Full Range Vs. Component Interior Speakers

I know WetSounds is God, but I don't have the funds. I'm considering Polk MM's or Polk DB's, but the real question is whether I should go Full-Range or Component? Is going with component really worth drilling another hole to mount the tweeter? The labor I don't mind, but uncessecary holes I do. All my research says component is always better, but just wanted to see if anyone had any experience with both or in regards to whether there's a noticable difference on the water...

Also, my MC uses 5 1/2" speakers instead of 6 1/2" 's. Would it be worth enlarging the holes to fit 6 1/2"'s??

I'm wiring the outfit up to a new Sony Marine deck 52x4 Watts. Will most likely use an amp on the components.

I prefer components over co axial. I had DB650's for a while and swapped them out for some ARC components and to me they sound way better. If you can't swing the skrilla for WS650's you'll come up short on "good" components too. I've never listened to WS 650's but I believe they're sort of in between as their tweeter is suspended in front of the mid and crossed over.

One thing to keep in mind is that the POlk MM's are 2.7 ohm so don't plan on paralleling four of them into a two channel. If you go with the marine version then you're getting a 4 ohm speaker.

I think Hate covered most of it, and I completely agree that if you can't afford the 650's, you won't be able to get good components unless they're used or discontinued. There are some components out there, such as MB Quart, that mount the tweeter in the center just like a coaxial, and still has a passive crossover tucked behind the speakers. Those are pricey, but if you could find something like that it would keep you from having to mount separate tweeters.

If you have room and skills to cut the holes out, do it. The bigger woofer will have a better lower/midbass frequency than the 5 1/4" will.

Good choice on adding an amp. that's the only way to get good sound out of speakers.

Brian, a good trick to increase the size of the speaker hole is to get a hole saw the size of the hole you have now and piggy back another the size you need. It uses the smaller as a guide and trims out the needed hole perfectly. I hope that makes sense.

Hate,In all my years I never thought to piggy hole saws.Brilliant!!

Just remember.... run your drill in reverse to help save your gelcoat!

Or use an airsaw. The blade on that cuts through fiberglass like butter, and won't mark up the edge or around like a jigsaw will.

search ebay for the JL marine components.

hey hate, im planning on getting some 6.5 polks to go in my boat before the fourth, and i was reading what you said above about their ohms. are you saying that the non marine speakers come in 2.7 ohms and the marine speakers come in 4 ohm? just curious cause of the amp i have and the ohms would determine if i can bridge it or not

the newer mobile monitor series (at least the component set, MM6501) is a 2.7Ohm load with the external crossover. i have them and they sound great. running them at 125W a piece with the Syn4. they are marine rated. another key difference on the MM series is that they (at least the MM6501's) require a bit more power than the older DB and momo lines. they also have neodymium magnets, for whatever that's worth.

I use the entire Polk line of speakers, I would go with the MMs, they sound better then the dbs but also cost a bit more. As for Coax vs Comp, Comp tend to sound better, but require more work to install if you are currently running coax. The Comp will produce more midbass and in some cases better highs as well IMO.

Justin, as Bruce said its the Polk MM series either component or coaxial that are 2.7 ohm. If you go with the actual Ultra Marine version of the MM's (yes standard are marine certified) then they are 4 ohm.

MM 651

MM651 UM