Prop Removal?

I have to drive up to my storgae unit tonight to pull my prop off for repairs. Can anyone help prepare me for any special tools I might need? I've never pulled a prop before and just want to make sure I go prepared. My boat is an hour away from home so I want to make sure it's not a wasted trip. Some say I need a prop puller, some say I do not. I beleive I will need a special wrench (size?), and probably a pair of pliers to remove the pin. Anything else I should need?

Thanks for the help.

My prop was on TITE. Used a puller, put lots of pressure on it, and then persuaded witha rubber mallett. It can come flying off, so protect yourself. I think I used a large crescent, but a box end or 1/2 drive socket would work. Prolly like one inch.

in all honesty you can do it without a prop puller but it is a million times easier, do yourself a favor and pick up a prop puller kit on your way there. I have one that is in a case with a spare prop, I would never go without one.

My prop was just replaced about 15 hours ago, so I'm thinking it might come off easier, I hope.

When I get home in an hour I will look at what sizes the wrenches are for my prop puller kit and let you know. Mine is for a MC but should be the same as Malibu

i always have a short piece of 2x4 around when changing props, it can come in handy to stop the prop from spinning. place it on the prop guard and when the prop blade spins around as you're working the wrench, it hits block. that can help when loosening and tightening.

i would rather have a puller than not. you don't need a special wrench just a large crescent wrench (not a small one opened up all the way, won't fit). you might want to bring a new cotter pin in case that one gets trashed.

don't loosen the nut completely before you get the prop off, leave it on by a couple of threads so it can stop the prop if it pops off the shaft.

Bring a hammer just in case. I have pulled props about 3 times. The first two were not bad and the prop puller did the trick. The last one I had to wack it with a good crisp blow to get it off.

I've changed my prop twice. Both times I was over the water on a Hydro hoist. Both times I used a prop puller. Wouldn't attempt it without one.
The first time I just continued to put more and more pressure on the puller until "BAM" the prop popped off. I was getting a little nervous because of all the force I was putting on the puller.
The second time I was a little smarter. Once you get a good about of force on the puller (with the shaft nut still on a few threads) "TAP" the bolt end of the puller with a hammer (NOT a lead or brass hammer)and the the prop came right off much easier. I was ready to go in less then 20 minutes.
Good luck

I ahve pulled mine a few times.

i only pulled mine after damaging the prop, so more damage was not a big concern.

I loosened the nut with a 24" crescent wrench. yes that is right, a crescent wrench that is 24" long! i keep it in my truck as a hammer, a weapon, and a wrench for the boat and trailer's spare tire.

I leave the nut on the shaft to keep the prop from just falling on the ground after it is "knocked" loose.

I than give the blades alternating blows at the root near the shaft with a dead blow rubber mallet.

After hitting each blade a few times it pops loose, and then I take the nut off with the prop.

Also, bring a piece of wood (2X4) to wedge between the blade and the bottom of the boat to keep the prop from spinning.

But, my recomendation is forget pounding it off and get a proper puller.

Two kinds of prop pullers - harmonic and traditional. Traditional pullers are a C-clamp style and put pressure on the rear of the prop. You then hammer on the puller to get the prop to release. The prop nut should be loose, but not removed. This will keep the prop in place when it loosens up and flies toward the nut.

Harmonic prop pullers replace the nut. You thread them on and hammer the end of the puller with a 2-lbs hammer. It may take few swings. The prop simply vibrates off.

With either puller, you may have to use heat.

I use spline grease or pipe thread compound on the shaft before re-mounting the prop so it comes off easier.

Use a new prop nut and cotter pin every time. The nylon insert is a wear item. It is very disappointing to lose a $350 prop to being too cheap to replace $10 in parts.

The harmonic puller makes a nice paper weight - that's about it. Go with the traditional puller.

How did it go J-Rod? I agree with Swass. Definetly use the traditional puller. I just changed mine lastnight as well. I could not imagine trying to get a prop off without a prop puller. If your shaft has a key way put the new prop without the key way and mark it with a Sharpie and then put the key way back in and it should hit the mark if not, the key way is offsetting the prop on the shaft and that is not what you want.

I have pulled a lot of props, including the ones off my cruiser that makes the ski boat prop look small!

Unlike outboards or I/Os, an inboard uses a "tapered shaft". The end of the shaft is shaped like a cone. The prop slides on until the "cones" meet. The nut just pushes it on a little tighter to make sure it stays put. There is a "key" that keeps the prop from slipping on the shaft.

It is NOT necessary to have the nut be really tight. Because the nut is not tight it IS necessary to hold the nut from turning, which is usually done with a cotter pin.

In most cases, the tools you will need are:

A pair of pliers to remove the cotter pin (I useually use diagonal cutters so that I can grap it and pull it out).

A wrench for the prop nut (usually around 3/4" or 7/8". A cresent wrench usually works fine, the nut shouldn't be that tight).

A prop puller.

A wrench to operate the prop puller. This should be a good, long wrench as you may have to put a lot of force on it.

A couple short lengths of 2x4 (optional, but they can sure come in handy)

To change the prop:

1) Bend the legs of the cotter pin straight and pull it out.

2) Back the nut off so that it is no longer touching the prop. You can usually leave the nut on the shaft and still operate the prop puller so that the nut will catch the prop when it POPs and it doesn't fall on the ground.

3) Slip the "fork" of the prop puller behind the prop, the fingers on either side of the shaft. The "screw" part of the puller centers itself on the dimple in the end of the prop shaft.

4) Wedge a 2x4 between the prop blade and the bottom of the boat. This will keep the prop from turning as you crank on the prop puller.

5) Start tightening the prop puller. The prop may come loose with just a little force, or you may need to go find a longer wrench or a "cheater" to get more leverage. If the puller is any good you aren't going to break it, so just crank harder until it POPs loose (and it really is a LOUD pop!).


I do not recommend applying heat. The shaft is supported by the "strut", which contains the "cutlass bearing". The bearing is just a plastic bushing and can be easily damaged by heat.

When you replace the prop, I recommend installing a new cotter pin.

Rod

Swass - if you don't like your harmonic, I'll refund your cash. No problem. I hated mine the first time. The second time - two hits. There was a bit of a learning curve. I don't have a traditional puller, only the harmonic.

FYI - A hit with a metal hammer on the forked end of the traditional puller is sometimes needed to get the prop to break free. It is OK, they are made for it.

Heat is a last resort and only for a mangled prop. It is sometimes necessary. Particularly when the boat is moored for the season.

Karl

No, no, no. It's all good, Karl (wasn't meant to be a hint, or anything).

Just checking. My goal is to build the ultimate reputation one customer at a time (while still being in business and turning profit - no welfare).

It's also not a bad idea to mark a line on the shaft with a pencil where the old prop went to so you'll know when to stop cranking the new one on.

Duane, there is not a lot of room between the prop and the water when on a hydro hoist. Were you in the water? Did you build a scaffold for yourself? How did you do it? Bill Z

DiSab:

There is no guarantee that the new prop will seat in exactly the same place as the old one.

You shouldn't need to "crank" the new prop on. Push the prop on by hand, run the nut up to the prop, snug it down, tighten to the next alignment for the cotter pin. If you are paranoid continue on to the next cotter pin alignment.

Forcing the prop on any further will just deform the prop hub and possibly make it harder to remove.

Rod

Since we are kinda on the subject and in the same general area do any of you have any play in your prop or shaft. I can "wiggle" my prop or shaft with my hand and I know my prop nut is tight. Is that pretty common?