LTR Water Pump

(hunter660) · (hunter660) **Join Date: Aug 2007** 07-17-2010, 6:16 PM

I replaced the water pump on my LTR last year do to it leaking. Now my new pump is squealing. I pulled the belt and it is just the idler. Does the whole pump need to be replaced? Can I swap out the bearings? WD40? Duct Tape?

Thanks, I need to get back on the water.

(pcolajosh) · (pcolajosh) **Join Date: May 2007** 07-19-2010, 8:51 AM

Are you talking about the raw water impeller pump assembly or the water recirculation pump for the engine? Or are you talking about the idler pulley that tensions the belt?

While most pumps can be rebuilt, it's often easier to just replace the pump. For example, the recirculation pump I replaced only cost $90.

(hunter660) · (hunter660) **Join Date: Aug 2007** 07-19-2010, 8:54 AM

recirculation pump

I took it off and the impeller is also cracked. I was told there is a 1 year waranty and I should have one on my front porch Wednesday. Any idea why I have gone through 2 in two years?

(imscarlet) · (imscarlet) **Join Date: Mar 2008** 07-19-2010, 1:46 PM

Is it a marine or automotive one? Marine ones should have a brass impeller that don't usually crack

(hunter660) · (hunter660) **Join Date: Aug 2007** 07-19-2010, 1:47 PM

??? It came from Mastercraft.

(pcolajosh) · (pcolajosh) **Join Date: May 2007** 07-19-2010, 5:33 PM

Good to hear that you're covered with some warranty action. As far as quick failure, I don't know. Maybe you sucked up some sand in the intake and it circulated through to the impeller blades of the recirc pump? Kind of a stretch, but all I can come up with. How about posting a pic of the impeller that cracked.

Ian, on the LTR motors, the recirc pump is not like an automotive one. They're not interchangeable at all. The marine one is a sealed unit and the automotive water pump for a chevy 350 uses the block as a sealing/water routing surface.

(hunter660) · (hunter660) **Join Date: Aug 2007** 07-19-2010, 6:40 PM

(hunter660) · (hunter660) **Join Date: Aug 2007** 08-02-2010, 11:27 AM

Looks like this isn't the end of my troubles. I installed the new pump and the problem was solved, or so I thought. After the first trip back on the water I noticed the belt had worked its way one grove toward the rear of the boat. No big deal I thought, I just didn't get it on all the pulleys correctly the first time. I put it back on correctly this time. After the next trip to the lake I looked at it and it is now a 1/3 of the way off and the belt is shredding. What is going on? I never had this problem before. Also, there is still a noise from the engine. I have a new pump, alt was replaced last year, and the tensioner turn smoothly and free by hand with not noticeable play in it.

(cwb4me) · (cwb4me) **Join Date: Apr 2010** 08-02-2010, 11:55 AM

check crankshaft end play and all pulley alignment or something is loose.

(Jeff) · (Jeff) **Join Date: May 2010** 08-04-2010, 7:13 AM

Early LTRs are known for their weak alternator brackets. They crack and then allow the alternator to move the belt out. There was a recall on it but it has since expired I think.

So, inspect that bracket closely.

(hunter660) · (hunter660) **Join Date: Aug 2007** 08-04-2010, 7:16 AM

Thanks. I found out some information yesterday. The upgraded alternator brackets are still free, but my dealer didn't have them in stock. There is an upgraded water pump pulley that is not free, but my dealer had it in stock and is headed my way. I'll update this post as I learn more.

(crowem87) · (crowem87) **Join Date: Nov 2005** 08-04-2010, 9:58 AM

Jon, You say the alternator brackets are still free? Please let me know about this, and if there is any way you could PM me some documentation of this I would truly appreciate it. Our bracket went bad, we spent years trying to figure out what it was and went through almost 6+ alternators before someone realized it was the bracket. I think we also paid for the part as well and i know it was not cheap. ughghhga