volume control

(clotus) · (clotus) **Join Date: Mar 2009** 05-02-2011, 6:22 PM

Hey guys I would like to have a way to control my tower speakers separately from the boat speakers. I know about the Wet Sounds WS-420, but here is my problem, I only have the tower speakers amp'd, not the boat speakers. I use the headunit to power the boat speaker and an infinity 6100m amp (used to have the package until I upgraded the tower speakers to bullet hollow points) to power the tower speakers.

I would like to control the tower speakers separately from boat speakers, or simply turn off the boat speakers. It gets too loud in the boat for some people I go out with. I was thinking a super cheap way to acomplish this would be to install a switch in each of the (-) boat speaker cable. I am not opposed to purchasing an EQ, but do not want to amp the interior speakers. Any suggestions?

(wakebrdjay) · (wakebrdjay) **Join Date: Apr 2008** 05-02-2011, 6:38 PM

Check through your headunit menu you may be able to turn off the HU internal amp.

(ian_ashton) · (ian_ashton) **Join Date: Jul 2008** 05-02-2011, 6:46 PM

Kicker Dual Zone Volume Control, takes 1 RCA input and gives you 2 independently controlled outputs, or a PAC LC1 is a volume knob for RCAs. Not sure that these will work for you though since it sounds like the cabin speakers aren't amplified.

(AdamInMN) · (AdamInMN) **Join Date: Jun 2010** 05-02-2011, 7:10 PM

Look at a JL Audio CL-RLC remote level control line driver. I use it as a Volume control for my sub's amp.

It mounts inline between your HU and amp. There is a small control knob you can mount anywhere you have room.

(murphy_smith) · (murphy_smith) **Join Date: Dec 2005** 05-02-2011, 7:22 PM

Cheapest and most well-known and used solution.

http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=28

(chpthril) · (chpthril) **Join Date: Oct 2007** 05-02-2011, 7:38 PM

Keep in mind that a device like the PAC will not give you volume control for the tower speakers. It will only allow you to turn down the volume from what the head-unit is set at. So, unless your head-unit has an internal amp defeat, you will have the in-boats wide open and only have the ability to turn down the tower. To "control" the in-boat and tower zones independent, the ideal solution is to probably amp the in-boats and then add a couple of PAC's, a device like the Kicker ZXM-RLC or EQ.

Adding a toggle for each in-boat is a lot of work. Why dont you want to add an amp for the in-boats?

(clotus) · (clotus) **Join Date: Mar 2009** 05-02-2011, 8:12 PM

I do not want to add an amp for the boat speakers because of the cost, time for install, and quite simply it is not needed as the h/u does fine. I might have to add an amp, but was hoping to avoid that and maybe use the saved coin for another set of tower speakers with a better amp. Any other suggestions.

To clarify I want to turn the boat speakers down or off while the tower speakers are running and the boat speakers run off of the head unit. I will look into defeating the internal amp. Any other suggestions?

(shawndoggy) · (shawndoggy) **Join Date: Nov 2009** 05-02-2011, 8:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clotus

I do not want to add an amp for the boat speakers because of the cost, time for install, and quite simply it is not needed as the h/u does fine. I might have to add an amp, but was hoping to avoid that and maybe use the saved coin for another set of tower speakers with a better amp. Any other suggestions.

To clarify I want to turn the boat speakers down or off while the tower speakers are running and the boat speakers run off of the head unit. I will look into defeating the internal amp. Any other suggestions?

Pretty much any amp and I mean ANY amp will make your in boat speakers sound better. Guaranteed you can pick up something that will work on your local craigslist for under $50. Figure another $30 for wire and $80 for the kicker setup and you will be rocking.

A WS420 is not an option for you. You really need to have the in-boats running on their own amp to be able to turn them up and down independent of the towers.

(Jeff) · (Jeff) **Join Date: May 2010** 05-03-2011, 11:03 AM

The toggle is actually super simple. Just put it on the "blue" wire that turns the amp on, not the speaker wires. I have my boat setup like this right now. I had 2 extra switches on my dash so I just put a female quick connect terminal on the end of the blue wire and plugged it into the switched + terminal on that switch. This gives me manual control over whether or not the tower amp is even powered on.

A slightly better option would be to feed that switch power from the "blue" wire on your radio instead of power from the bus that's always on. This way you won't be able to accidentally leave the amp on. Right now I can turn my amp on regardless of whether or not the ignition or radio are on. I actually left it on one time for about a week and the boat still started. I guess the amp doesn't draw much power sitting idle.

(Jeff) · (Jeff) **Join Date: May 2010** 05-03-2011, 11:11 AM

Sorry, I guess my suggestion was from the perspective of turning off the tower speakers, not the in boat speakers. It wouldn't work for that.

(clotus) · (clotus) **Join Date: Mar 2009** 05-03-2011, 7:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff

Sorry, I guess my suggestion was from the perspective of turning off the tower speakers, not the in boat speakers. It wouldn't work for that.

Its ok, I was thinking to effectively do the same thing for all the speakers, 4 cheap switches on the (-) wire of each speaker. More work than money.

(clotus) · (clotus) **Join Date: Mar 2009** 05-03-2011, 7:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff

Sorry, I guess my suggestion was from the perspective of turning off the tower speakers, not the in boat speakers. It wouldn't work for that.

No worries. That is effectively what I am thinking, except switch each (-) speaker wire. 4 switches is a lot less money that a second amp, just a little extra work. Still thinking about it thou.