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Old     (calabriaprov)      Join Date: Jan 2017       01-30-2018, 11:16 AM Reply   
I have a 2001 Calabria Pro V and the wake is pretty good but even with a ton of weight and trying different configurations, I'm still not happy with the wake. I've heard a lot of good things about making the trim tab/ride plate adjustable to really dial in the wake......... Anyone have a write up on it? I tried searching for it and people have talked about it but never really saw a write up on it. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Jared.


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Old     (romamg)      Join Date: Dec 2017       01-30-2018, 12:01 PM Reply   
I have a 99 that I picked up in December, have not had it out yet though. I just assumed looking at it that it was adjustable, but I investigated it last week and found it's not.
I feel a simple SS hinge in place of where it's attached to the hull would do the trick.
Honestly that is what I expected to find under there anyway.
Old     (TomH)      Join Date: Jan 2014       01-30-2018, 12:33 PM Reply   
Just remove the existing plate and bolt in a Lenco or Bennett trim tab.
Old     (bcrider)      Join Date: Apr 2006       01-30-2018, 4:33 PM Reply   
^^ this
Old     (calabriaprov)      Join Date: Jan 2017       01-30-2018, 4:49 PM Reply   
anyone have a preferred kit they would recommend?
Old     (soonerbilly)      Join Date: Jul 2013       01-30-2018, 5:48 PM Reply   
I looked into this a few years back.....there are no tabs that are the correct size. ( I have a 2002 Pro-V ) I was thinking that you could cut the current plate to about 1 inch and add a trim tab that was CLOSE, or even just using the leftover as the TAB with a stainless hinge. My issue was having it done with 1 actuator and what I would do with the holes. I had thought about getting a bracket fabbed up that would use the current holes and then mount the actuator in the center....but again never really got serious about it.

Last edited by soonerbilly; 01-30-2018 at 5:50 PM.
Old     (calabriaprov)      Join Date: Jan 2017       01-30-2018, 5:59 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by soonerbilly View Post
I looked into this a few years back.....there are no tabs that are the correct size. ( I have a 2002 Pro-V ) I was thinking that you could cut the current plate to about 1 inch and add a trim tab that was CLOSE, or even just using the leftover as the TAB with a stainless hinge. My issue was having it done with 1 actuator and what I would do with the holes. I had thought about getting a bracket fabbed up that would use the current holes and then mount the actuator in the center....but again never really got serious about it.
Maybe if I can get something fabbed up, then I can get you one too. Price you pay for having a boat that is kinda rare
Old     (soonerbilly)      Join Date: Jul 2013       01-31-2018, 6:55 PM Reply   
Yeah......but I kinda like having something a bit different.
Old     (soonerbilly)      Join Date: Jul 2013       02-01-2018, 9:14 AM Reply   
Do you know someone that can do aluminum fabrication? Id love a setup of some. My boat is in storage, but I'm sure they are the same.
Old     (soonerbilly)      Join Date: Jul 2013       02-01-2018, 9:28 AM Reply   
Do they make a single LED indicator switch?
Old     (calabriaprov)      Join Date: Jan 2017       02-05-2018, 10:06 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by soonerbilly View Post
Do they make a single LED indicator switch?
Yes, I could fab something and I absolutely love the fact no one owns Calabrias. I searched specifically for one. I drove across 2 states from southern Oregon to Idaho to get mine. Not one single regret.
Old     (soonerbilly)      Join Date: Jul 2013       02-05-2018, 11:07 AM Reply   
I don't know if i'd go that far lol....but its nice to be unique.
Old     (calabriaprov)      Join Date: Jan 2017       02-05-2018, 11:14 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by soonerbilly View Post
I don't know if i'd go that far lol....but its nice to be unique.
haha I grew up on a Calabria and I wanted another. Plus the seating is what sold me on the pro V
Old     (squeezer)      Join Date: Jul 2010       05-17-2018, 11:22 AM Reply   
First, please remember that a ride plate is very different than a trim tab. All a tab can do is add drag, a ride plate acts as an extension of the running surface and can provide hook or rocker depending on how it is set up.

