Battery Isolator Question

Okay I have a 2006 Malibu VLX with the Monsoon Engine. 340 hp.

Like most of us I started with a smaller stereo system and it just kept getting bigger. I have pair of NVS Tyrants on the tower, Kicker solobarric sub 12", 3 pairs of polk 6.5 and 2 pairs of polk 6x9 in the cabin all ran by kicker amps x4. Also Wetsound 420, panasonic head unit with two wired remote controllers, satallite sirus and Ipod connection. 1 battery for the boat system and 2 set up for the stereo done by the stereo shop and a pergo switch. At the time when the system was a little smaller the stereo shop told me that I didn't need one, but I am not sure I trust that now.

I think I should of gotten a battery isolator long ago. My system now shuts off most of the time when riding and with the reading of the thread here on WW I think the battery isolator would help since my stereo batteries need to be replaced and probably my starter battery too.

Now for my question which battery isolator do you guys recommend and what amps should it be?

newmar 1-2-70

http://www.newmarpower.com/Battery_I...tegrators.html

You can go with an isolator, but you would probably be better off getting a battery separator, no voltage drop and less space required, Brett on this form can hook you up with a sure power separator, Sure Power have been around since the 50’s ….

Okay I am now really confused. Should I be thinking about an upgraded alternator instead? I don't even now what my monsoon engine is putting out now. Is it 70 amps or is it more? Does anyone know?

How do all these big stereo guys keep there stereo batteries charge?

2006 vlx should be ac delco 11si @ 95 amps if you have a serpentine belt / pully.

I'm sure David EM will chime in, but you could gain a lot of play time with more efficient amps. Kicker amps are awesome for the watt per dollar, but man oh man do they chew up some current.

fullspeed,
An isolator, as in a voltage sensing solenoid, will not be a solution for the "shutting down" problem that you described. In fact, unless implimented in a certain manner, it could make the problem worse.
A voltage sensing solenoid will do a couple of things. It will provide you with the convenience of an automated operation and it can protect your alternator from a sudden and inordinately large load that is potentially damaging. I do recommend a voltage sensing solenoid (ACR or VSR) but it must be within the context of a complete scheme that takes your particular system and usage in consideration and includes the correct shore AC charger for your individual system.
Its easy for a system such as yours, with mutiple high-current-consuming amplifiers, to excced the capacity of your alternator and to then excced the functional limitations of an ACR/VSR. To get a good and lasting solution there is no single prescription that fits every system. Its got to address the whole charging and audio system rather than a collection of random parts.

David
Earmark Marine

Thank you first off for you advice. The dealership I bought the boat from sold me a stereo package deal which was kicker everything. Soon after I took all the kicker speakers out except for the sub and put the polks in DB's in.

Okay so if I were to purchase new amps that would make my system sound better, run more efficiant and end the shut down what would you recommmend. What batteries would you recommend as well. I know I am asking a lot.

I have again 3 pairs of 6.5, 2 pairs of 6x9 and one solobarric 12" and a pair of NVS Tyrants. Those Tyrants suck some power i know. I believe they recommend 400 to 500 watts RMS each.

Thinking about my problem. I ruled out the battery isolator. Thanks guys. Picking up a new starting battery today for beyond dirt cheap, an Interstate marine battery SRM-27 600cca 750 mca. Hope that works in the specs needed for my engine. Then I started looking into batteries for my system, optimum batteries and Kinetik batteries. Buying one kinetik battery for running just my stereo, charge it after each daily use and keep a trickle charger on it in the off season it sounds like this battery would run my system during a normal day wakeboard on the lake. My alternator wouldn't be much of an issue since it would not be used for the kinetik battery recharging. Since I have the boat parked at the end of the day on our family's dock with ac power I can just plug in the charger and recharge it right after use over night.

Here is the battery I am thinking of. KHC2400
http://www.kinetikaudio.com/2009/pro...?C=1&P=KHC2400

Amazon has them for $269.
http://www.amazon.com/Kinetik-HC2400...owViewpoints=1


Please tell me if I am missing anything in this idea of mine.

Okay since I did not get a reply I decided to go for it and just buy the Kinetik Intelligent Battery charger. I hope it wasn't a mistake.

Here is a review and the place I bought it.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/gener...er-review.html

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...ice_Comparison

I was going to buy an on board battery charger, but after looking at all of them I decided that a portable one for me is just as easy as an onboard one and cheaper. The walk from the house to my boat on my dock is 60 feet. Either way I have to walk that far to bring the extension cord to the boat.

Thanks for all your help.