Need help with homebuilt tower

Hi guys I'm new to WW but hope you experts mite be able to help. I have Gekko G3 and when I bought the boat last winter it had no tower so I ordered a Aerial Assault tower and have been fighting it ever since. It never stays tight and shakes non stop. I have a full shop with a tubing bender, tig welder and cnc machine so I'm going to build my own tower as I feel the design of the aerial single hoop tower is the problem . What I can't decide on is what wall thickness tubing I should use and what hoop design will give the most strength and keep this thing from shaking. I have heard if you make the front and back hoop a few inches in different width it greatly increase rigidity but I can't find anyone to confirm this. I would love any suggestions on design. I have super strong mount points and will be using hyme joints to mount the tower.

Thanks guys.

When I built my tower I used 48mm (1 & 7/8") structural pipe with a wall thickness of 4mm (5/32")

You can't do a very tight bend radius with the structural pipe but it is damn solid as it is generally used for making work site scaffolding. The 4mm wall will also give you some decent meat to weld onto when joining the pipe, I used a Mig with mine & it went fine.

If you used a mig welder does that meen that tower is steel.
And how did u mount it to the boat

Nope it's aluminium. You can weld alloy with migs, you need to have the correct set-up with argon instead of a CO2 mix and a different wire feed liner in the gun cable. It is welded directly to the gunwale and is currently not foldable.

Thanks scott. I Really like that tower. Im thinking of building the same exact one for my boat. For those verticle side peices are there slight bends to them or are they straight. Tower looks great on that boat scott thanks for the helpfull info

It's a slight bend in all the verticals mate, bloody pain in the arse to get just right as once you bend it you can't go back. Make sure it has very strong welds as there is a lot of stress going through them especially where the fwd sloping rear strut meets the aft sloping top strut. That join is critical and you need to make the join as strong as the rest of the pipe to help prevent fatigue cracking and if it does start cracking you may have to put a small gusset in there to stiffen it up a bit. I made some gussets up but they looked crap, I found the clean look to be better and am taking the chance with the cracking.

I have found that the tower can can get some lateral resonance when going through continuous chop and I will be probably be putting some hand holds to act as gussets up in the top corners, going from the rear lateral member to the rear vertical strut to help with stiffness (see pic). I will manufacture the bimini before I do the gussets so they don't end up clashing, I may even incorporate the bimini's frame into the tower to add rigidity and cut the gussets altogether.