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Go Back   WakeWorld > >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive > Archive through February 21, 2008

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Old     (setter23lsv)      Join Date: Jan 2008       01-15-2008, 10:22 PM Reply   
So been trying to decide on what to do amp wise with my system. Trying to decide how to run my tower speakers (2) Kicker KB6000's and 4 polk inside boat speakers, The kicker tower speakers are rated at 75rms @ 4ohms, but Monster as well as other here have stated best with 100rms heading to them. My 4 cabin speakers are rated at 70watts rms @ 4ohms as well.

Am trying to decide if I should just go with a Kicker 850.4 and run the 4 boat speakers off the front 2 and the 2 tower speakers off the rear or if I should just get 2 dedicated amps to each say a 650.4 for the cabins and a zx 350.2 for the towers. There is already a 650 pushing the cabins, I have to buy an amp regardless so just trying to decide on what to do, but If I went with a dedicated 3rd amp I may have to do some "remodeling" as there isn't room.

I figure I can use the fade to make the tower speakers run and the boats to not or vise versa with the single amp and always sell the 650 that is in there. What would you all recommend? Any pros/cons either way? think the single amp would run too hot?

(Message edited by setter23lsv on January 15, 2008)
Old     (setter23lsv)      Join Date: Jan 2008       01-15-2008, 10:39 PM Reply   
Kind of just popped in my head.....I could possibly put (2) 2 channel amps in there due to size kicker ZX 350.2 the run the tower speakers off one and the 4 boats off the other.

Specs on the ZX.350.2
Max Power: 750 Watts
RMS Power: 110 Watts x 2 @ 4 Ohm
RMS Power : 175 Watts x 2 @ 2 Ohm
RMS Power : 350 Watts x 1 @ 4 Ohm

Number Of Channels: 2
Kicker EQ boost up to 18db 20hz - 200khz
Frequency response 250mv - 10v input
Sensitivity >95db or better signal to noise ratio
Selectable low pass crossover
Subsonic filter @ 25 hz 12 db per octave
12 DB per octave 50 – 200hz adjustable crossover
13 1/2"L x 2.1/8"H x 9 -5/8 "W

specs on 650.4
RMS Power Ratings:
120 watts x 4 chan. @ 4 ohms
170 watts x 4 chan. @ 2 ohms
325 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohms Bridged
Peak Power Ratings:
240 watts x 4 chan. @ 4 ohms
340 watts x 4 chan. @ 2 ohms
650 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohms Bridged
Input gain control: Low Level (125mV - 5V), High Level (250mV - 10V)
Dimensions: 22.5" L x 10-1/8" W x 2.5" H


specs on 850.4 RMS
175 watts x 4 chan. @ 4 ohms
215 watts x 4 chan. @ 2 ohms
425 watts x 2 chan. @ 4 ohms
Input gain control: Low Level (125mV - 5V), High Level (250mV - 10V)
Old     (cyclonecj)      Join Date: Jul 2001       01-16-2008, 5:26 AM Reply   
Neither set of speakers require tons of power, I would use one amp, either would work fine, I'd probably use the smaller one and save current draw on the system for the sub amp that you didn't mention:-) I'd put a PAC LC1 (or homemade version) in the RCA line going to each pair of channels, at least the tower channel.

If you are going to upgrade the tower speakers later you might consider going to the big amp, but I'd stick with one amp if you can, for the boat and tower, saves a lot of space.
Old     (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       01-16-2008, 5:44 AM Reply   
You stated that you have to buy an Amp anyway, and also mention a dedicated 3rd Amp. Are you looking at adding a sub at some point? What model 650.4 do you have KX or ZX?

Here is what I would do with what you got:
ZX350.2 for the tower speakers plugged up to the REAR fade of the H/U

Keep the 650.4 for the cabin, plugged up to the FRONT fade of the H/U. Run the 4 cabins (2 pairs paralleled) off the 2 chnls of AMP1 of the 650.4, and bridge a sub off the 2 chnls of AMP2 of the 650.4
Old     (setter23lsv)      Join Date: Jan 2008       01-16-2008, 7:33 AM Reply   
The 2 amps I have that came with the boat are a ZX650.4 pushing the cabins and a Mono ZX400.1 pushing my Sub. I left the sub out of the equation because that is staying as is. No need to mess with that in my mind. Sorry for the confusion. So that is why space would be tight.
Psyclone
I didn't even think about that PAC one thing would be a great way to turn down the speakers at your fingertips. MY head unit has 3 dedicated outputs. Front rear and mono(sub). So it is a good unit for a system. So if I go with three amps I could put the amp for the cabins on an acc switch and the amp for the tower speakers on a different acc switch so then I could have one with out the other very easily if needed. Othewise if I went single amp just put thos pac 1 controls on the single amp at the rca inputs and fade that way.

