply weld all joints first, make sure it has access holes for drainage, submerge it in an acid bath, then a wash/neutralizer bath, dry it, then lastly through a zinc chromate bath, then topcoat as desired. Your tubes are now completely coated, inside and out. Same way they do car bodies in the factory.

Race car chassis and cages are usualy made out of chrome-molly tubing,(or at least should be), which is very different from mild steel boat trailer tube...

(Message edited by wake_upppp on December 30, 2008)

All the people baggin on galvanized trailers looking like hell. Then get one that is painted too.
Extreme sells it at an option. A friend of mine has one under his VTX with no issues. Looks as nice as any Extreme trailer.

they specifically exclude rust damage from the warranty...gee, I wonder why?

Those painted galvanized extreme trailers are super nice. I opted for the standard galvanized C trailer due to the huge price difference. However, if you really cared about how your trailer looked, the Extreme trailer would be the way to go if you need galvanized. IMO

Yea the Extreme closed tubed trailes are super cool looking. The recessed LED lights and removable fenders ect pretty sweet. How much extra $ does it cost to get the Galvanized/painted trailer

The extreme trailers look pretty good, where they get you is with all the added stuff "OPTIONS"...

Folding tongue, prop guard wheels, galva tube painting, spare tire holder, blahblahblah all options.

The thing I absolutely do not like about their trailers is the diamond plate step around the fender. Ask anyone with a 2 year old or older trailer if they have rust around them. Ask Dave Williams how bad his rusted out in a year with only freshwater use.

I love my trailer and how it came, spare tire mount under the trailer, double dipped black, electric brakes, folding tongue, back up lights for launching at night, prop guard wheels on the back.

My trailer has a GVWR of 6000lbs and my trailer weighs 1159lbs.

Good luck Grant

Gramps, my Boatmate trailer has all of that too. I too have looked at the Extreme trailers and yes they are high $$$. But I got the Boatmate with mine and I compared it to the Extreme and it has everything that they do, swing away tong, electric brake, LED lights, backup lights, prop guard, etc... Plus I got the extended finders and the rim package. Saved $K on it.

G - I would look into Boatmate also.

Just to set the record straight. Im not looking at getting a new trailer at all. I just was trying to clear up a myth. Looks like there is lots of truth behind the rust rumor I was told.

If I was in the market for a new trailer I sure wouldn't have gon threw all this work and done this http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=4cARz9ABSBI

Here is my aluminum/galvanized trailer. It was actually $1,000 cheaper than the MC dual axle trailer and in my opinion, it looks better. It has aluminum I beams with galvanized cross members. It is made by Phoenix Trailers. So far, I have been very happy with it.

I had no idea they made a aluminum/galvanized trailer. That's a nice option. I bet on some boats the aluminum trailer looks great and works with their boat and I bet on others (like a all black boat) it dosen't look as good. Keven it look nice on your boat because you have lots of polished aluminum on your boat I.E the tower and window ect looks good. Just think if you could get a nice anodized aluminum trailer to match your boat. Best of both worlds.

notice the i-beam, not tubed, construction. hummmm?

The Aluminium trailers are great for Saltwater use. Many of the boatyards in my area have them instead of steel and galvanized. Easy to clean and if coated with clearcoat, have almost no affect from the saltwater in general for many years.

That's a nice looking trailer 1boarder!

We have a home built tube trailer under one of our boats, the guy that built it sealed the tubes and then poured oil into them with 2 little wooden bungs on top of the tubes to keep the oil in and the air out. There's not a sign of rust anywhere, it is galvanised on the outside. Never seen so much as a drop leak out of it and it should be all good for years even used in salt like we do, although it's not a particularly heavy boat being a 16 ft outboard powered fishing boat.

What a good thread.

I opted for a galvanized trailer because at some point it seems all trailers start to look like hell but I ended up in salt water so it was a good move.

I wish I would have considered a c-channel or aluminum.

Remember, aluminum trailers have galvanized axles and parts for strength. Watch those areas as they will fail over time.

She still looks great Gramps!

sparky jay has been welding for years but does not know you get sick from it?

