a little help please, ly6 getting hot

bought another x80 a 2008 with twin ly6 6.0s 400hp each, so the boat gets delivered late friday night, at the crack of dawn i was on the lake sat. when i let the boat sit and idle for more than a few min. they start getting warm as long as I'm moving or over 1500 rpms they stay nice and cool. so yesterday i replace both impellers, still no change. i did a little research on the old inter web and it appears to be a pretty big prob with the ly6. and the fix it to re route some hoses. the problem is i can't find anywhere where they say exactly what hoses. any help would be awesome

Boat

check your transmission cooler screen too - might be some blockage.

nice 80 btw

I have no answer for you and I know this is a bit off topic but what are your plans for stereo? Your last one was huge!!


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My fathers boat had this issue and it was related to blockage/ restriction in the stystem. I'd check for a partial blockage somewhere.

trans screen is a possibility that i need to look at, but from the stuff I'm reading thats not the problem.


for the stereo i plan on running 6 rev10s on the tower, stock in boats jl 7.7s and 3 or 4 jl 13w7s for the subs. with a wet sounds 420sq and a apple airport express for a wireless connection to my 420. 12 golf cart batteries and 2 80amp on board chargers.

i gotta get this running problem figured out first before i send her off for surgery.

oh and thanks guys pretty proud of it, it was actually mastercrafts cover boat for 2008. if you google 2008 mastercraft x80 its the red one with brown interior.

How about changing out the thermostats for ones that open and close at a lower temperature???

Good looking boat and Im also stoked to see the install!

Are you able to tell me if its closed cooled (heat exchanger) or RAW cooled also can you PM me the serial numbers if you don't want to publish them on here

I'd check the cooler screen for sure, especially if there was any damage to the impellers. Hook a shop vac up to them to suck it clean.

its a RAW water system

id bet money its some kind of volume or pressure problem with the size of the hoses they are using or the way they have them run for circulation. i just don't see something really being stopped up or a t stat sticking. i guess it could be one or the other but all i have to do is bump the throttle up about 500 rpms and it stays cool

call Jeff at TX MC/MB it has something to do with the raw water intake hose either too long or too short I don't remember which

Thanks, I figured it was going to be something like that, my bet is to long

IIRC Indmar had a service bulletin on that issue

This is for newer model years - might be relevant.

INDMAR - SERVICE BULLETIN
Service Bulletin: SB2012-3IN
Date: June 13, 2013
Subject: Required Water Flow Change 2012 and 2013 Model 6.0L (L96) and 6.2L (LS3) Engines
Units Affected: 2012 and 2013 Model L96 (6.0L) and LS3 (6.2L) engines with Tube in Tube Exhaust Manifolds and 7 Digit Serial Numbers Before Serial Number 2249300
There have been some reports of these exhaust manifolds and hoses exceeding recommended temperature. Indmar has identified an approach to resolve this issue. The first step is to change the thermostat housing and reroute the water flow through the cooling system.
Indmar Has developed cooling system modification kits for these engines. The kits are as follows:
6.0L (L96) Engines with V-drive Transmissions P/N 495181V
6.0L (L96) Engines with In-Line Transmissions P/N 495181I
6.2L (LS3) Engines with V-drive Transmissions P/N 495182V
6.2L (LS3) Engines with In-Line Transmissions P/N 495182I
What You, The Dealer Should Do:
1. Modify all of the units that you have in your inventory prior to delivering the boat to the end user/consumer.
2. If a boat has been retail delivered, immediately contact the affected customers to whom you have sold boats and have them bring their boat in for modification.
Warranty Claim Process for SB2012-3
Flat Rate Allowance 1.5 hr
System Code 527
Failure Code 042
Include photo verification as directed in the work instructions and the Serial Numbers of engines you have modified per SB2012-3 and on the attached warranty claim and send them to warranty@indmar.com for processing.

Contact Indmar for Instructions on the plumbing modifications.
Indmar Products
5400 Old Millington Rd.
Millington, TN 38053
Phone 901-353-9930
Fax 901-358-4292

Call Indmar and explain your symptoms. They will know exactly what you need. We had a similar problem with 2007 MCX. Indmar send us a re-plumb kit...

just got off the phone with them, not the friendliest people, told me they routed some hoses incorrectly and i need a re route kit that they couldn't sell me. time to find a couple of those kits

thanks everyone for your help

Robby

Wow you got a 100K boat and indmar treated you like crap. Thats awesome!!! They screw up and some how your an ahole. Love that. Maybe give Texas Mastercraft a call. They are a HUGE dealer for them might be able to help you.

Wow that sure isn't very helpful. "Here is the fix to our mistake but we can't supply you the fix". Probably the type of reason why MC went to Ilmor.

well I've called a few different mastercrafts, all of them give me different answers. some say raw water re route is the solution, others say it needs a thermostat housing update, and the last one said that the temp sensors are screwed into the wrong ports on the heads and reading some air pockets will idling.

What temp do you consider "getting warm"?

anything above 200-220

Geez that's HOT...

What condition were the impellers? Breaking up? Missing pcs?

old impellers looked really good, a little soft but wasn't missing any pieces

I've never let it get hot enough to sound any bells or whistles

I would verify that you have the correct tstats...maybe they've been changed ...do you know what temp stats are supposed to be in there?

160. And it will run 160 all day as long as its not idling

I will try and explain the cooling system in as layman terms as possible, the 6.0l engine was designed to be more emission clean then the older 5.7l, it was set up to get hotter faster and stay hot , the thermstat housing is mounted on the water pump and is a special design that has a disc at the tale end , if you pull out the thermstat you will see an 1.125 hole feeding water to the back side of the pump, also next to the thermstat housing is a loop with hose feeding that same area of the pump this was where the heater hooked up if so equiped, the thermstat when cold started flows coolant back to the pump and through the motor instead of exhausting that water which in turn brings the engine up to temperture quicker, once up to temperature the stat starts to open and restricks the back feed to the pump and flows more hot water out of the engine, howerver at slow RPM it doesnt flow enough out , the fix is to remove the stat and block off the 1.125 feed hole and install a 160 thermstat from a 5.7l engine , this will make a big difference in the running of the engine, hope this answer your question.

Originally Posted by Elliottsx80

anything above 200-220

Smell anything when you think its that temp? Can you touch the top of exh manifolds? The reason I ask is because I doubt they are even over heating, 08 ly6s had some issues with temp sensor location being on cyl#1 instead of #8 getting an air pocket and "thinking" its running hot. Digital temp gun isn't a bad tool to have in your hand either.

Your the second person I've heard that from today capt. Starting to think that's my prob. The boat gets hot to fast like its blockage, but I'm smart enough to know if it's blockage than it would more than likely be worse under a load and it isn't. Think I'm going to look at the temp. Sensors first

Originally Posted by Elliottsx80

Your the second person I've heard that from today capt. Starting to think that's my prob. The boat gets hot to fast like its blockage, but I'm smart enough to know if it's blockage than it would more than likely be worse under a load and it isn't. Think I'm going to look at the temp. Sensors first

Yes sir you are correct, obviously you are getting enough water flow if under load it will stay at 160 but once at idle that air pocket is created where the temp sensor is located. Check cyl#1 on both engines and if you see a sensor with I believe a yellow/black tracer than I would relocate to cyl#8. Also crank it up and just touch the manifolds to verify overheat is even happening.