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Go Back   WakeWorld > >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive > Archive through January 12, 2008

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Old     (absoluteboarder)      Join Date: Aug 2002       10-28-2007, 3:13 PM Reply   
....after having done some research in these threads...i have decided to go with the isolator for two batteries. I found this one as I believe I have a 90 amp alternator...will this work?

http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=140847439 6672454&bmUID=1193609134032&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=84 5524443300971&assortment=primary&fromSearch=true


It is cheap and I have found other upwards of 190 dollars...whats the difference?


also can I with the isolator have two different types of batteries...the starting regular and the accessories optima?.

(Message edited by absoluteboarder on October 28, 2007)
Old     (bob)      Join Date: Feb 2001       10-28-2007, 9:44 PM Reply   
bad link
Old     (absoluteboarder)      Join Date: Aug 2002       10-29-2007, 4:49 AM Reply   
......hmmm....it works for me ...whats up with that?
Old     (kenteck)      Join Date: Jan 2005       10-29-2007, 6:32 AM Reply   
Michael, here are some more choices to check out

http://www.ase-supply.com/Sure_Power_Isolators_kits_s/20.htm
Old     (rallyart)      Join Date: Nov 2006       10-29-2007, 7:59 AM Reply   
Michael z, the link needs a cookie so it just takes you to the intro page where you have to enter a postal code.

As soon as you enter a postal code you get the link directly. Example postal code would be T2T2A2


(Message edited by rallyart on October 29, 2007)

(Message edited by rallyart on October 29, 2007)
Old     (absoluteboarder)      Join Date: Aug 2002       10-29-2007, 8:32 AM Reply   
.....thanks art...makes sense....okay if there is any confusion in the postal code just punch m1m1c3
Old     (polarbill)      Join Date: Jun 2003       10-29-2007, 9:13 AM Reply   
Michael,

Sure Power product are a good choice. My company sells them as well. On the ASE link he provided you check out the part# 1314. I believe this would be a better option. Isolators have a couple of drawbacks. First, they cause a voltage drop of .8-1.0 volts. They also only charge the battery that needs the most volts. So lets say the only thing you are running off your house battery is the stereo and amps, you go park in on a beach and listen to the stereo all day. That is going to trash your house battery. When you want to leave and start your boat the only battery getting any charge is the house battery. If you are using your heater, running lights, bilge pump, etc.. that is running off your start battery you are going to trash that battery with no charging from the alternator till its voltage drops below the house battery, which in turn could leave you with no good batteries. The 1314 battery separator is really easy to hook up and gives priority to the starting battery. This means that even if you trash your house battery all day and then are running home, if the starting battery is losing voltage it will charge it back up to full capacity and then switch back to the house battery. I personally would rather have it hooked up this way. I would rather be cruising back to the boat launch with no stereo than being towed back, but blasting music. Another cool thing about the battery separator is it can sense if the starting battery is lower than the house battery and use the house battery to help with the start. As you can see they are about the same price to.

Ken-Next time I am down in Portland I will have to stop by ASE and say hello.
Old     (kenteck)      Join Date: Jan 2005       10-29-2007, 11:46 AM Reply   
brett
yeah do that,
Brent was just there a couple of weeks ago at your place....
Old     (soundbox)      Join Date: Oct 2007       10-29-2007, 5:55 PM Reply   
One thing to keep in mind when using this type of battery isolator is that they are not efficent in transfering power. I think its about 8-10% loss of power in the form on heat, hence the need for such a large heat sink. They are a boaters dream because they are automatic without and switches but will cause your 90amp alternator to be like a 80amp just by putting the isolator in.

Alternative is a perko or a large relay. These will transfer all of your power but are not automatic.

One more thing that is the best of both worlds is a product called powergate. It is the choice of military and high demand applications. They are %100 automatic in isolating the two batteries and are %99.9 efficient. They also offer a combiner that with the flip of a switch can link the batteries/banks being isolated. These are more money than relays, perkos or even the larger isolators but are the best of every world. They are offered in multiple amperage ratings for every application.

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Link:

www.perfectswitch.com
Old     (absoluteboarder)      Join Date: Aug 2002       10-29-2007, 6:20 PM Reply   
..........oh man!.....thought I had it all figured out!....but thanks for all the input guys.
Old     (soundbox)      Join Date: Oct 2007       10-29-2007, 8:19 PM Reply   
Sure, I think we are all here to give and take information. Any questions I can answer I will.

This is an interesting subject among boaters and I don't think that there is one way that is the "norm". Some people are Perko do get a bad wrap when the the light duty perkos are used in high current demand set ups but they seem to be the best bang for your buck. Granted Perkos are a hassle to remember but it becomes habit like locking your car doors or pulling the rope in after at the end of every session. If you have a few extra bucks to burn then I would recommend the power gate.

