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Go Back   WakeWorld > >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive > Archive through June 10, 2005

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Old    dliguori            05-22-2005, 12:10 PM Reply   
I appologize for all the pictures - I just want to make sure it is clear what I'm doing. I have a 01 Tige 22i Type R. I am using a 2" thru hull because I plan to expand the system from 3 bags/3 pumps to 5 bags/5 pumps. I am using a bunch of one way valves which I know is a no no but it is neccessary in order to make this a fully automatic system and there is only one per pump that will effect fill speed. The two options for locating the huge thru hull and ball valve is between the engine cover and the back seats. The placement is scaring me because of the proximity to the prop shaft and the thing that holds it under the boat. What do you think? Once again sorry if this page takes a long time to load.












(Message edited by dliguori on May 22, 2005)

(Message edited by dliguori on May 22, 2005)
Old    dliguori            05-22-2005, 12:18 PM Reply   
I forgot to mention - I'm trying to decide whether I should mount all the exit thru hulls together on the starboard side or mount each one right next to the bag and pump. What do you guys think?!
Old     (superair)      Join Date: May 2000       05-22-2005, 6:53 PM Reply   
Looks good daniel I would go with option 2. Right infront of the prop might not be such a good idea. Behind the paddle wheel looks better. As for the check valves those are the spring loaded kind I think.? I would be afraid of the pressure it takes to open them. your bags might have a hard time with that amount of pressure on them. I think it takes 8 psi to open them, that seems like alot of pressure in the sacs. other wise it looks great as for the drain line I would keep it as short as possible.

good luck and keep the picts comming
Old     (tonality)      Join Date: Mar 2005       05-22-2005, 7:22 PM Reply   
I hope the arrow on the 1-way to the overflow is reversed...Other than that, looks pretty good. Are you not worried about the non-stainless fittings rusting out?
Old    dliguori            05-22-2005, 8:30 PM Reply   
Thanks Shawn - I was a bit nervous about option 1 You're right, when I've tested the system the spring loaded one way valves are an issue because the air that needs to be burped compresses unlike water and is giving me issues. I'm going to switch them to the flapper type.
Thanks for your response Tony - I think the arrows are correct, the one way off the overflow line is there to prevent sucking in air or water while emptying the sacs and the one between the exit line and the pump is there to prevent sucking air while filling and to prevent sucking water back in through the over flow. Everything that is not Stainless is PVC unless you are seeing something I've forgotten.

Thanks a lot for your replies guys!!!

Anyone else have any input?!?

(Message edited by dliguori on May 22, 2005)
Old     (superair)      Join Date: May 2000       05-24-2005, 7:57 AM Reply   
Daniel let me know how the new check valves work for you.

later
Shawn
Old    d_fresh            05-24-2005, 6:21 PM Reply   
Do the 1" hoses make that much of a difference compared to 3/4"?
Old     (malibuboarder75)      Join Date: Jan 2004       05-24-2005, 9:10 PM Reply   
Option 2



How much did that system cost to make? I might want to build one as a summer project, but using my 2000gph livewell pump.
Old    dliguori            05-25-2005, 3:31 PM Reply   
Doug - Its hard to say because I haven't tried 3/4" hose. People on various sites recomended I go with 1" so I did. I will say this - I should have gone with series 141 hose or something more flexible. The tight fit of the system has created kinks in the standard type(series 165).

Leo - I would estimate that Ive got about 400 bucks invested. That's everything but the sacs.
3 Pumps - $180.00
Hose and PVC - $100.00
2" Thru Hull - $20.00
2" Ball Valve - $35.00
1" Thru Hulls (3) - $15.00
Switches and Wiring - $50.00
Old     (actiondcpd)      Join Date: Apr 2003       05-25-2005, 4:30 PM Reply   
Daniel I installed a system in my last boat using 1" tubing and had troubles priming and pumping using that same simer pump. I had to switch mine to 3/4". Let me know what you come up with for the check valves. The ones you have look like they are right from home depot. I used those in my irrigation system and I can see where air would produce a problem. If you find a good flapper type post it. I'm debating using a simer reversible system in my new boat or just going with aerators. You need more pumps but when done correctly I think it is better... always up for debate though. Your arrow directions look correct to me. Hope you get it working!

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