Starter, Alternator, Solenoid, or Battery!? Help!

Boat: 1999 MasterCraft ProStar 205

History: 200 hours, just installed Perfect Pass.

Problem: Boat cranks once slowly, then clicks multiple times.

Background: Put boat in water, and cranked engine. Turned over twice slowly, then started. I figured the battery had just lost some power during storage and would charge up as we ran it during the day. Operated engine for 2 hours at different RPM's, noticed voltage reading 12-13 volts at gauge. Turned off boat for 2 minutes, and attempted to start again. Turned over once,and then clicked multiple times -- not starting, repeated with the clicking when tried again. Voltage gauge still was reading 12-13 volts.

Solution: Test and diagnosis problem. Decide which part needs replacing and replace, without spending a fortune to leave boat at dealer. Help!

Thanks,
Pete

Also, will be doing the solenoid test that Peter C. suggested on previos post. Will also be testing actual battery volts with multi-meter. What else?

Thanks,
Pete

Check your starter relay. Mine has a fuse breaker button coming out so you can reset it (1990 Sport Nautique - PCM 351 Ford). The relay went out and it did almost the exact thing you described. You can test it by putting the key in the ON position and taking a screwdriver and bridging the 2 posts. It will bypass the relay and start if that's your problem. Then the part was only like 25 bucks for me. Just make sure you air out the engine compartment and probably run your blower before and during as it will spark some....

Also.....you can call up skidim www.skidim.com and describe your problem and they are very helpful. If they help you figure it out then you can just get the part right then and it'll be to your house shortly.

Not sure that I am following what you are saying:

"Boat cranks once slowly, then clicks multiple times"

That sounds like a dead battery. It is entirely possible, indeed likely that the battery is past its useful life and needs to be replaced.

Then you said: "not starting, repeated with the clicking when tried again. Voltage gauge still was reading 12-13 volts."

I would expect the voltage to be about 13.5 volts when the engine was running at 1500 RPM or above. 13.0 volts would be a good voltage at idle. On a good, strong battery I would expect about 11 volts when you were cranking the engine.

So what was the conditions when you measured your 12-13 volts?

If the volt meter drops below 10 volts when trying to start then it is another indication that the battery is dead (or it could be a bad connection at the battery cables). If you want to be sure, get a multi-meter and measure the battery voltage right on the battery posts when you crank.

If you battery is more than three years old I would just replace it, if it isn't the problem now it will be soon.

Rod

I had this same issue once. I swore it was the battery. But it wasn't. I had to replace the starter. I mean, this is EXACTLY what happened to me. The starter just corroded from moisture and turned over slowly because the corrosion was holding it tight. The clicking you are hearing is the solenoid throwing out the gear, but the motor may not be turning from corrosion.

If it was a relay, than the starter would never turn over. Relays either work or they don't. There is no in between.

They have Marine starters down here in St. Petersburg, FL for $49. Might be wise to have it shipped from here, because Skidim is going to be over $150.

Great advice everyone, thanks! To clarify for you, Rod: the motor turns over once, and then clicking from the starter area sounded. When tried again, just clicking and the motor wouldn't even turn. The 12-13 volts was noticed when the motor was running idle AND at high RPM's (wasn't fluxuating much), and was at about 11 when the boat was off after trying to re-start.

This is the 5th year on the battery, so it may be time to replace. I'll measure from the posts when I crank tonight and see what voltage my multi-meter tells me. Should I measure anywhere else? Thanks again, and keep the great tips coming!

Thanks,
Pete

make shure all your connections are really really tight. with no corosion anywhere.

I just had a similar problem. It was the battery.

It just clicked or turned slightly, then clicked. While we were running around the lake it operated OK, but not great. Once warm, the engine would crank up, but it was a slow crank then start.

I replaced the battery (that was over 5 years old) and boom, starts perfect every time. I didn't even notice how slow it was cranking until I put in the new battery.

I would replace the battery first. It's 5 years old so it's not going to have much life left even if it's not completely gone anyway. You will be replacing it soon enough in any case, so just do it now.

"If it was a relay, than the starter would never turn over. Relays either work or they don't. There is no in between. "

Actually, his symptoms were very similar to mine when my relay went out. It was working fine. Then I turned the key and no go. Then I'd turn the key and it started fine. Then next time it took a couple more tries to turn it over and then it worked. Then the 3rd time it clicked a couple times and then nothing. Don't ask me why...but that's what happened.

Levi, that is strange. When I had hydraulics on my truck I was running 4 starter relays to each pump and if one went out, it was out. There was no question about it.

I stand corrected.

The tips are awesome, thanks. Is it be safe to assume that, most likely this isn't an alternator problem? Are there posts someplace on the alternator that I could check with my multi-meter for voltage output?

I will replace the battery as well. Any reccomendations on make or model?

Thanks,
Pete

Levi, same thing happened to me... i would turn the key and every 3rd or 4th turn the motor would start. I replaced the starter relay and it fixed the problem. Intermittent electrical problems are the worst problems because they are hard to duplicate!!!

I put in a blue top (can't remember the brand right now), but it's the high end of the marine batteries. I think the manufacturer starts with an "I". Anyway, it's a completely sealed unit that you can mount in any orientation. Has an 18 month free replacement warranty.

You can take your battery out and take to AutoZone (or other parts store). They can load test your battery and tell you if it good or not.

Craig..you had hydraulics? saweeeet! Only if you could get your Escalade and SANTE to both sit on the ground at the same time when you pulled in to your parking space. Now that would be ball'n.

Pete:

All the symtoms you describe point to a battery that is past its service life. A battery voltage of 11 volts with little or no load indicates a dead battery. Most batteries of this type are good for three to four years, if yours is 5 years old then there is no question.

Rod,

I think you hit the nail on the head. I'm heading out to the lake tommorrow, with the new battery, to test the alternator just to be safe. Thanks for your input.

This question is in another post, but I'm buying an Optima Blue Top, but don't know if I need their "Starting" or one of their "Deep Cycles". Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Pete

Pete, you need a cranking batt b/c of the high cranking amps it offers. Deep cycle will be good for trolling motors.....less power for a long distance. I used to use deep cycle but cranking is the one I changed to.....my interstate cranking has 800 cca. That'll do the trick for you

The one I bought is an Optima blue top and I got it at Autozone.