Subwoofer?

So I need to replace my subwoofer (JL 10W6v2). It was in a sealed box under drivers kick panel, powered by a Precision Power PCX 5800 Amp. After looking around I see that from an authorized dealer they are really more then what I want to spend ($400+). When looking at unauthorized dealers I see that I can get them for mid $200. I've also heard that the jl 10w3v3 is a decent sub that i can get from an authorized dealer for $239. What am losing if I go with this sub? Also my wife thinks we need to go with a marine grade sub, but I see most people running car subs. Do marine subs sound that good and if so which one? I've really only looked at JL's and the WS 10" marine subs. What should I do? I don't want go sub-less for too long. Thanks

moon

What happened to the sub?

Moon,

Definitely get your sub from a legit dealer.

A 10W3 is lower mass than a 10W6 so it takes less power to drive, whereas a 10W6 will handle more power.

Most people don't know that JL Audio has separate free-air and small-box woofers in a dedicated marine product.

$280 shipped.

David
Earmark Marine

Bravox makes the Wetsounds subs so if you like the WS 10" you can get a pretty much identical sub "Bravox Audio EXS10D-4" minus the wetsounds logo for cheaper. About a $50 dollar difference but hey it's a savings. You could move up to the 12" and still be under the cost of a single WS 10". I guess it would depend though if the amp you have could drive the 12" too.



As soon as I wear out my Kicker L5 10" which probably won't be for a while LOL, I think I am going to try them out.

(Message edited by bjeremi on July 11, 2009)

nu bu, not really sure what happened to the sub. There is a nice big hole in the bottom of the rubber (so I guess you can say it's a blown sub). The previous owners did not have a cover for the boat (now it is covered by evolution covers), so the environment may also have something to do with it.

David, I have been checking out the the JL M10W5's, but have not seen any reviews on them. Have you done many installs with them and what is your impression?

bjeremi, thanks for the suggestion, I will look at the Bravox as well.

Thanks and any other suggestions would be great.

Moon

Moon what size is the box now? Unless you're willing to build another box for a sub your sub choices are really limited to the sq ft measurements of your current box.

Also what amp are you running to the sub?

(Message edited by 05mobiuslsv on July 12, 2009)

nu bu, I'm not really sure what the sq ft measurements are of the box, and that is why I'm thinking of going with another 10" sub instead of 12". I have no experience with building sub boxes and it looks like the previous owner (or shop) had to get a little creative to get it to fit where it is now.
The amp that I am running to the sub is a Precision Power PCX 5800.

Thanks,
Moon

No worries moon. Bulletlines carries the sub I was referring to.

http://www.bulletlines.com/Marine-Subwoofer-p/4552.htm

I am def no audio gurue but it looks like your amp would do a decent job of driving the 10". Don't really know much about the box size though.

(Message edited by bjeremi on July 12, 2009)

Moon,

I'm not necessarily advocating a particular brand as much as staying within your application so you can maintain your existing enclosure.

Sonically, I feel the JL W0, 3, 5, & 6 run consistent. It's a matter of sensitivity versus power handling. And, I really like the new marine models. They're impervious to UV and other marine-related elements.

BTW, before plugging a new woofer into an existing box, especially since your previous sub had a torn surround, it will be important to verify that the enclosure is still airtight.

David
Earmark Marine

I have been running a 12W3 for 7+ years with a Diamond D600.1 and haven't had a single problem with it yet. If you run in salt water or your boat never dries out, I would consider a marine grade.

Did the w6 work for a while while you owned the boat? If so, get the same or better. Dont' downgrade. I personally don't have issues buying stuff like that used, if the price is right and you can test it. Also, buying new from an unauthorized dealer that you can test it at isn't so bad if the price is right.


Don't downgrade to eh w3 or otehrs, even thought they might be good subs. You will be dissapointed.

David, what is the best way to verify that my enclosure is airtight?

thanks,
moon

Moon,

From the interior check for swelling as an indication of water damage and inspect the seams for any separation. Inspect where and how the wire passes through. Also, look at the mounting provisions. After installing the driver, slowly (and carefully) push the woofer cone in and quickly release it. The cone should slowly return if it is airtight. If the cone returns rapidly then it is drawing air in from the outside somehow. Hopefully your enclosure wasn't mounted directly on the floor.

David
Earmark Marine

No swelling and the box looks to be in good condition. All of the seams look to be sealed, but to be reassured what can I use on the seams just in case? Also, the box sits approx. 6" from the ground.

Thanks,
Moon