One other thing to keep in mind is that when doing this to make sure that your primary battery is wired ONLY to the IGN and Starter. If you keep things like the radio, area illumination, bilge pumps, ballast pumps, or anything else wired up it is not as effective. Primary should be focused on as the STARTING battery.
Old     (absoluteboarder)      Join Date: Aug 2002       10-30-2007, 5:22 AM Reply   
...yea that was what I had in mind..one dedicated starting battery and another for everything else. Now the real question that I havn't got an answer for is....it seems like an isolator is the simplest way to do things....but is the voltage drop really that much of an issue...I am only running one 4 channel amp ,1sub,2 tower sp. and 6 cockpit sp. I will probably never sit more than 2 hours before starting up again.
Old     (olskooltige)      Join Date: Mar 2007       10-30-2007, 6:52 AM Reply   
Go with a combiner tied to the ignition switch. It is always charging both batteries when the engine is running. It is always isolated when the key is off. It is always combining cranking amps when the key is on/starting. You don't have to remember anything. They are pretty reliable and not expensive. Power gates are nice in mission critical (READ: Damn expensive and unecessary) applications. Isolators are nice, but you have to add a switch to get the full functionality of it (combining the batteries). In your boat and in about 90% of car audio installs (where these are usually used) a good combiner is the ticket.

http://stingerelectronics.com/prodDetail.asp?strID=340

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Old     (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       10-30-2007, 7:42 AM Reply   
I installed a Blue Sea's ACR in the family pontoon boat. Super easy install.
http://bluesea.com/category/2/products/7610
Its a battery isolater/combiner. It does what all heavy duty solonoids do like the stinger pictured above plus its a battery combiner. IMO this one product does what a traditional Perko switch does and the heavy duty soloniod does so you dont need either one.
Old     (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       10-30-2007, 7:45 AM Reply   
Here is a Pick of the ACR mounted on the back wall of the engine bay.
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Old     (olskooltige)      Join Date: Mar 2007       10-31-2007, 1:27 PM Reply   
Yeah I saw those online, but never could find a local retailer. I ended up going with the next logical choice of the stinger above. Those blue sea ACRs are nice and cheap too. Save some money and use some sense.
Old     (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       10-31-2007, 4:03 PM Reply   
The thing that's "Nicer" about The Blue Sea's ACR is that not only does it switch or isolate your battery like the Stinger SP200 does. It keeps the batterys split untill your starting battery is up over 13.7 volts and then it links them.

Eample: You have 2 batteys 1 for starting 1 for accesorys like your stereo. You turn your boat off. And you starting battey is now Isolated away from your starting battery. You run your system for as long as you like and then when you start up the ACR keeps the stereo battery's draw/current away from the starting battery untill your starting battery is fully charged and then it automaticly links your stereo battery and your starting battery. Its like having a little man inside a perko switch linking and un linking your batterys when the the time /voltage is right. Anther great thing it requires no other wires becides the positive batterys leed's. The Stinger needs Power Ground and Key.
Old     (soundbox)      Join Date: Oct 2007       11-01-2007, 8:31 PM Reply   
Okay.. Back from SEMA and I think I found what we have been waiting for to solve this isolator, combiner, solenoid dilemma.

Grant- Blue Sea product looks great but is there still a need for an on / off switch to combine the batteries?

Upload

I was able to speak to the designer of a new product at SEMA called "StartNow". It seems to be similar to the Blue Seas product just minus the need for the switch. If there is a short version of how it works it is as follows. Both batteries are charged when the motor is running. When the motor is off the reserve battery is instantly taken out of the loop. When restarting the motor the StartNow brings the reserve battery back into the loop if it is needed to start the motor. Once the motor is running both batteries are then being charged again. Also for us high current and upgraded alternator guys I was told that we can push up to 280 amps of current into this little 1 pound wonder. Build quality was great and I was told a retail of aprox. $100

More Info:
http://www.charlesindustries.com/marine_manual/StartNow%20QAs.pdf
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Old     (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       11-01-2007, 10:27 PM Reply   
The ACR requires No switch. It works much the Same as the Start Now product. I think th ACR was $60 or $80
Old     (snwmot)      Join Date: Sep 2006       11-01-2007, 10:38 PM Reply   
dude u can buy one of the sick one's from malibu for like under 50 bucks there simple too.
Old     (olskooltige)      Join Date: Mar 2007       11-02-2007, 6:20 AM Reply   
That's just a combiner in a different shaped box. What you typed is how they all work. Find one local and install it.
Old     (migitty)      Join Date: Aug 2001       11-02-2007, 12:03 PM Reply   
Check out www.hellroaring.com

And here is why (virtually no voltage drop).

http://www.hellroaring.com/nodiode.php

Just fyi, I've had one in my boat for years and it has been flawless.

Just my .$02. I have nothing to gain by promoting these guys.

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