Switches for amps?

So I know some folks are running switches to turn certain amps on and off to conserve some battery juice. I was thinking about the different ways to do this but figured I should ask to see how everyone else is doing it if there is an industry standard for this. Technically, I can turn certain amps on /off now by pulling fuses from my distribution block but I think we all know that's just not going to cut it.

If anyone would like to give me advise for my specific set-up, there are several things that would probably be good to know. Here's what I'm working with:

1. 4 amps with a supposed total output of 1400 watts(on paper). mono for sub, 4ch. for cabin, and 2-2ch.s for tower speakers.

2. All amps, batteries, and head unit are on port side of boat in cabinet and under seat. (Supra Sunsport)

3. Fused power wire from battery to 1-in/4-out fused distribution block to each amp

4. Remote wire runs from head unit to WS420(under steering wheel) then 3 remote wires follow each RCA from there to each individual amp. This is 10 feet each wire, each way. (only done this way because of some RCA's I bought that had a remote wire built in to them so it looks cleaner. I was later told that was not the intended use for that extra wire but hey, it works...)

5. Of course I want the switches for these to be at the driver console.



I figure there are two options for where to switch the power. Either in the actual power wire or in the remote wires between the WS420 and the amps. Of these two options, the remote wire certainly sounds better. Though I believe I have read somewhere before that there can be a problem with putting switches directly in remote lines...? It also seems that I have read somewhere that relays should be used in this process. So help me out, how is it really done?

Thanks in advance.

I ran switches to turn each amp on and off. I started by wiring the remote wire from the head unti through a relay so I was not drawing too much current. The relay powers a 12 volt source that acts as remote wire for 3 amps, powers 5 LED strips and 3 cross flow fans.

I used an bosch type automotive relay and used diodes to prevent any transient spikes when the relay closed after that power was shut off.

I split the output wire from the relay and ran it to seperate push button switches and then routed wires to the individual components. Makes for a lot of wires, but I wanted the control.

I find that most of the time when we are on the hook, I have th tower speakers on and the boat speakers off. The sub is often off when we are floating as well, especially if we are all in the water.

Damn! That is legit, nice work!

Damn. Nice.

James, very nice work. I actually saw pics of your set-up a while back and that's what got me wanting to add the switches. Although I'm not going to do it anywhere near as nice as that set-up, I do want the control.

So if I have enough voltage as it sits right now through all the remote wires to make amps function properly, is there any problem with just simply adding in-line switches on each line? I don't see why not? That would certainly be easy and convenient enough.

Originally Posted by whelchel86

James, very nice work. I actually saw pics of your set-up a while back and that's what got me wanting to add the switches. Although I'm not going to do it anywhere near as nice as that set-up, I do want the control.

So if I have enough voltage as it sits right now through all the remote wires to make amps function properly, is there any problem with just simply adding in-line switches on each line? I don't see why not? That would certainly be easy and convenient enough.

Using the relay allowed me to add inline switches without worry. I wouldn't do it on a single remote wire straight from the deck. Put in a relay and all is good.