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Go Back   WakeWorld > >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive > Archive through August 06, 2007

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Old     (wstr01)      Join Date: Feb 2001       07-27-2007, 4:42 PM Reply   
As I was pulling a batch of kids last weekend I noticed the carpet around my feet was getting wet. Having one of those soft ice chests behind the drivers seat, I thought it had sprung a leak from the wifie sitting on it (the seats were stuffed with kids) so I didn't think anything of it.

A little later the water was spreading and now was getting hot. Sure enough the heater core had begun to leak. So now I'm thinking there goes another $400 to $500 for a new one.

I took it out of the boat (easy chore) and took the core out of the housing. On the end of the core it said "Heater Craft" so I looked them up on the net and found I could get another core and housing for $123. Ordered on Tuesday, showed up today. You cannot beat that.

I'm good for another 7 years.

Just a little info for everyone just in case.
Old     (chas)      Join Date: Feb 2002       07-27-2007, 5:12 PM Reply   
You could have got the same heater core at an auto parts store for around $40. Replaced mine a couple years ago, took in to Knowel's and they cross checked it and had the new one in three hours later.
Old     (wstr01)      Join Date: Feb 2001       07-27-2007, 7:00 PM Reply   
Well there ya go....................
Old    alanp            07-27-2007, 11:16 PM Reply   
and the lesson here? always come to wakeworld to get opinions. someone has probably already done what you want to do
Old     (jlembas)      Join Date: Apr 2002       07-28-2007, 7:42 AM Reply   
If you want to prevent this from happening again, I have found one of the causes (at least in my case).

Most of the failed heater cores I have seen are caused by the hose nipple cracking at the base of the heater core. When the factory installs these things they usually stuff the heater up under the dash somewhere and the hoses are usually kinked or under strain.

I straightened the hoses coming off the heater core and fastened them to the wall. This takes the pressure off the weak hose nipples on the heater core. It also eliminates the stress from hitting rollers or double-ups.
Old     (peter_c)      Join Date: Sep 2001       07-28-2007, 11:55 AM Reply   
When my heater core cracked at the fittings, like mentioned above, I simply resoldered them. FREE! Suppose it helps having the tools/materials needed (Torch and solder). I have repaired more than a few radiators the same way. Even the core can be repaired sometimes. Radiator shops can often get the cores even cheaper. Every big city has a major radiator supply center, where it will be in stock.

Also as mentioned above how the lines are routed is extremely important to longevity. Freezing is a no no too.
Old     (ccraftskierfan)      Join Date: Mar 2004       07-28-2007, 12:04 PM Reply   
Mine did the same thing first time out this season. I've bypassed the heater for now with a garden hose connector.

I took the heater out and the core looked distorted on the edge, must have frozen. I had mine recored at a local radiator shop for 50.00, Heatercraft's are way too expensive. Apparently the core is the same as one's used on construction equipment with heated cabs.

I made the mistake of just blowing out the core for winterizing and will add antifreeze next time.

(Message edited by ccraftskierfan on July 28, 2007)
Old     (greatdane)      Join Date: Feb 2001       07-28-2007, 12:06 PM Reply   
The delta cuts through my heaters every two or three years so I decided to bypass my heater and forget that option. I hardly used it anyway.
Old     (peter_c)      Join Date: Sep 2001       07-28-2007, 12:51 PM Reply   
Dane, mine lasted for 10 years and who knows how much longer after I sold the boat. My boat was typically used and stored at the Delta.

Of course Wes' blew out 5 weeks ago to the day. Guess how I know??

I believe it is just a Ford heater core.
Old     (greatdane)      Join Date: Feb 2001       07-28-2007, 1:18 PM Reply   
I think mine suffers because it goes from water to the lift without a tow (up/dn hills; over bumps). So, the delta water never drains from the heater and heater lines. Just my guess on how I went through 2 heaters in 4 years. If I wanted a heater, I would need to find a way to flush/drain the boat without a tow.
Old     (chas)      Join Date: Feb 2002       07-28-2007, 2:20 PM Reply   
I think mine was the same as in a late model Ford Ranger
Old     (sam8)      Join Date: Dec 2004       07-28-2007, 2:45 PM Reply   
I don't know how these things are laid out, but if they are like a car heater, it sounds to me like somebody needs to come up with a couple of valves to turn the water off at the pressure and return side of that core, and then a drain valve inside the loop.
If ya spring a leak, shut the water off on both ends and ramble on. At the end of the day, drain it to prevent crud from forming. Honestly, I'd leave it drained and closed util it got cold enough to need it.
Of course, being an old fart, if it every got cold enough to need a heater, I'd probably not be on the lake in the first place.
Old     (wstr01)      Join Date: Feb 2001       07-29-2007, 6:31 AM Reply   
The core on the opposite side of the fittings was leaking on mine.

I thought about getting it repaired but thought it may just start leaking again somewhere else so I just got the new one.

Next time it's off to the parts store.

Having a heater is the only way the wifie is giving me an early morning pull at Lake Powell in October. Money well spent.

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