e.wood surface 3's

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYEMwySLE7I

Pawolina alaia's. Check the video around 5:40 in, where Rastanovich spins 3 surface 3's in a row. Those things are just lumber, right? Also, he's riding in the middle of the "board" (pun intended )

No fins, no rocker...just a shaped nose and rails.

Someone stop me, PLEASE! I can feel he pull to run by Home Depot!!!!

Very cool Jeff -- thanks for posting this up. Those kids are riping. You'll have to have Tom design a board for James. If James can get some decent air on it...
I will not be surprised to see you start a Paulownia wood grove in the backyard.

Now that I think of it... Larry Mann's Trickboardz have much of this concept going on. He's been experimenting with finless thin boards for some time now. From what I've seen, they spin like crazy.

primitive

Hey Smed, that's funny. Hi honey, I'm home - I'm going out in the back and plant these 110 saplings.

Yeah, Larry has played with super thin boards with concave for ages. I've wanted to thin a board out, swap the 3/4" rail boxes out and use 1/2" trailer futures boxes and shave the fin base...more to think on.

Jeff ,
i was thinking of the same thing , 1/2 boxes weigh i think 5 to 7 grams lighter , shave and notch

Hey Mark, yeah, I think it's doable. Take the standard rail fins and shave the bottom. I don't have to change the notch, it's just the base depth. A few passes on a grinder and they'll fit a trailer box.

Yeah, you can shave a bit of weight, but I am still intrigued by the thickness. We gain stiffness by thickness of the board, or like some of the skimmers that use a HD foam and 3 layers of 6 oz - or Tex which becomes a 9 oz fabric and the required increase in resin to gain stiffness.

Messing with that 1.7 oz Kevlar and the "make-me-want-to-stab-my-eyes-out" Zylon or like you the 3 pound EPS, maybe we can start thnning the boards out by using alternative core and lamination materials. Still have the advantages of fin depth/cant/toe and also a thin flat core, while being 1/2 the weight.

my next ones will be 3 lb with 10oz deck and 6oz bottom s glass with 4oz fin patch and 3/4 boxes. if i feel that the glass wont pressure dent then i will try the .5 boxes . i just dont want to modify 50 bux worth of fins to find the right ones(scim) lol. and i will only hot coat the bottom and the rails to save 6+oz of epoxy

Are you using a single layer of 10oz for the deck or a 6/4 combination?

I hear you on mangling fins, they are so expensive.

6/4 BFG , well after the first 6 sets of demo fins that are modified then you just mod the ones you like. Damb i will hate having 2 sets of the same fins. 3.5,4.0,4.25.4.5.scim,v2X2

(Message edited by lakeside5_10 on January 07, 2009)

I'll send you a demo board in a couple of months to try out what 09 model do you want to test , now i have moved the widepoint up 2" from the last aku shapes you saw. so the wide point is 2" back past the midpoint , i had set them back 4" back to start.

How fun! Thanks so much. I'm glad that James rides well, it gives ME the opportunity to ride a bunch of different boards.

I was revisiting the Chase Hazen signature model and Johnny Stieg's signature model. Both of those boards push the wide point back significantly. I think, theoretically, you gain some additional drive by keeping the wide point back...in essence straightening the outline. In this picture of Chase, which is years old at this point, you can see the wide point is just in front of the fins.



In the picture of James, Eric Roush moved the wide point well back and then the first set of wings are parallel to each other. Then the last wing curves back rapdidly.




Let me go back and look at the names of the boards and I'll let you know. Thanks again Mark.

i also have moved the width in , i have two 4.8 models in 20" one with diamond tail another in bat. and a 4.8 bat in 22" then the 5.4 in 22".
i will post new board pics tomm.

looks like my very old iron board

Thanks Mark, I'll look for the pictures.

Hey Petr,

Doesn't it? Rode sweet though.

Grinding fins is fun stuff.

Step 1


Step 2


Step 3


If you guys want to use the 1/2 boxes, you could always get the 1/2in quad rears and foil out the other side....

Did you really just suggest this Matt?

"If you guys want to use the 1/2 boxes, you could always get the 1/2in quad rears and foil out the other side.... "

Four days later, Jeff and Mark have almost completed foiling the inside of one fin...

No, I just want to take a Scimitar or a 3/2/1 and hack the bottom of the base off. This isn't a great picture, but the fin in the photo is a trailer, the only difference in the base is the "plastic" that I created with the red. Hit it with a grinder or bandsaw, and the rail fins will fit an "X" box (sorry I have been DYING to use that reference ).

Then, the tail a foot up can be what, 9/16" thick?

Ha ha! Just messing with ya! That would be funny... start with some 40 or 60 grit on a hard block, then go to 80, 100, 220 on a soft pad... I'll check back with you next month to see your progress....

Only problem with the "X" box is that you won't get the 6deg cant that is in the regular boxes... or you've already solved that?

Or...... for a really loose board, just put two 1/2in 325 center trailers as a twin set up. loosey goosey...

So not kidding Matt, it would take ages. I want to trim the Scmitars down, 4.5 in fins in a 9/16 thick board. I have to shim the inside of the guide plate to deal with my concave, a little extra would resolve any cant issues, I do believe.

shim shim shim sherrieeee....

what about just doing some glass ons? then you can go as thin as you'd like, no?

LOL is that the rfrain from Mary Poppins? Chim Chimeny, Chim Chimeny, Chim Chim Cherriee They don't make movies like that anymore!

Yeah glass on's would be an option. I wonder how long they'd last before I broke them? I really like the high-end futures fins, though. I'd hate to try and foil a Scimitar knock-off.