Stereo System Upgrading Help!!!!

So I’ve done a lot of researching on here and the amount of information has been a bit overwhelming, so I figured I’d just start a new thread about some stereo questions I’ll have for an upgrading. Since you guys were so much help in picking out a tower, I thought I’d ask about stereos also.

For a little history, I have a 2008 Searay 175 Sport with a Clarion M275 (I think) with (4) Clarion 6.5 speakers. I’m adding a wakeboard tower over the winter and I’m thinking about starting from scratch because I want the tower speakers (4) to match the boat speakers (4) and I want a radio with that has remote control capability. My current one does not have that ability. I’d like to keep the entire set up as affordable as possible but not cheap. I’d like the whole set up to be less than $1000 if all possible. If I can do it for less that’s even better. I don’t need a “floating rock concert”, but I would like a good, solid, all-around system.

So here’s what I’m thinking as far as wiring options go which will ultimately dictate my overall system. I have a few different routes I can take.

Option A) Wire the boat speakers to the stereo and get an amp for the tower speakers and sub. For an amp, I’ll use a 3-channel 2ohm stable. I’ll wire the tower speakers in parallel (takes 2 – 4ohm speakers to 2ohm). Then add a sub on the additional channel.

Option B) Wire the boat speakers to the stereo and get an amp for the tower speakers and sub. For an amp, I’ll use a 5-channel. I’ll wire the tower speakers independently on each channel. Then add a sub on the additional channel.

Option C) Wire the boat speakers and the tower speakers to a separate amp. The amp would be a 3-channel. If I’m doing my wiring correctly, I can have say the two right speakers on the tower wired in parallel (takes 2 – 4ohm speakers to 2ohm) and the two right boat speakers wired in parallel (takes 2 – 4ohm speakers to 2ohm) and then wire the tower speakers and the boat speakers in series (takes 2 – 2ohm sets and brings them back to 4ohm) and repeat for the left side? Then add a sub on the additional channel.

Option D) Wire the boat speakers and the tower speakers to a separate amp. The amp would be a 5-channel 2ohm stable. If I’m doing my wiring correctly, I can have say the two right speakers on the tower wired in parallel (takes 2 – 4ohm speakers to 2ohm) and the two right boat speakers wired in parallel (takes 2 – 4ohm speakers to 2ohm) and repeat for the left side? Then add a sub on the additional channel.

Option E) Someone on here with more experience than me steers me in a better direction. LOL!

For equipment, a lot has changed since back in the day when I did a lot of car audio. It’s been 15 or so years, so I’ve been out of the loop for a while. Unless Boss and Pyle have stepped up their game I’d really rather stay away from them. Otherwise I’m pretty open to suggestions.

Head unit – I would like something similar to what I have but with remote capability and the ability to play back all of the major formats. I don’t want to cut the dash so I’d like it to be a single din. Also, it would have to have preamp outputs. Other than that, I’m open to other suggestions people have as far as features go. I’d like to stay under $150.

Speakers – I’ve looked at all kinds and from a specification standpoint most are virtually identical. When I did car audio, I always had good luck with JBL, Infinity, Kenwood and Kicker. I don’t have any experience with Polks, but the DB651’s seem pretty popular. All those speakers have models that can be purchased for about $60-$100. Also as far as tower cans go, it seems that it’s cheaper for me to buy the cans and the speakers separate. Cans can be had for about $140 a pair, then say $60 a pair for speakers, I’m only looking at like $200 as opposed to the $300 or so that I’m seeing cans with these same speakers in them go for. What’s everyone’s take on this?

Amps – Like speakers I’ve had experience with many major brands and had good luck. JBL, MTX, Kicker, etc. I guess how I choose to wire it will ultimately determine whether or not I need a 3-channel or 5-channel. I would really prefer to have only one amp, just for space and cost reasons. My guess is that I’ll probably mount it under the dash on either the driver side or passenger side.

Sub – I really haven’t looked much at these yet, but I’d like to keep it the same brand as whatever other speakers I pick. (I’m just weird like that) My guess is that I’ll probably locate it under the dash on either the driver side or passenger side.

Almost forgot…Based on the current setup I’m looking at, do people suggest getting a second battery? I will park and play the radio on occasion, but that will be my only accessory I have. I don’t have anything else really drawing off the battery other than a stereo as my boat isn’t like one of your guy’s fancy space shuttle-esque wake boats (that I’m very envious of btw). This will be an over-the-winter project for me, So I'll be getting started hopefully next month so I'd like to have all my design set before then so I can start pricing things out.

Thanks for everyone’s help!

I'll probably get blasted for suggesting this but you can pick up a set of HLCD tower speakers from bulletlines.com right now for $200 without cans and about $300 with. You are not gonna find a cheaper cost=loudness tower set up that than that.