My main concern is that the amps would overheat running either the 4 cabins off the smaller 2 channel or the 4 cabins off the front channels and the 2 tower speakers off the rear channels of a bigger single amp. Also not too big of a stereo guy, but do you loose sound quality at all running the cabins in parallel like that. Would it be better to give each it's own channel from the amp, like a 4 channel source for (1)for each speaker. Sorry for the run of questions just want to make sure I do it right the first time. I believe in taking your time and doing it right and not cheaping out up front. You end up saving time and $$ in the long run by spending a little extra money and time on the front
Old     (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       01-16-2008, 7:50 AM Reply   
They will run warmer @ a 2ohm load, but I dont think you will have a problem with overheating.

Here is another option:

Use the ZX650.4 for the tower speakers, this gives you room for expansion.

Pick up a ZX700.5 for the cabins and sub, and remove the Zx400.1
Old     (xstarrider)      Join Date: Jun 2007       01-16-2008, 1:03 PM Reply   
Hey Setter

I am redoing my system as well. Pretty much same stuff. With amps and what not. After researching on this site Kicker was where I went and always seemed to be offered as decent stuff that won't break the bank I did the 3 amp route. I am just going to build an amprack on the inside of my 2000 X-Star. Seems like it is pretty simple. All I am going to do is peel back the original carpet from the wall, add some material around the existing amp rack that came from the factory, and then recover it with the original carpet. Seems pretty simple if you ask me.

AS for the amps I did the kicker ZX650.4 for cabins, ZX450.2 for the towers and a ZX400.1 for my sub for the versatility. Each one of my amps will be run to an accessory switch on my dash so it can be individually turned on and off. I have a wife and 2 young daughters (1yr and 3yr) that are on the boat more often then just me and my buddies. So they are not into the sub and blasting the cabins while I ride. So I wanted to hear the tunes while I ride but not blow them out as that was the only way the "boss" would approve tower speakers :-). But then when I am out with my buddies it is game on. Also could have faded the stuff like you say, but I like the idea that if the speakers ain't running the amp isn't pulling power. Just my own thing I guess. Good luck with your system. Can't help you with the amp overheating thing as I am not that stereo savvy. Just went with some good advice I got from friends and acquaintances here.
Old     (setter23lsv)      Join Date: Jan 2008       01-16-2008, 8:08 PM Reply   
Thanks guys. I think I like the idea more and more of 3 amps. Kind of like xstarriders logic though I am a single man so I am sure the tunes would be cranking for the ladies HEHEHEHE;)

Was thinking maybe 2 of those smaller amps would fit in there along with that sub amp. Do you think 2 of the ZX350.2 amps would push my system well? Those seem pretty compact and you can get them over on flea bay for a steal. Anything wrong with going with aa factory refurb from an authorized Kicker dealer?
Specs on the ZX.350.2
Max Power: 750 Watts
RMS Power: 110 Watts x 2 @ 4 Ohm
RMS Power : 175 Watts x 2 @ 2 Ohm
RMS Power : 350 Watts x 1 @ 4 Ohm

Number Of Channels: 2
Kicker EQ boost up to 18db 20hz - 200khz
Frequency response 250mv - 10v input
Sensitivity >95db or better signal to noise ratio
Selectable low pass crossover
Subsonic filter @ 25 hz 12 db per octave
12 DB per octave 50 – 200hz adjustable crossover
13 1/2"L x 2.1/8"H x 9 -5/8 "W

1 amp would run the boat speakers. I could show them 2 ohms by wiring 2 speakers off the same terminals per channel and get the 175 per channel for the 4 cabins on one amp. The speakers are rated for 75watts RMS so that should be effecient eh? or you think I am overloading the amp?

Then have the other amp run the tower speakers which are rated at 100watts RMS @ 4ohms. Should be perfect for them.
Just thought with the smaller amps that I could get them all in there.
Old     (05mobiuslsv)      Join Date: Apr 2006       01-16-2008, 8:17 PM Reply   
Why would you buy 2 smaller amps to replace that one 650.4 you have? Why not leave that one in there as TigeMike says and just buy another 350.2? You could use the 350.2 to run your tower speakers now and the 650.4 to run your cabins as it is. Then when you decide the 2 kicker speakers on the tower isn't enough (which shouldn't take long) you'll be able to run the interior off the 350.2 and use the 650.4 for the tower. Just my $.02

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