It even has a name "metal Fume Fever"

http://files.aws.org/technical/facts/FACT-25.PDF

Sparky what kind of professional are you?

Maybe you've welded a little too much galvanized there buddy better lay off the galvanized jays.

Andy, Autobody, 25 years and still kickin. You know there is safety equipment for every operation. LOL. Andy, if you're scared, stay home, I'll weld all your galvanized for ya!

try welding the heavy frame of a trailer thats galvanized, theres alot more galv than thin little car body metal.

I'm not scared just smart, somebody might read the thread and think nothing of welding on their galvanized trailer without the safety equipment but I guess you'd like that huh?

you said nothing about saftey equipment.

I posted a link to back up what I said I wasn't making it up.

I have friends who were union steel welders so I knew already that its not to be taken lightly.

This was YOUR post Andy: "you can't weld galvanized". It's ok to be wrong Andy. Your statement was false, that's all I was pointing out. Out.

False huh?
I didn't want to rub it in but if you insist.

I don't agree. try reading MY post again.

Sorry Sparkey but you are wrong. Alot of people have trouble here accepting that especially from me.
No this is what I said:
you can't weld galvanized it creates toxic fumes.

do you like to quote things out of context?
and where did you say that you should use safety equipment?
I posted a link maybe you should read it.
I think you've been inhaling toxic fumes a little too much.

I'm trying to prevent someone from doing something stupid.

I await your apology.

Quote from above "it is galvanised on the outside"

You do know how they galv a trailer? Its dipped in a bath of molten zinc so if it's galv'd on the outside it's also galv'd on the inside. You can't dip a sealed tube trailer as the air inside the tubes would cause them to burst when dipped so they have vent holes which allows the zinc to flow inside.

"There's not a sign of rust anywhere" Er yeah that's because it's been galv'd. That is the general idea.

Oh and you can grind the galv off to weld safely but it will never have the same corrosion resistance the galv has afterwards.}

who said its galvanized just on the outside?



If you are talking about me where I said
"the tubes do look good but unless you get it galvanized dipped it is simply bare metal inside and starts to rust right away"

you need to work on your comprehension.

(Message edited by bftskir on January 07, 2009)

Andy wrote: "you can't weld galvanized it creates toxic fumes...dead welder."
Andy, I'm not dead, I'm very much alive. Stop trying to scare people.

Oh I see you're right oh great one I am so sorry

come on over I've got a stash of some zinc you can put in your pipe and smoke. You must have built up an immunity. Its gonna take more and more zinc to get that same zincy feeling.

here's more articles than you can shake a galvanized stick at.
http://www.dogpile.com/dogpile/ws/results/Web/aws%20zinc%20galvanized%20illness/1/417/TopNavigation/Relevance/iq=true/zoom=off/_iceUrlFlag=7?_IceUrl=true

(Message edited by bftskir on January 07, 2009)

my friend who's a certified welder says you can die from repeated prolonged exposure to it.

At the very least it is no fun and incapacitating.

Heres a direct link for any doubters who haven't already been satified with the previous fact filled links

http://www.finishing.com/164/33.shtml

read to your hearts content.

I may need to work on my comprehension yes but not in this instance. Yes some of the words used in the quote are also used in your post but not in the same order therefore its not a quote from your post.

The fact I said it was a quote means there is no comprehension required. Its a direct quote from Jos who I think doesn't understand the galv process.

Jay that particular trailer is home built and back yard galved bro, Zinc paint slapped on with a spray can.

But yeah, you're right, I didn't have much of an idea how they did it commercially.

(Message edited by jtnz on January 08, 2009)

Man, you just missed the whole thing. Done un-safely, yes it WILL hurt/kill you... if you're an idiot. Kinda need to think before you type, that's all. When you say something "can't be done", and there's people that do that same thing safely and correctly on a daily basis it makes you look unintelligent, that's all.

Zinc spray isn't galv. It's better than regular paint but there are epoxy paints that have improved adheision and corrosion resistance properties now days.

Oil inside the tubes is good though (not as far as enviromental issues are concerned) as my tube trailer is oil/wax filled to help keep the rust off the inside.