1st Douglas Weiss did you work for Extreme Networks in Santa Clara. If so I know you, if not disregard. It's a small world and you never know who you know.

I will not suggest product because of your budge you are going to be limited to what you can get. I will suggest that you go with option D

5 channel amp, 2 ch tower 2ohms, 2 ch int. 2ohms and 1 ch sub. Best bang for buck, only 1 amp to wire, and you can always upgrade later.

Thanks for the replies guys.

I think that the Bulletlines HLCD's are $374 on the website. If that's right, they're bit more than I want to pay, but I'll keep them in mind.

No I've never been to Santa Clara, but I wouldn't mind visiting. Thanks for the advice on Option D.

Here are some links to about as close as I can get with out nasty looking tower speakers to a 1K set up

Tower Speakers 2 prs $480

http://cgi.ebay.com/Wakeboard-Tower-Speaker-Can-Kit-With-Speakers_W0QQitemZ250491844593QQcmdZViewItemQQptZL H_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a527a37f1&_trksid=p328 6.c0.m14

Amp #275

http://cgi.ebay.com/Audiobahn-A5100T-5-Channel-5-1-Surround-Amplifier_W0QQitemZ380146801813QQcmdZViewItemQQptZ Car_Amplifiers?hash=item588283dc95&_trksid=p3286.c 0.m14

Sub $125 w/box you'll need a truck box to fit it in your boat

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kicker-C10-Subwoofer-with-Box_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQha shZitem1e5822fa92QQitemZ130327706258QQptZCarQ5fSub woofersQ5fEnclosures

Deck $105

http://cgi.ebay.com/SONY-CDX-GT520-CAR-CD-MP3-RADIO-PLAYER-STEREO-RECEIVER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4506Q2ec0Q2em2 45QQhashZitem45ed4fe633QQitemZ300334179891QQptZCar Q5fAudioQ5fInQ5fDashQ5fReceivers

Remote $85

http://cgi.ebay.com/SONY-MARINE-REMOTE-CONTROL-RMX55M-SEALED-IN-BOX-B-NEW_W0QQitemZ300341955126QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Def aultDomain_0?hash=item45edc68a36&_trksid=p3286.c0. m14

Add another $150 for matching interior speakers and 40 for wire, it's over 1K, but a nice cheap setup and still under $1400 shipping included. You can always upgrade the speakers and add another amp down the road.

Second thought, skip on the 2 pr tower speakers I listed above and get 1 pr of the 6.5 hollowpoint mentioned above. Much better setup and saves you some cash at the same time. I pr of the bullet HLCD will out preform 2 pr coax car speakers hands down.

Awesome Johnny. Thanks for the advice. Here's kind of what I was looking at as far as a set up goes.

ALL speakers 4 pairs $332

http://cgi.ebay.com/INFINITY-612M-MARINE-BOAT-AUDIO-STEREO-SPEAKERS-612-6-5_W0QQitemZ330356757428QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Defau ltDomain_0?hash=item4ceacc13b4&_trksid=p3286.c0.m1 4

Tower Cans 2 pairs $280

http://cgi.ebay.com/Wakeboard-Tower-Speaker-Can-Set-Ballistic-Kit_W0QQitemZ230373485744QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Def aultDomain_0?hash=item35a3546cb0&_trksid=p3286.c0. m14

Amp $332

http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-MX700-5-CHANNEL-MARINE-BOAT-AUDIO-AMPLIFIER-AMP_W0QQitemZ360185325685QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Def aultDomain_0?hash=item53dcb7e875&_trksid=p3286.c0. m14

Sub $78

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-POLK-AUDIO-12-720w-CAR-MARINE-STEREO-SUBWOOFER-4-o_W0QQitemZ400070362466QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Subw oofers_Enclosures?hash=item5d260d4562&_trksid=p328 6.c0.m14

Deck $105 (we were looking at the same one LOL!)

http://cgi.ebay.com/SONY-CDX-GT520-CAR-CD-MP3-RADIO-PLAYER-STEREO-RECEIVER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4506Q2ec0Q2em2 45QQhashZitem45ed4fe633QQitemZ300334179891QQptZCar Q5fAudioQ5fInQ5fDashQ5fReceivers

Remote $70

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SONY-RM-X55M-RMX55M-MARINE-BOAT-CAR-STEREO-WIRED-REMOTE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14Q QhashZitem4399d30197QQitemZ290343551383QQptZBoatQ5 fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

Yah, I went over $1000...LOL! I have wire left over from an old system I had in one of my cars so I'm good for most of that. But hows this set up look?

All great choices as well, but I would dump 2 pairs of speakers and 2 cans for the bullet pricing on the hollow point anyday. believe me you will be much, much happier. You can buy another set of bullets later and have enough amp to power both.