Our Sanger V215 has a similar plate and I have looked at ways to make it adjustable. Good old fashioned V-Drive cavitation hardware using an electric actuator would be the best. It would be a custom system, probably requiring the engine to be pulled... expensive.

Arneson makes a bolt on rocker plate:

http://www.arneson-industries.com/pa...ucts&id=rocker

The right one of these would be cool but also over kill.

With the Arneson system as inspiration I am going to have a set of mounts and rocker arms machined up that mount a pair of Lenco electric actuators next to the adjustable support arms.

Will try and describe it...

Transom End:

Actuator and adjustable link.

Plate End

Rocker arm: Three holes, (actuator, ride plate, adjustable arm) Designed to use the full stroke of the actuator (2.25") to move the plate 3/8-1/2" total. A note here this is all the range I believe the V215 needs, your hull may be different. The description is making it sound complex but it is simply a class 1 lever with the plate pivot as the fulcrum...

I hope to rough the system out next month.
Old     (TomH)      Join Date: Jan 2014       05-17-2018, 1:41 PM Reply   
If you mount an appropriate size tab flush with the hull in place of the existing fixed plate, I fail to see how that will function differently in any appreciable way from that Arneson rocker plate on a wake boat application. There's nothing saying you need to or should fully deploy the tab - just tweak it to where the boat has the attitude you're looking for based on your current configuration of ballast/speed/activity.
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       05-17-2018, 1:58 PM Reply   
The plat makes such a small difference I'm not sure I would waste the time and money on it. Now upgrading your ballast, that's a different story.
Old     (squeezer)      Join Date: Jul 2010       05-17-2018, 5:41 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonblarc7 View Post
The plate makes such a small difference I'm not sure I would waste the time and money on it. Now upgrading your ballast, that's a different story.
There are true cavitation tabs that mount flush on the back...

The trick is a "Plate" bends in a curve and the water stays attached to the bottom in a laminar pattern. When it stays attached it acts like an extended bottom surface and can lift the bow as well as drive it down.

On out V215 I can see/feel a difference in two turns of the adjuster. At 16TPI thats 1/8 of an inch at the tab. I will take the time and manually adjust when going from surfacing to skiing. (I ski almost half the time so the difference is worth it.) On a lighter hull with a delta pad the difference is more than significant.

The barefoot guys with DXII's adjust their ride plates with a straight edge and feeler guages... It is that sensitive.
Old     (soonerbilly)      Join Date: Jul 2013       07-16-2018, 11:50 AM Reply   
Did you ever get it all mapped out Squeezer?
Old     (bass10after)      Join Date: Feb 2010       07-22-2018, 12:52 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by squeezer View Post
There are true cavitation tabs that mount flush on the back...

The trick is a "Plate" bends in a curve and the water stays attached to the bottom in a laminar pattern. When it stays attached it acts like an extended bottom surface and can lift the bow as well as drive it down.

On out V215 I can see/feel a difference in two turns of the adjuster. At 16TPI thats 1/8 of an inch at the tab. I will take the time and manually adjust when going from surfacing to skiing. (I ski almost half the time so the difference is worth it.) On a lighter hull with a delta pad the difference is more than significant.

The barefoot guys with DXII's adjust their ride plates with a straight edge and feeler guages... It is that sensitive.
eh call it what you want but calabria switched to an actuator type system and the boat hull didn't change, sanger did too. I've driven both and would go with the actuator system all day everyday. tell me how the water wouldn't stay attached to the bottom of the boat because of an actuator above the plate adjusting it vs outdated wrench/hand turns? the bow rises quite a bit with the tab up, and the nose is pushed down quite a bit with it down reguardless of the method of force controling it.

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