Prop change tool question

OK so I originally went out to my boat shed today to put my new ACME 541 Prop on to replace my current OJ. (That was before I got sidetracked and had to spend the last 90min trying to fix my trailer buddy.) I do not have a prop puller and when I got the nut off and tried to pull her off it was stuck. I see there are two types of pullers. One is a clamp and the other I think is something you bang. since the latter is a lot cheaper, I was wondering how good you thought they work. OR is there another way to get this prop off without having to spend

$68 plus shipping. ( Is that a good price?)

http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1118

I use the OJ Prop puller which is simular looking to a C clamp. It's very easy to use and worth the dough for the 5 minute prop change.

I second the OJ puller. I removed my prop for the first time yesterday using this puller and it took about 10 minutes. There is no way I could have removed the prop without a puller.

Third on the OJ puller. Easy and much less likely to rap your knuckles on the prop or shaft.

Another vote for the OJ puller. Sometimes the prop will be so stuck on there that it will POP off really loud as you tighten up that clamp. I can't imagine banging on that brass prop enough to get it off without damaging it.

how much torque do you apply to the nut when you put the prop back on.

I'm not sure I ever read a spec on that. I'd guess 35 - 50 lbs. Doesn't really matter since your using a nylock nut & cotter pin.

wanna save the $ for buying the prop puller?
get two c clamps..put the fixed end on the shaft and the spinning end on opposing sides of the back of the prop.. get you a rubber mallet and tap on the shaft of the c clamps. worked for me..
just make sure someone is there to catch the prop as it comes loose.. you can leave the nut on but very loose and it won't fall of...

Granted, the prop puller will be much easier, safer...but this worked for me.

It is a tapered shaft that is why they are that tight. The puller is best but if you can get a clamp or something pulling on the prop then hit the base of the prop with a hammer the vibration will pop it off without using a ton of pressure (I am a mechanic on heavy equipment and deal with tapered shafts all the time) I bought a cheap 2 jaw puller from harber freight and used that trick the last time I had to remove mine and it came off easy.

Harmonic pullers are just as good and cost a fraction of the clamp style. Works just like what davee22ve is talking about, only without the possibility of damaging treads.

just go to your boat shop they will pull it for free

I used a cheap ($10) 2 arm gear puller from Harber Freight several times and it worked fine.

Just put a cresent wrench around the shaft behind the prop and lightly tap the wrench with a hammer. Make sure the nut is still slightly on the shaft so the prop doesn't fall off. I've removed mine this way several times. A prop puller is not needed for this.

Jman

(Message edited by jmanolinsky on February 11, 2008)

Karl must be on vacation.. I had the same question and when Karl Da Man sold me mine he said this. They both do the same job. The brass strike or " harmonic puller" requires you screw it to the end of the shaft loosen half a turn and hit with ball peen hammer, its a finesse thing. After doing a few times a solid blow is all it needs.
Harmonic meaning vibration is what makes the prop release. You can spend more on the clamp kind which does work but you again have to hit it just like the harmonic one. Ford chevy, tomato, wake world opinion...all right in the end

Karl is da man and his puller be affordable.

got a shop to borrow one from? mine charged a 20 spot to pop it on

Spend the money and get the right prop puller. The first time I pulled my prop, I took the nut off, and the prop fell into my hands. The next time I hoped for the same. No go. I hit it, tried in vain with 2 types of gear pullers, and it would not move. Went to the boat shop and picked up the correct puller made for props (can't remember the brand name), and it still took some work, but got the job done. Well worth the money.

I was kind of leary of striking my shaft (that doesn't sound right!) and I'm not a mechanic but went with the harmonic one to save some money and it was super easy. I could imagine Jman's method working just as well too.

Jman, that sounds like a good idea! Unfortunately I just ordered one this AM from Overtons before I read your post. I'll try the crescent/hammer idea when I get home tonight. Hopefully it will work and I can cancel my order this PM

i used a crowbar with a towel on the end, 3 good smacks and it was off

bmartin, I'm not saying hit the prop or the shaft. Open the wrench up until it will slip over the shaft behind (actually in front) the prop. Hold the opposite end of the wrench and lightly tap the wrench next to the shaft. You are hitting the wrench which is up against the prop collar. It will just slide right off. My shaft is tapered, but I think this works on a splined shaft (MC) as well.

Jman

Let us know how it works out, OP.

(Message edited by jmanolinsky on February 11, 2008)

harmonic pullers are great. ill never use a tratitional style puller again.

Another vote for the harmonic.

Don't be afraid to smack it pretty good. I loaned mine to a neighbor and he had to come back down twice to confirm he was doing it right, the prop wasn't coming off. He was afraid to put some swing into it, thinking he would screw up his shaft or tranny or something. It's funny explaining to someone how to do something so simple, 3 times.

The "weekend saver" prop bag with a harmonic puller, key, nut, and a spare prop should go on your list of things to keep on the boat.

harmonic pullers are great, but they don't always work...sometimes you'll have to apply heat to the shaft. I have both types of pullers and while I normally use the harmonic...I use my Acme clamp-style puller when the harmonic fails.

OK, I got home and I have been trying the crescent hammer Idea for about 30 minitues. No luck, NADA, and I am banging the %$#@ out of crescent wrench and it just ain't movin! I even put oil on the backside shaft of the prop to hopefully let seat in. I do not think a harmonic puller is going to work on this baby. The C clamp puller should be here in a few days, I really hope this puppy will do the trick. It is basically just clamp it on and ratchet the screw right? or are there other little tricks that I should do as well?

Leave the nut on at the end of the shaft to prevent prop from flying off, you still need to tap the puller as you tighten the screw...

how hard of a tap on the puller?

I made mine.

I cut the end off of a C clamp and welded on a metal "U" works just like the $68 one and didn't cost me anything but a piece of scrap and an old clamp.

OK, Leonard, I must be really luck then. I've used this method at least 5 or 6 times. My friend who has been boating over 40 years is the one who told me to try this. Sorry it didn't work for you.

Jman

Jman, thanks for the tip anyways man! It was worth a shot. I just really hope this clamp tool will work when I get it.

don't know if it helps, but I put grease on the shaft before putting a prop on with the assumption that it won't sease up and be easier to pull next time.

When you use a C-Clamp puller, you strike the bow end of the puller toward the stern. DO NOT crank down on the puller to break free the prop! Although successful more often than not, many people have damaged the threads of their prop shaft or bent the puller to failure.

I use and recommend the Acme Harmonic puller. For the price, it is the best value in boating. To prevent the prop from sticking on the shaft, I use teflon pipe dope (paste in a can from plumbing isle). It lasts longer than spline grease, is cheap, and often you have some lying around.

For the harmonic puller, I use a hand sledge hammer (4-pound) and just one hard swing breaks the prop free almost every time.

Yes, I am the guy who sells the props and pullers.

UPDATE: Prop tool came in the mail today. So I start to just clamp it on and BLING the thing just falls off. It was almost like the C clamp tool intimidated the damn thing to just full off?Go figure? because I was just banging on it the night before and nothin.

+1 bobt ten bucks at harbor freight and has worked great