Fused distribution block

What is everyone using? I was recommended the Streetwires CBR44A block, but I am not sure I am ready to drop $100+ for just a fuse block. It looks really nice, but there has to be something out there that works well for a lot less. Which one do you use and like?

Are you talking about hooking up several amps?

I have been using the Mini ANL (also called KF or MIDI) fuses tons. Stinger has a 2 way and a 4 way that is built great and uses the Mini ANLs. They accept a 1/0-4ga in and they have 4-8ga outs. There are many other options that are much less but don't skip on protection.

I like these circuit breakers from www.waytekwire.com . Available in many styles and amp ratings.

Circuit Breakers
Marine Rated

MARINE CIRCUIT BREAKER 100A
SURFACE MOUNT
ABYC E-11, CE, SAE J1171

I think that was probably me that made the original recommendation. However it was not the CBR44A, it was the CBR44S. There is a big difference. I do not like using any snap in fuses (AGU style) for anything above 40 amps. They get hot, the springs weaken, and they have troubles. Grant was using the Stinger distribution blocks with Maxi style plug in fuses earlier this year and had the same issue with spring tension connections. He popped quite a few fuses before changing them out.

The Streetwires CBR44S uses solid blocks of brass with gold plated hold down screws. I had three other cheaper fuse blocks fail before I got it right. By the time you have it loaded with fuses and get a few spares you will probably have $150 into it alone.

The Stinger block Soundbox has shown above is probably a good cost effective option. The chrome plated brass and stainless hardware is not quite as corrosion resistant and conductive as the Streetwires unit, but I am sure it will work just fine.

From an engineering/electrical standpoint the marine circuit breakers work great. However, it's almost impossible to get them installed so they look decent. I don't think I have ever seen these used in an installation that I thought was clean. Guys tend to use them at the battery unnecessarily. 1/0 cable generally has the ampacity to dissapate the available short circuit current from most battery banks, therefore it does not require fusing at the battery (notice your starting cables are not fused).

Here is a picture of the CBR44S

I agree that the Stinger block is nice considering it will also take care of your grounds. I too had problems with the Maxi version and almost every maxi block I've used.

Mike-

"1/0 cable generally has the ampacity to dissapate the available short circuit current from most battery banks, therefore it does not require fusing at the battery (notice your starting cables are not fused)".

I haven't heard this before. It actually goes against everything I've known so far. Can you explain to make sure I'm not missing anything?

Yes I had some troubble with maxi fuses. First they just came out with 100 Amp maxi fuses, before just recently the biggest maxi fuse was 80 Amp. So that sorta fixes one of my problems. Second the blade fuses slide into the distribution block kind of like a credit card. Its easy when the distribution block is mounted in a up and out of the way to insert the wrong way and thats when your problems start. Example you can install the fuse sideways and it will work but as soon as you lean on the power it can loose connection and pop.
The simple fix is to make sure you install the fuse correctley. This is done by mounting the distribution block in a place where you can see the block and how the fuses are installed. All my troubles began when I was installing fuses by feel.

When you put the boat all back together its real hard to get to the distribution block. This isnt a item that you should need to get to often. Im still using this same distibution block and its working just fine. My problems were user error

if you are trying to save some $$$, walmart carries some fuse block setups, i think made my scosche. They are cheap, and get teh job done.

You can also ebay it and use KnuKoncepts.
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZKnuKonceptzQ2ecom

No sense in dropping a ton of cash on a distro block.

Here is another good ebay company!

http://stores.ebay.com/Bag-Boy-Home-And-Car-Audio-Wiring_Fused-Distribution-Blocks_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ9QQftidZ2QQtZkm

I have to disagree with Steve on the KnuKonceptz blocks. They do not work well. I used one before switching to my Streetwires block. The KK unit wouldn't even make contact at times without removing and replacing the fuses. I have one in my junk box free to anybody that wants to come get it. The heavy gauge wire connections are very poor.

On the other hand I like their RCA cables (as long as you unplug them using the end).

Mikeski,
Which block? These things are all basically built the same. Maybe it's the design you bought. Big glass?

I have never purchased a KK block. I am mentioning to check ebay for a non-expensive alternative. I have purchased KK wiring numerous times and have been pleased with it. If the KK blocks have quality issues, then I will not purchase one in the future.

I had issues with the compression ring wrench wiring inputs on a different brand until I did it properly. I found it to work fine after that.

I think you and I both agree on saving money on these types of items (and others too). No since in droppin $150 on a fused distro block when a $30 block can yield the same results.

(Message edited by OlskoolTige on December 04, 2007)

All you guys are wasting money. Kmart has the best distrbution block's. Just twist the wires together and use black tape. Fuses are over rated

The thing is complete crap. Cheap plastic and cheap chrome with black screws that rusted. The compression ring is made of pot metal.

Those big glass fuse blocks are all built that way. I have only used a Stinger and still have it installed. It has had no issues. It doesn't look that cheap though.

so quick question, I'm mounting two amps. Can I just use one distibution block with two inputs and 4 outputs to wire the positive and negative, or do I need two separate blocks?

One distrbution block and power 3 or 4 amp's

Then one mike posted a picture can power 4 amp's
The one I posted a picture of can power 3 amp's

I have 1 O-AWG wire running in to the block and 2 4-AWG wires running out of the block to each amp

SO G I get that, and if I am correct in what you are saying I can run a positive and a negative wire into one dist. block that has 2 inputs and run out two pos. and 2 neg. as long as there are 4 outputs.

you need one fused block and one distrobution block...do NOT run +/- thru the same block.

Got it, I thought that might be the case but I was unsure. Thanks.

Mikerod29,

The streetwires unit has both positive fused 1 to 4 and negative unfused 1 to 4 distribution buss/terminals. The other blocks posted are for either positive or negative, not both.

mikeski,
i have searched the net for that streetwires block, everything i find is that it is discontinued or the maxi block. does stinger have an equivelant?? i have 4 amps to hook up, and that combo block is clean. what is your opinion of the maxi block

(Message edited by gharvin on December 06, 2007)

Use a marine Circuit Breaker that resets. If not you are not in USCG standard for electrical/stereo. I know stinger makes them now. I get mine from AAMP of america which is stinger.

Gary,

I would get the stinger before using the Maxiblock version from streetwires. I know the screwdown fuse version of the streetwires block is getting extremely difficult to find.