1 pair bullet = 4 ohms/channel
2 pair = 2 ohm

Amp example a amp that does 150 per ch at 4 ohm will do 300 at 2.

So not more amp needed to add another pair. But remember 1 pr HLCD will out preform 2 pr coax, may not look as cool, but will sound better.

2 pair Polk DB651-$60/pr
1 pair krypt X-$299
1 Kicker cvr102-$70
1 Hifonics ZXi6410-$175-run the four in boat speakers and the dual 2 ohm VC sub off this amp.
1 Hifonics ZXi6010-$175-run this to the tower speakers.

That comes to $840. You have $160 left over for a deck.

IF you want to find the cheapest price just google the part, ex. "Polk DB651". Then click on the shopping tab and then sort by price:low to high.

Sent you an email Doug

Stay away from Krypt! I'll leave it at that.

^^^^^ hahahahahahahhaahhbbbaahahaahbabhahaa

.........

Listen to Johnny Doug on the Bullet HLCD's you'll be happier with them for sure. I have two pair and out performed a guy with 12 tower speakers a few weeks ago.

Thanks for the info guys. I'm still shopping around. Keep the input coming. What's the thoughts on the second battery?

Always have a second battery on a boat, thats my thought. Get an Iso/Combiner and hook up ALL your stereo equipment to the new battery and leave the other for starting.

Spend the money on a battery instead of the remote if you have to, but don't get on the water without and extra battery you'll be sorry if you do.

sounds like everyone has covered this up and down. what the guys are saying about HLCD versus car speakers is something to consider.... take a few mins and read some information here on HLCD:

http://www.exileaudio.com/marine/?page=design

regardless of the brand you choose, this will help you understand why people end up alot happier with an HLCD speaker on their tower.

As for batteries I'd suggest a mid size Kinetik so you dont starve down your stock system.

peace!

Brian
Exile Audio

Brian, I'll worn you since you are new. Stop the ads for Exile. Read This note taken from the wakesurf section of the forum. Posted by Moderator:

I need to reiterate that we have rules against advertising on the WakeWorld Discussion Board. Advertising includes the posting of anything contributed by a person affiliated with a company (owners, employees, reps, riders, friends, etc.) with the sole intent to promote a company's products, events, web pages, etc. The only exception is that you are free to post event announcements in the Wake Events section.

If some of the companies on here put as much effort into promoting their products legitimately as they put into finding ways to "creatively" advertise for free on the WakeWorld discussion board, they might be able to sell more product! Sorry to sound bitter, but I'm really getting tired of deleting or re-categorizing posts and explaining our policy over and over again.

I hear ya. not my intention. sorry if that was inappropriate

Hey guys I'm back again with some more questions. As far as amps go, it looks like I can save a few bucks by going with a 4-ch and 2-ch amp set up instead of a single 5-ch amp. Here are some options...

4-channel and 2-channel
MB Quart NAU-460 and MB Quart NAU-260 for $195
JBL MA-6004 and JBL MA-6002 for $185 (I can't tell if these are truly 2-ohm stable)
MTX TM-904 and MTX TM-452 $290

5-channel
Kicker MX-700.5 $330
MTX TM-1805 $325
JL Audio M-6450 $300

What's my best option here? Sure we're only talking about $100 or so, but money is money.

Thanks again!

I upgraded my stereo last year, spending $1,700 for a new additional amp, head unit, woofer, tower speakers, etc.

ONE THING I wish I would have done that I'd now do differently. I bought a Pioneer head unit with iPod capability. However, unlike the iPod connector in my car, I cannot set the Pioneer head unit so that the iPod controls the tune selection. Most head unit iPod controls that I've seen (including mine) are a pain in the ass and not nearly as intuitive or easy to control the iPod as the iPod itself. When someone else drives my boat with me behind it, there's no easy way to explain how to select tunes. It's harder for ME to even select tunes using the head unit.

So, my big pet peeve: All these stereo companies design head units that mostly or exclusively control the iPod rendering it useless except for the music that's on it. Why re-invent something that already works so well and everyone knows how to use?

Make sure your head unit can allow tune selection control by your iPod. Wish I had done this the first time.

For your budget (which was about the same as mine) I'd suggest going this route....

I don't know what kind of remote you are talking about, either a hand held one or a transom remote or what but you can find that easy. For your tower speakers, I'd go with the kicker KMT6s and a kicker zx 450.2 amp. They sound datum good and you can hear everything from way past boarding length behind the boat. I went with the alpine type r 12" sub and another zx450.2 amp bridged. It shakes the water around my boat! I already had Infiniti kappa boat speakers and just left those hooked up to the head unit. It all sounds really good and I get compliments on my system everytime I go out.