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Go Back   WakeWorld > >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive > Archive through May 25, 2007

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Old     (ccryder)      Join Date: Apr 2002       05-17-2007, 8:28 AM Reply   
I did a search but did not find any tips on bleeding trailer surge brakes. Any tips or links on how to do it and is it more than a one person job? I've got the Dot 5 Silicone fluid to keep from getting water contamination, just looking for tips before I start.
Thanks for the help.
Old     (razzman)      Join Date: Dec 2006       05-17-2007, 8:49 AM Reply   
Jim, before you use that Dot 5 make sure your system components are compatible with Dot 5, not all are. If your trailer originally used Dot 3 then you may not be able to use Dot 5. Call the trailer mfgr. to find out. IF you can use it you have to purge as much of the old fluid as possible before adding the Dot 5, force it through a couple times before bleeding or contamination will occur.

You can make a pressure bleeder with a mityvac, clear poly hose and a rubber stopper. Check this thread at Tigéowners.com; http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2706&highlight=bleeding+brakes it shows how to do it. I've done it this way a few times and it's foolproof. Use light pressure when pumping or you'll blow the stopper right out of the master. It helps to have a helper when bled to hold the lever closed so you can close the bleed valve. Do the furthest one from the master first and then the other.
Old     (cyclonecj)      Join Date: Jul 2001       05-17-2007, 8:55 AM Reply   
Hey Jim,
Check this doc out, it's not too hard to do.

Pete

http://www.epicmarine.com/docs/Epic%20Brake%20maintenance.pdf
Old     (ccryder)      Join Date: Apr 2002       05-17-2007, 9:20 AM Reply   
OK, thanks for all the help. Shouldn't be too tough.
Old     (boss210)      Join Date: Jun 2006       05-17-2007, 9:45 AM Reply   
you don't want to use dot 5. The higher the # the more moisture it will attract. The easiest way to bleed the brakes is to take a 1 gal container like a milk or coolant jug, fill it a little with fluid. Take a vacuum hose and run it from the bleeder valve to the jug. Make sure you have the hose submerged. Than loosen the valve on the backing plate, take your hitch and install it into your trailer. That gives you leverage. Pump about 5 times refill the reservoir. Repeat for the other side and your done. Its as easy as that...
Old     (boss210)      Join Date: Jun 2006       05-17-2007, 9:47 AM Reply   
By the way did anyone else notice the big f-ing mess that they made on the ground in the epicmarine post. I wouldn't want that in my driveway!!
Old     (superairdawg)      Join Date: May 2003       05-17-2007, 9:55 AM Reply   
I've found the Champion Trailers site to be excellent source for trailer info, including bleeding brakes. http://www.championtrailers.com/techsup.html#bleed_brakes

My last trailer (DHL) had a sticker that said to use DOT 5 silicone fluid, but my current trailer uses DOT 3. I'd run whatever the trailer mfg recommends.
Old     (ccryder)      Join Date: Apr 2002       05-17-2007, 10:57 AM Reply   
Thanks again for the tips. Got them bled, I used a ratchet tie down strap to compress/hold tension on the tongue while bleeding the caliper valve. Took 20 minutes and ready to go.

My trailer has a sticker to use DOT 5 silicone fluid also.
Old     (ccryder)      Join Date: Apr 2002       05-17-2007, 11:14 AM Reply   
Here's the strap for bleeding.
Upload
Old     (dkjbama92mariah)      Join Date: Dec 2005       05-18-2007, 10:39 AM Reply   
The manual for the UFP actuator instructs you to "stoke the actuator pushrod" with a screwdriver. That just sounds kinda painful. LOL
Old     (bremsen)      Join Date: Aug 2005       05-22-2007, 8:40 AM Reply   
>>you don't want to use dot 5. The higher the # the more moisture it will attract<<

huh? Dot3/4 fluids are glycol based, Dot 5 is silicone based and Dot 5.1 is glycol-borat based. The ratings have nothing to do with a fluid's hygroscopic nature.

Dot 5 is often used on trailers b/c it will NOT absorb moisture. The drawback to DOT5 is that it is compressible, which is not a good trait for passenger vehicles. I would use whatever fluid the trailer manufacturer recommends. If you use a glycol based fluid it should probably be flushed every 1-2 seasons since the moisture it absorbs over time will hurt performance and possibly cause rust inside the brake system.

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